[Bonjoy]

Here’s various things I’ve done in the last month or so:

Mother Cap Quarry – Boulder
These are on the big egg of a boulder that has the Honeyman route Live Mountain Rescue TV on it. The guides list some stand ups on it but the grades and descriptions don’t make much sense. It also has a Honeyman 7a+ on it called Piggy Nose Cunt which got missed out of the guides, this goes up the right wall from a sit start. It’s a good problem, there’s a vid on youtube of Dan doing it. The new ones are:

Capoeira 7a+ - Sit start off the block (as per PNC) and slap up left to finish by the arete

Cap’s Lock 7a - From a low start hanging slots (not quite reachable from sitting) make hard moves up trending right to finish using the arete

The other probs on the block, which were done by Dan years ago are a 6a up the blunt left arete, the wall just to the right is about 6a+ and right again about 6b+. The right sidewall of the other natural block overhanging the quarry is another one of Dan’s and about 6b.


Baslow – Square Stone
Moved a rock from under the roof allowing this to be done.

Toast Face Griller 6c+ - Starting on a flake/sidepull on the left follow the low lip right to finish round the arete up pockets, or up the left side of the arete at 6c.


Owler Tor – Pit Wall
Teat n Tengmalm’s 6b+ - Left of the obvious unclimbed project. Sit start and climb the diagonal crack then continue direct up the wall.

We tried the main proj too but didn’t get very far. Ned also tried it a few days later and said it was desperate. I think it’ll go somewhere in around 8a I’d guess. Only the tall and strong fingered need apply and only on a cold day.


Derwent Edges – Dovestone Boulder
Gritlad climbed the wall just right of Perfect Porthole Problem rocking right into the next problem. It’s scary due to a very dodgy landing. He said 7a but some of the difficulty might be mental. I didn’t dare repeat. Shame about the landing as the sit start and direct finish look good.
Said yoot also did the central arete (the RHS is Hip Hip Huway 6c) on it’s left side, again at 7a. Start on undercuts with feet on the plinth.

Hu-way in a Manger 6c – Step off the boulder on the right to climb the wall just right of Play Huway. A bit close to it’s neighbour but decent moves.

The Crow From Below 7a+ - Start right of The Dove from Above, matched on the block in the cave. Climb out to the lip and move left to finish up TDfA.

Gritlad got some of these on vid so might see them on vimeo at some point and some names on his probs. Think he also got an ascent of TDfA – good prob, seemed more 7b than 7b+ though.

[Wood FT]

Toast Face Griller 6c+ -

nice

[dave]

It also has a Honeyman 7a+ on it called Piggy Nose Cunt which got missed out of the guides,

Cant think why.

Baslow – Square Stone
Moved a rock from under the roof allowing this to be done.

Toast Face Griller 6c+ - Starting on a flake/sidepull on the left follow the low lip right to finish round the arete up pockets, or up the left side of the arete at 6c.

When did you do this word? I did something here a couple of weeks back, presumably after you though as the block had already been shifted.

What I did started on the juggy flake under the right hanging arete, and without using the backwall/plinth on the right climbed up the hanging arete, and a harder version that basically finished up the lefthand pockets prob kn the westward face, again sans plinth. They were both quite good.

[Gritlad]

Think i will call my probs Half the World Huway for th LHS arete, its a good addition, and Huway to the Hills for the 7Aish rock over (The sit will be good to this but the more goes me and jon had the more the block shifted that made the landing...)
Didnt do TDfA myself, I thought it was hard but I am a pilchard

[Johnny Brown]

Me 'n Pat did a few problems on that piggy nose block circa 98/99. Suffice to say Pat was more enthusiastic than I.

[Bonjoy]

Dave - They sound like the two versions of the end of TFG I did. I forgot to mention in the descriptions that the backwall/plinth is out. The longer version went up the west face bearing rightwards, the shorter went up the north side of the arete.
Did these two or three weeks back, straight after shifting the block.

JB - PNC is the most obvious and probably the best thing on the block, but Dan did it yonks ago (and wrote it up on a topo in the Outside new route book) so you'll have to fight it out between the three of you for the FA.

I've got a vid of PNC and Capoeira i'll post up at some point.

[Somebody's Fool]

Adam. I think you put 'Suffice to say" at the start of the wrong sentence there.

[dave]

Dave - They sound like the two versions of the end of TFG I did. I forgot to mention in the descriptions that the backwall/plinth is out. The longer version went up the west face bearing rightwards, the shorter went up the north side of the arete.
Did these two or three weeks back, straight after shifting the block.

We were trying to work out exactly what had been moved, knew it was different to before but not sure how. When we were there there was a block under the roof kind of just right of the old B5 problem starting on the juggy flake. I was almost sure it used to be further right.

[Nigel]

Me 'n Pat did a few problems on that piggy nose block circa 98/99. Suffice to say Pat was more enthusiastic than I.

How come you missed this in '97 when you did everything else?

[Bonjoy]

Dave - They sound like the two versions of the end of TFG I did. I forgot to mention in the descriptions that the backwall/plinth is out. The longer version went up the west face bearing rightwards, the shorter went up the north side of the arete.
Did these two or three weeks back, straight after shifting the block.

We were trying to work out exactly what had been moved, knew it was different to before but not sure how. When we were there there was a block under the roof kind of just right of the old B5 problem starting on the juggy flake. I was almost sure it used to be further right.

The block under the roof was a fair bit left and right under the lip. As you'll have noticed we didn't quite manage to move it out from under the problems completely. Lost a bit of heaving psyche after trapping my index finger!