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[Devon][Daddyhole Main]Three problems (Read 2325 times)

Yoof

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[Devon][Daddyhole Main]Three problems
June 25, 2013, 12:21:32 am
Did three problems below Daddyhole Main t'uther day. I would be amazed if they've never been done before, but as far as my googling has gone, there is no record of them. All are strong lines with cool moves and deserve attention. They are somewhere between 6b and 6c. Probably (awesome precision). NO BLOCKS FOR FEET.

They are all on the visible face of the diamond shaped boulder in this photo (beneath Gates of Eden)
http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1065/826435262_6521a6046a_z.jpg?zz=1

From L->R

Sandpiper. Start sat on the block in the centre of the face, work out to the left arete using undercuts and sidepulls.

Adamantine Gate Same start, go directly up and then right to a dubious mantle over the right arete.

Uriel Start sat on the ground using the obvious crack. Deep locks slaps and crimps lead up the prow, finishing slightly to the right.

Go and do them!

EdGowSmith

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#1 Re: [Devon][Daddyhole Main]Three problems
September 08, 2013, 09:38:32 pm
Hey, I went down to Daddyhole today.
Had a look at these problems but with only one pad and no spotters I didn't want to risk falling off!
However, on the other side of the beach I climbed a few problems on a smooth, rather barnacled boulder situated on a sandy section of the beach.
It has a prominent crack-line below the lip on the western side, and a rippled slab on the southern side.
Have you had a look at anything there?

Yoof

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#2 Re: [Devon][Daddyhole Main]Three problems
September 09, 2013, 01:55:45 pm
Good to know someone's keen :) Yeah, they are a bit tall :p

YES! I was super keen to try that crack, but the bottom was wet. I figured I'd leave it until the tide went out, when I returned it was all under water! Such an obvious good line. If ever I'm back I'll do it. Had a small play on the blocks in that area, but the crack was easily the best line. Did you do it?

Also, round the corner from those boulders if you carry on all the deep water traverses and then continue on foot for a wee bit is some good easy deep water bouldering. Good fun on a sunny day.

EdGowSmith

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#3 Re: [Devon][Daddyhole Main]Three problems
September 09, 2013, 04:31:15 pm
Good to know someone's keen :) Yeah, they are a bit tall :p

YES! I was super keen to try that crack, but the bottom was wet. I figured I'd leave it until the tide went out, when I returned it was all under water! Such an obvious good line. If ever I'm back I'll do it. Had a small play on the blocks in that area, but the crack was easily the best line. Did you do it?


Will definitely have a go at them when I have more mats though!

Unfortunately no, it felt pretty hard and I couldn't bear through the pain of the barnacly hand-jams!
I did do a traverse of the lip however, starting low on the right with foot jams in the crack and then moving up leftwards on slopers, before making a big move back into the crack at the corner and then topping out leftwards.
Felt about font 7b+, but not too sure of the difficulty.

Yoof

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#4 Re: [Devon][Daddyhole Main]Three problems
September 09, 2013, 07:03:44 pm
Awesome stuff! Tell me what you think when you do them!

Damn good effort. Though I thought the crack would be around 6c so it should be easy for someone of your strengths!

EdGowSmith

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#5 Re: [Devon][Daddyhole Main]Three problems
September 09, 2013, 07:16:00 pm
I will  :)

Haha, but there's a difference between being strong on slopers and being strong on hand jams!


 

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