Quote from: shark on December 13, 2013, 02:59:03 pmIts not the first time that Bennett, Barrows or threenine have had a pop. I try consistently to improve and for once had enough of being needled. Apologies for the sense of humour failure.
Its not the first time that Bennett, Barrows or threenine have had a pop. I try consistently to improve and for once had enough of being needled. Apologies for the sense of humour failure.
There's nothing special about deadhanging on big holds with weights - it's just a way of doing max strength exercises for recruitment.
What an interesting thread. Don't log pile it! Also, if I were you Simon I'd try not to get pissed off by the trinity (Barrows/39/Bennett). Sure they constantly rag on your training routine, but what's their motivation? I find it hard to believe they're just trying to be dicks (39 excepted). It's more likely they genuinely want to help you improve and don't agree with what you're doing.
Just a quick question about hypertrophy and strength training that's been in the back of my mind and wondered if you guys had the answer. In my scenario in question the climber doesn't have much body fat and doesn't lose or gain weight during a training period in which they see good strength gains. Training for hypertrophy implies increased muscle size / bulk for strength gains. Therefore if there is no increase in muscle size or weight gain during training then any gains made must be down to specific fibre adaptation or neural factors e.g. Motor memory etc.Does this seem right?
Most of this improvement seems related to a more healthy motivation and to a subtle step forward in "flow and feel".
The most important question to ask yourself is; What would Ondra do? and I bet he doesn't do many weighted dhs.
Sorry, but this makes absolutely no sense. Ondra is a professional climber who gets paid to climb. What he does has no link to what Shark can do.
Quote from: ghisino on December 15, 2013, 12:41:37 pmMost of this improvement seems related to a more healthy motivation and to a subtle step forward in "flow and feel".Back around you fuckin' Italian hippy. Here we want to discuss a finger strength that rips slopers from the rock.
not really sure about slopers, but it would be interesting to investigate a possible correlation between recent crimp breakages in font (sideways, fata) and the use of Eva Lopez's weighted deadhangs.
Just had a quick google and, am I right in understanding that the sum total of this method is dh ing with weights on a reasonable hold?
QuoteSorry, but this makes absolutely no sense. Ondra is a professional climber who gets paid to climb. What he does has no link to what Shark can do. I think it does, what works for him is likely to be beneficial for mortals as well and he seems to spend most of his "off rock" training on a campus board rather than doing weighted dhs, with reasonable outcomes .
This thread is genius. I rarely look at the forum these days.....but when I do hahahahahaha. Shark, and this is said without prejudice, you're basically weak. The crux move on the oak seems to be at your bouldering max (maybe 7a+ with moves before). I'm sure you could increase your ancap/pe etc but really you need to be doing those moves way easier before you can endure anything. X