From Eva's own paper: "These methods were not intended to substitute conventional climbing training but rather to serve as an additional resource for strength training. Afterwards, the other technical and physical training for that session was carried out."Shark - "as you have to factor in prior rest to achieve the intensity required in the sessions to reap the training response."Fair assumption perhaps, but this is not 'very much evidence based' if you're basing this on her MAW/MED paper since she doesn't test alternatives. Also, given the high variety of other training involved in that paper, I'd be careful about drawing any strong conclusions from the paper at all. Personally I think you've taken from it exactly what you wanted to take from it, irrespective of whether it's actually valid or not, and that this is holding back your training.
Since her original paper she has subsequently done a lot of coaching, blogging, written a deadhanging programme to accompany her fingerboard and broken new grades.Yes I've taken from it what I want - an efficient and effective method of improving max finger strength which I perceive is my main weakness and therefore worth focussing on alongside bouldering as I can get endurance back fairly easily. I would quite like to chat with you about this at some stage but not here.
Excuse me guys, could you please help me understand the concept of "weak fingers". I take it as being unable to hang or pull down a hold, but having never experienced it I struggle with it.
as he seems to be in a feisty mood
In short I believe I'm on the right track to concentrate on deadhanging and bouldering to address my weak fingers and lack of bouldering ability relative to my redpoint grade especially as the project I'm training for is a bouldery route
You'd struggle to argue that Dan V (primarily boulderising i.e. small grips) has anything other than 'streng' fingers, yet you choose to follow the Lopez plan ([Spanish] sport climbing i.e. jugs), why?
Like I said, if it were someone laying into my methodology and training I'd do my usual thing of thinking they were an idiot for at least an hour before considering going back and looking at their points with a more open mind, so take a day or two to think about it, see what others think etc.
I tried the advocated regimes from BM when I first got the board and was disappointed with the limited improvement whereas the gains from weighted hangs have been tremendous.
Are these jugs ? Maybe for you but not for me.
Quote from: shark on December 13, 2013, 12:54:10 pmI tried the advocated regimes from BM when I first got the board and was disappointed with the limited improvement whereas the gains from weighted hangs have been tremendous. Really? The gains at deadhanging a big hold with weight on have been tremendous, you have yet to convince me that the gains in terms of rock climbing have been tremendous.
Quote from: abarro81 on December 13, 2013, 12:58:58 pmQuote from: shark on December 13, 2013, 12:54:10 pmI tried the advocated regimes from BM when I first got the board and was disappointed with the limited improvement whereas the gains from weighted hangs have been tremendous. Really? The gains at deadhanging a big hold with weight on have been tremendous, you have yet to convince me that the gains in terms of rock climbing have been tremendous.And there I was thinking that maybe you weren't such an arsehole after all. There's a lesson in changing opinion right there.
Quote from: shark on December 13, 2013, 01:11:08 pmQuote from: abarro81 on December 13, 2013, 12:58:58 pmQuote from: shark on December 13, 2013, 12:54:10 pmI tried the advocated regimes from BM when I first got the board and was disappointed with the limited improvement whereas the gains from weighted hangs have been tremendous. Really? The gains at deadhanging a big hold with weight on have been tremendous, you have yet to convince me that the gains in terms of rock climbing have been tremendous.And there I was thinking that maybe you weren't such an arsehole after all. There's a lesson in changing opinion right there. I don't think is the slightest bit arseholey. It's just a statement of fact, or an eroneous statement of fact.
Its not the first time that Bennett, Barrows or threenine have had a pop. I try consistently to improve and for once had enough of being needled. Apologies for the sense of humour failure.
There are different routes to a destination. I am confident what I am doing will get me up the Oak and maybe harder. Maybe other things would work as well or better. I have tried other approaches which havent yielded the results I was after so its not like I have been stuick in my ways. Flip flopping at this point would be counter productive.