[Durbs]

Also, does anyone know how they score the rankings?

Is it something simple like 10 points for a 1st, 8 for second etc?

[a dense loner]

Think I'm right in saying Pooch would've won if she'd read the sequence right on W1 (the mantle start?) as she got this first time after working out this sequence.

If I'd have been born with a fanny I'd have been a girl

[mr__j5]

The World Cup rankings are this:

http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=5&show_calc=1&cup=129

pretty much the same scoring system as alpine skiing. 100, 80, 65, 55, 51, 47, 43, 40 .... down to 1 for 30th.

The lowest result is dropped for total season score, if more than 5 events in the season.

The world ranking is a rolling 12 month total of values, that are similar to those of the world cup, but they are scaled according to the 'quality' of the field that is competing:

http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=5&show_calc=1

[Durbs]

If I'd have been born with a fanny I'd have been a girl

:p

Fair point.

@Mr J5 - good link thanks, is that the old version of the site?

[mr__j5]

@Mr J5 - good link thanks, is that the old version of the site?

Yes it is.

It still has information on it that you can't get to on the new crap site.

[r-man]

Also feel sorry for Noguchi and Puccio, so close...

Shauna too. If she'd stuck that hold on W4, the finish looked easy, it would have given her gold.

The points table for world ranking (with field factor added) is here:
https://ifsc.egroupware.net/CUWR_rules.php#cuwr-table

Which comes from this pdf here (which is linked to beneath the world rankings on the new site)
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_competitions/IFSC_Worldranking.pdf

[standard]

Great split screen for the final. Harrah!

[Durbs]

Munich this weekend - anyone fancy calling it?

I'd love Shauna or Pooch to get a gold this season, but it seems to rely on Anna messing up rather than anyone else out-climbing her.

[krymson]

This season definitely feels a bit like F1 in the Schumacher era.

It's exciting to watch Shauna, Akiyo and Pooch though. feels like they all have potential to get to the top they just need to keep it together, especially Puccio, who seems to have all right pieces but just needs better headgame. 

Perhaps a Zen meditation retreat is in order.

[Duma]

Jule.

[r-man]

Could be interesting. Most of the climbers have been on climbing trips in the long break, so their comp skills might not be on top form. You'd have to bet on Anna, though the others always have a chance. Some of the men have swapped to lead, so people like Sean, Jakob and Jorg might not be bouldering as well as normal. I bet Dmitrii has been training hard as ever though...

[Percy B]

I reckon Dmitrii or Rustam might win the mens - its the European championships next weekend and the Russians always aim to peak for the major championships. As for the women - no idea. I'd like to think that Anna might let the others have a bit of a go on the top step of the podium seeing as she's already won the series, but somehow I don't think thats likely....

[GraemeA]

Conditions might play their part. It's been hammering down all night and is forecast to rain until at least this evening. 5000 damp people under the roof could make it a bit steamy.

there was talk yesterday about Anna carrying a niggle and Jule fell off her skateboard on Thursday (hence the strapping on her ankle)

[Hoseyb]

Was it just me or were the mens semi final problems favouring a shorty for once?

[r-man]

Dunno, thought the first two looked easier for taller guys.

Lots of mantels though, 3 out of 4 problems for the men - probably explains the unusual finals line up.

[jwi]

How tall is tall? The following men reached the final

Thomas “Shorty” Taupr0n ??m
Dimitry Sharafutdinov  1.77m
Rustam Gelmanov 1.68m
Mykhaylo Shalagin 1.80m
Rei Sugimoto 1.70m
Sachi Amma 1.65m

[jwi]

These are some of the people that didn't make it through to the finals

Jan Hojer 1.88
Sean McColl 1.69
Jacob Schubert 1.74
Cédric Lachat 1.72
Jernej Kruder 1.79
Killian Fichhuber 1.74

I don't think height was an explanatory variable for the semis. (But this list reinforce what I usually tell people: "there is only one tall guy who can win a world cup in bouldering.")

[r-man]

I only said two problems looked easier for the tall, not impossible for the short. I've often been impressed by Sean or Rustam crushing big reaches that look morpho for others.

But have you got stats on how good they all are at mantels? 

[Oldmanmatt]

I was working today and trying to watch between customers (wet weekend in Torquay = lots of climbers in the Bunker), but that triple pyramid volume problem looked nails! Didn't catch anyone finishing it (did anyone top it?). And the Dome volume in the left... Did anyone even get off the ground?
Not going to have time to review or watch the finals (roasting going on), till much later...

[jwi]

Dimitry started to laugh after falling of the last move.... 

[kelvin]

Sorry to lower the tone but that french doris has got a right fit arse.

[Oldmanmatt]

With that pseudonym, I'm surprised you didn't say "hot"....

[kelvin]

  Maybe i could provide her with an ice bath.

[Durbs]

Great final, gutted for Shauna, but pleased for Pooch - can't have two faves win.

Aside from men's #1, great problems too, women's #4 was a fine combo of dyno, technical and power.

Roll on next season!

[r-man]

Yeah, great comp. The last problem especially, both men's and women's.

There's always such a fine line between testing climbing skill and testing the ability to do wierd moves (I know others disagree, but I think these are subtly different). The semi's seemed to do more of the latter, and the finals did more of the former. All very subjective I know, but (for me) the semis were ugly and the finals were pretty. I enjoyed them both though.

Shame that's the end this year, but euro's next week should be good.