I used to have pretty poor multi-day stamina. If I did a "big" winter day in Scotland (e.g. 2-3 hr approach, 6-8 hours climbing, 2 hr descent) there's no way I'd be up for anything the next day.
Myabe not quite what you're looking for, but don't underestimate fueling and hydration, which is REALLY easy to do. Not from Climbing, but a few years back I trained for and did an ironman, so I was doing weekends of 6-9 hours steady cardio on Saturday and 3-5 hours on Sunday. If I slacked at all on Hydration or Fuel on Saturday, my Sunday was crap, and it's really easy to misjudge how much you need. Once again not climbing, but compare as you will. On Saturday, I would eat a full breakfast heavy on the complex carbs (generally about 600-800 cal), then go workout. Workout would take in 150ish Cal/hr, plus a post workout meal(within 30 min) of 150/per hour worked), then lunch about 1.5hrs later and even though I wasn't really hungry, I had to make myself eat about a 500-700Cal meal. Then a nap, then up and about for a bit, then dinner which I would aim for about 1200 Cal. It's ridiculous how much Fuel you need for big hard days, I was easily taking in 5-6K Cal and it wasn't enough. At least if you want to be able to go again the next day. All of the during workout stuff should be simple fast carbs with the main goal of hitting the bloodstream fast to replenish the glucose being burned. Post workout, a mix of simple carbs and a little protein. Later meals, higher fat is OK. I avoided the fat during and immediately after is Fat tends to satiate me longer and takes longer for the body to process, so you are less hungry which means you don't eat as much as you should, and also you're not getting your glucose restored as fast as you should.Hydration is tricky as well, especially in Yosemite. The elevation can really get to you there as it naturally has less moisture content, which increases the issues with hydration. Also as you're likely to e sweating a fair bit, understanding your electrolyte balance can make a huge difference. This can be addressed through what you're eating, or by using electrolyte supplements added to your water. I found through trial and error the right amount for me, but even once you know your baseline, pay attention to the impact of conditions.
Quote from: Fultonius on October 18, 2013, 04:10:48 pmI used to have pretty poor multi-day stamina. If I did a "big" winter day in Scotland (e.g. 2-3 hr approach, 6-8 hours climbing, 2 hr descent) there's no way I'd be up for anything the next day.And sometimes asleep before you got home!
Refuelling: Kettle Crisps. 1 bag between 2 people.Hydration: Chilled bottles of IPA.Worked for us
Hydration: Chilled bottles of IPA.Worked for us
What kind of stuff are you aiming for in Yosemite? Multi-day routes? Free or Aid? We found the big free routes wrecked us but the aid wasn't so bad.
Some thoughts from Tommy Caldwell in this vid who I guess knows a thing or two about climbing in Yosemite!
I'm not sure if you have access to such things where you are.
the very basic aim would be just any route up el cap.
especially a conversation i've had with a guy who bailed off the nose make me think that whatever route and style , being ready to suffer and as fit as possible is a good idea.
For this fitness is my #1 weakness right now - a 5-pitch wide crack route i did in Bavella last month went better than expected, but the next morning i felt as if a truck had run over me - the original plan was doing another route of similar difficulty but we ended up doing something easy enoght to be climbed in approach shoes...
the greatest grey zone to me is that i'd like to have the best multi-day fitness of my life, but i have no experience of how to obtain it without sacrificing performance at the move, problem, pitch level.
the more ambitious aim would be having a decent shot at freerider - by decent i mean not going past A0 in terms of aid, and having a tiny but realistic chance of sending if external factors (weather, climbing partner, trip lenght, crowds, etc) were very favourable.
I’m planning a trip to Yosemite again next June so I’ve been giving this some thought.You’ve told us where you want to be but in order to give directions we need to know where you are now. What kind of climbing and training do you do currently?
Our first route was a 400m 5.9 with loads of old-school wide flared chimneys, fat cracks and general burly awkwardness. We were destroyed the next day. Worse than I have been on any route in a long time.On every route we did I had plenty of forearm stamina and finger strength. Even on the crux of The Rostrum (a little easier that freerider) I wasn't struggling in the fingers department.So, the bottom line is, if you're Fr7a trad/sport onsight fit then you're probably plenty fit.HOWEVER. You MUST MUST MUST train on proper offwidths and chimneys. I'm not sure if you have access to such things where you are. If not, just throw yourself into them on the first few days. Top rope, lead, whatever. You need to get your technique dialled or these will END you. I would actually advocate a bit of Mark-Twight style "Upping the horsepower" during training. When you get back form a days climbing/training, do something else physical. Lift weights, run a around a field dragging a truck tyre etc. Get tough!
Isn't a big component of this psychological and forcing yourself to push on regardless of how you feel?