If you're time-poor and/or live far from the rock I think redpointing is a more efficient way of doing moves that test you and ticking routes that satisfy you. If you have the time, doing a lot of onsighting is probably the better path to being a good all-round climber.
Quote from: Rocksteady on May 08, 2013, 11:10:21 amIf you're time-poor and/or live far from the rock I think redpointing is a more efficient way of doing moves that test you and ticking routes that satisfy you. If you have the time, doing a lot of onsighting is probably the better path to being a good all-round climber. Agree with everything you said before this, but I've always felt the opposite. For me, when I'm time poor, such as on a trip, I generally spend the bulk of it onsighting and getting on everything I can and spend very little trying to redpoint something. The same when I'm at home. I only work rp when I know I have to time to commit to something. Otehrwise I always feel stressed about the outcome, as I won't know if I really gave it my all....
Quote from: Sasquatch on May 08, 2013, 05:14:46 pmQuote from: Rocksteady on May 08, 2013, 11:10:21 amIf you're time-poor and/or live far from the rock I think redpointing is a more efficient way of doing moves that test you and ticking routes that satisfy you. If you have the time, doing a lot of onsighting is probably the better path to being a good all-round climber. Agree with everything you said before this, but I've always felt the opposite. For me, when I'm time poor, such as on a trip, I generally spend the bulk of it onsighting and getting on everything I can and spend very little trying to redpoint something. The same when I'm at home. I only work rp when I know I have to time to commit to something. Otehrwise I always feel stressed about the outcome, as I won't know if I really gave it my all....Interesting, I get way more stressed about the idea of an onsight near my limit and it takes me ages to commit to moves etc. etc. I suppose I'm talking about a redpoint at 'quick redpoint' level, that is too hard for me to onsight but which I'll be confident I'll get in a session or two.
So this is why I try for the onsight, and if not then it's at a grade I should be able to rp, 2nd or 3rd go. Little stress. For me my onsight limit and quick RP are about the same.
I think the question in the title is quite an important one when trying to improve at climbing. No doubt spending lots of time onsighting develops a bigger variety of movement schemas, which is part of being a better climber. But practising a redpoint perfects a particular set of movements, so that you really engrain those techniques. Is that also part of being a better climber?
Rocksteady i think you bring up a great point - it's important to nail down new movements so they become engrained. For me I find it effective to do so by repeating climbs or problems I have sent before - learning to do hard moves and linkups well even while tired or fatigued or under less than ideal circumstances really wires those moves and engrams in my mind and body.
I've got a new 7b project, I've climbed this grade before but the style of this one is not what I'm used to. No really hard moves but ~15 meters without a real rest, sustained!I linked it from the floor to a finger jug (pumpy "rest") about 4 meters up, 6 moves. Then rested on the rope and linked from there for ~10 moves to the final dyno. Once latched the route is jugs to the belay.It's a route that if I was a lot fitter I could probably on-sight as I worked and did all the moves in isolation first go. So my question, as this is a fitness/PE issue do I (As well as the feet on fingerboard stuff I'm doing):a. Keep trying to link sections/start redpointing and get fit on the route?b. Go around ticking multiple easier routes to get fit, then come back to my project?I guess I'm trying to avoid an all out siege...I'm aware of this thread on redpoint tactics:http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17748.0Just looking for something a little more specific.Cheers
Nice one. I don't think you'll have any trouble moving to 7b+ (if you haven't already ). IPJF is right next door!
I knew it! Good work, time to up the ante.
Nice one Luke. Get on the bandits. One of the best there and will never be downgraded
Quote from: Doylo on May 22, 2013, 11:55:45 amNice one Luke. Get on the bandits. One of the best there and will never be downgradedCheers Doylo, heard Bandits is nails for 7b+ but a great route. What's it like? Sustained I'm guessing!I belayed Spidey on it last year and he made it look 8b...
Well done Luke!Sounds like some massive progress in the last 6 weeks if you can now shake out where previously you were getting pumped out. Was it the foot-on campus'ing that made the difference you think?BTW. Grand Canyon was gopping on Saturday evening, but that place defies all conditions science so it might actually be dry!ps. Let me know if it is dry - some competition might be just the thing to get Lee to finish off his 10year siege of the extension...
A friend of mine has belayed Lee on his project recently and said he's getting very very close so hopefully this year will be the year!
I was just curious if anyone knew what causes this "powered out" feeling, or more to the point what is it pointing to a lack of?