When we went up there in December, for the first time in a while, I didn't think it was going to be the day. He's always struggled the first couple of times that he's got on the route as it takes two or three goes to get dialled into the moves. Although he looked a bit shaky, he got it first go, did the top a couple more times, then lowered off and said, 'Right, I'm just off for five minutes to give myself a talking to, then I'll lead it." It was late in the day and the sun had already gone down, so it wasn't great for photos (to say the least), but you don't get to choose when a route like this gets done. After a short break, he tied in and off he set. The moves are brutal and the holds are tiny. Adam said the crux is the hardest move he's ever done. Deep lock offs and very long reaches are the order of the day. When he popped for the sloper on the arete, he didn't hit it right and took a second to re-sit his fingers slightly. When I was watching, this seemed to take ages and I started to worry, but watching it back on video, you can barely notice it. This sloper is where the crucial edge came off and it's an awful hold. In fact, Adam said he couldn't pull on it from below and needs to cut loose and throw himself outwards to be able to get his weight on it. I can't emphasize how hard this is. I was probably climbing 8a+ish when I was working it and I couldn't do this. It's an outrageous move to do way above your gear! Adam told me that if it was a boulder problem it would be 8b. Every time he did it on a top rope I was impressed. To see him do it on the lead was jaws-to-the-floor, heart-in-mouth, breathtaking. Also, he did it slightly differently every single time, which added to the excitement...
Can anyone familiar with the buttress say if you are looking at a groundfall from the hard climbing? Difficult to tell how far above the ground the gear is. Amazing looking climbing.
Balls aren't big enough and fingers aren't strong enough.
Quote from: bendavison on January 24, 2014, 12:32:26 pmBalls aren't big enough and fingers aren't strong enough.Given your recent performance, I'll accept the first half of that excuse.
Post Looks awesome.So does E8 have the biggest difficulty range of any trad grade? From low font 7's (?) to 8B!!
Hubble and Liquid Ambar were written up as E9 originally so maybe it's not far off the mark!
Because Hubble and liquid got E9 for difficulty and IF got E9 for being death....