1-find out the intensity below which climbing loses its training value (for your objectives...)
Bust out the ice axes??Do you get full 24 hour night at any point by the way? Like for 30 days? If so I'd be shitting it.
Quote from: ghisino on October 15, 2013, 10:48:19 am1-find out the intensity below which climbing loses its training value (for your objectives...)Any idea how to do this? I've never really thought about it this way before....
i am sorry i have no precise or "scientific" answer (others might help?)anyway, my personal beliefs:-"1st warmup intensity": only useful for technical drills or for one day just to get the feel back (as when switching from bouldering season to route season, adjusting to a new rock kind, coming back after a prolonged stop, etc)-around consistent flash/OS grade, known routes/boulders that feel neither hard nor piss easy: big volumes of this seem good for building "trainability", all day fitness, or confidence (highballs, scary leads etc).-anything harder: ok, we can safely assume it has a training value......-the lecturer, a former french head coach, basically believes that as long as you are a technically accomplished adult climber and a decent athlete, there is no point in doing anything at "medium" intensity. Even if you are doing 15 minutes laps on a board, it should be hard enough that during the last minutes you are close to throwing up.
The main error climbers who wants to train strength endurance make is that they train at too low intensity. Because training strength endurance is really painful
Based off of your "personal" intensities, would you say the former french coach is advocating skipping the middle intensity completely?
So the cycling thing is very different (yes I've done a bunch of bike racing as well , even won a 200 mile race a while back) as you're training for a long day of sitting in a peleton and not getting dropped. You end up doing small stints at the front so you need a certain level of max power/output, and then the ability to just go steady but fairly easy for a LONG time. If you look at cycling training for time trialists or triathletes where you are solo, the training is VASTLY different.
Thats clearly crazy. Hard sport-climbing is just about strength endurance. Lots of really good boulderers are totally shit on route climbing, despite being world class climbers.
Hard sport-climbing is just about strength endurance.