Quote from: ianv on November 14, 2013, 05:04:30 pmI definitely think that 2 sessions a week of climbing specific weight training would be beneficial (and give better results than a 45min bouldering session) and you might still have time for the fingerboard in the evening.If I had to pick between the two (and it sounds like the OP does) then I reckon finger-boarding is without doubt the way to go. Personally I'd never consider deadhanging on a 'rest' or 'off' day, it's far too intense and is one of the few things that makes my forearms really sore.
I definitely think that 2 sessions a week of climbing specific weight training would be beneficial (and give better results than a 45min bouldering session) and you might still have time for the fingerboard in the evening.
A question for those of you who do (or have done) weight lifting etc.. as part of your training: I find myself with 55 minutes lunch breaks and I was wondering what's the best way to use them. There's a gym 200 mt from where I work, so I was playing with the idea of going there, maybe 2-3 times a week during my lunch breaks to do some weight training, on top of the 2 evenings at the local bouldering wall. Somebody 'experienced' bouldering and weight training told me 45 min sessions are way too short, therefore useless or even potentially dangerous for my joints and muscles, so I was wondering what you think about that, considering also that right now money for me is a bit of an issue, so I'd really hate to waste them on something not worth it, and that I might instead go for a run during those breaks, and shave off some weight...any input is really appreciatedg
If you're climbing above V5, then train your weaknesses, and no amount of generic advice without knowing those will help.Being a girl, IMHO is the exception to the above: girls seem to plateau at V4 because they can't do any pullups. They need to address that weakness earlier, again just my fuckin' opinion alright.End opinion!
Quote from: Lund on November 16, 2013, 08:02:09 amIf you're climbing above V5, then train your weaknesses, and no amount of generic advice without knowing those will help.Being a girl, IMHO is the exception to the above: girls seem to plateau at V4 because they can't do any pullups. They need to address that weakness earlier, again just my fuckin' opinion alright.End opinion!I can't do pull ups (well no more than 6 anyway) and have climbed font 7c. I probably could do with some weights eh.
I can't do pull ups (well no more than 6 anyway) and have climbed font 7c. I probably could do with some weights eh.
Me too (<10 pull ups and 7C - just!) tbh I can't remember the last time I did more than three in a row...
QuoteI can't do pull ups (well no more than 6 anyway) and have climbed font 7c. I probably could do with some weights eh.QuoteMe too (<10 pull ups and 7C - just!) tbh I can't remember the last time I did more than three in a row...But what sort of 7c (slab or big burly one), how long did it take and how much time do you have to climb?Having a stronger upper body could: make more stuff accessible and faster and possibly even open up the next grade. Don't dismiss it till you have tried it. The question was, "how do I make the best use of limited time?" and for this weights are good.
Quote from: ianv on November 17, 2013, 08:30:45 amQuoteI can't do pull ups (well no more than 6 anyway) and have climbed font 7c. I probably could do with some weights eh.QuoteMe too (<10 pull ups and 7C - just!) tbh I can't remember the last time I did more than three in a row...But what sort of 7c (slab or big burly one), how long did it take and how much time do you have to climb?Having a stronger upper body could: make more stuff accessible and faster and possibly even open up the next grade. Don't dismiss it till you have tried it. The question was, "how do I make the best use of limited time?" and for this weights are good.Burly - and it took me aaages I dislike Gyms and weights even more - but I gladly accept that it would help my climbing if I did some weights.. (and its probably a great use of a short time to get a work out etc..). My response was probably OT - and more towards the comment about women plateau-ing due to not being able to do any pull ups - which seems a bit of an odd thing to say... I think being able to do a pull up (or how many you can do) is not necessarily a good indicator of how hard you can climb. Rambling explanation over
P.S. Benching for shoulder stability, fine, but just do pressups. No climber needs to bench their own body weight unless they want to pull with the beauty of their breasts.
What fucking part of "any" do you not understand, 7c wad man?I don't give a shit how hard you punter along. Doesn't mean you know anything.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free