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IFSC World Cup 2013
(Read 46488 times)
J_duds
menacing presence
Posts: 233
Karma: +2/-0
#100 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
May 25, 2013, 05:31:32 pm
Innsbruck finals are on you tube
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erm, sam
forum hero
Posts: 1315
Karma: +57/-3
#101 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
May 26, 2013, 10:44:24 pm
Just seen this. Oh happy day. Been busy these last two days but before then I've been checking every twenty minutes like some sort of addict.
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Durbs
forum hero
Posts: 1011
Karma: +33/-1
#102 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
May 29, 2013, 01:39:32 pm
#Spoiler alert
NSFW
:
Another fun comp, good (?) to see Anna not win, if only for the sake of opening the field up a bit, but such a shame it was in the round without Shauna... Commentators seemed to think it was nerves in front of the homecrowd, could be, as she utterly crushed the last problem when the pressue was off.
Men's was good too, shame the first 2 problems didn't seem to offer much of a challenge, must be hard to judge a dyno between impossible/easy, but think on problem #1 it seemed that once the dyno was done, the route was over.
Jan crushed it, which given that he almost didn't make the semi's was pretty impressive.
Overall, thought it was worth the wait.
I agree with some of the YouTube comments that it seems strange that even when you can show 2 climbs side-by-side from one camera shot far back, they still go with the close-up on one of the routes. This would be ok as they then show the replay, but as they can't mute the sound, you can still hear if they other climber's topped out or not.
Being ultra-picky, given everyone was flashing M1 & M2, the focus could've been on W1 & W2, but guess that's partly hindsight? Also sound-levels on CWP were out, but that's just being fussy. Overall they seem to be getting better & better - would be interesting to have some non-finalists co-commentating too.
Kinda crazy to see Team Austria's training facility - think I've seen bigger home training setups!
Roll on Canada!
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abarro81
forum hero
Posts: 4326
Karma: +349/-26
#103 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
May 29, 2013, 01:51:05 pm
Quote from: Durbs on May 29, 2013, 01:39:32 pm
Kinda crazy to see Team Austria's training facility - think I've seen bigger home training setups!
Where on the vid do you get to see that? Had a quick flick through but it wasn't obvious and don't want to watch the whole thing..
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r-man
forum hero
Glory lurks beneath the moss
Posts: 5030
Karma: +193/-3
#104 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
May 29, 2013, 01:52:59 pm
It's in one of the
Where in the world
Puccio/Parsons videos.
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abarro81
forum hero
Posts: 4326
Karma: +349/-26
#105 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
May 29, 2013, 02:14:59 pm
Oh right, saw that. Is that not the Innsbruck wall? Durbs must know some pimp home setups!
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Durbs
forum hero
Posts: 1011
Karma: +33/-1
#106 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
May 29, 2013, 03:38:12 pm
It was before the comp started - about er... 7 minutes in?
Not the entire wall obviously, just the bouldering bit.
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r-man
forum hero
Glory lurks beneath the moss
Posts: 5030
Karma: +193/-3
#107 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
May 29, 2013, 03:54:05 pm
@31min. It's the same place.
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r-man
forum hero
Glory lurks beneath the moss
Posts: 5030
Karma: +193/-3
#108 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
May 31, 2013, 03:49:12 pm
http://gripped.com/2013/05/sections/news/ongoing-pre-comp-coverage-of-ifsc-hamilton-june-1-2-the-art-of-world-cup-routesetting/
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Duma
forum hero
Posts: 5812
Karma: +235/-5
#109 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 01, 2013, 09:01:13 pm
mens quals start 9pm uk time
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/
Shauna, Mina, Leah, Alex all through to semis
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a dense loner
forum hero
Posts: 7165
Karma: +388/-28
#110 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 01, 2013, 09:18:37 pm
Is anyone else having problems watching men's quals?
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Duma
forum hero
Posts: 5812
Karma: +235/-5
#111 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 01, 2013, 09:22:33 pm
working for me
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Duma
forum hero
Posts: 5812
Karma: +235/-5
#112 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 01, 2013, 09:26:12 pm
maybe try ifsc youtube channel?
http://www.youtube.com/user/ifscchannel?feature=watch
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abarro81
forum hero
Posts: 4326
Karma: +349/-26
#113 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 01, 2013, 09:27:11 pm
fine for me
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a dense loner
forum hero
Posts: 7165
Karma: +388/-28
#114 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 01, 2013, 09:30:11 pm
What are you on weak boy? None of them seem to work
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Duma
forum hero
Posts: 5812
Karma: +235/-5
#115 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 02, 2013, 10:01:59 pm
finals on now:
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Duma
forum hero
Posts: 5812
Karma: +235/-5
#116 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 02, 2013, 10:25:01 pm
Jon Partridge doing a good job on the co comm I reckon
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erm, sam
forum hero
Posts: 1315
Karma: +57/-3
#117 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 02, 2013, 11:30:03 pm
Excellent comp!
Agree JP is a good comments bloke. Good at describing the movements and sequence details
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Duma
forum hero
Posts: 5812
Karma: +235/-5
#118 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 02, 2013, 11:32:39 pm
jesus mother fucking christ Rustam's attempted sequence on M3 was insane
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Stubbs
Guest
#119 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 03, 2013, 10:18:51 am
Best finals I've watched, JP's commentary made a lot of difference. Wish Rustam had managed that sequence!
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Teaboy
forum hero
Posts: 1188
Karma: +73/-2
#120 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 03, 2013, 11:15:32 am
Agree with all of the above, commentating was much improved with a knowledgable pundit alongside. I'd still like to hear more background about the competitors.
As well as Rustams crazy sequence I thought Akiyo was the star of the show, the way she hung a couple of the tops, and her sequence on the last problem, had me reacting like this was a proper sporting event......
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Danny
junky
Posts: 857
Karma: +43/-3
#121 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 03, 2013, 08:20:09 pm
Just seen this also, I agree with the comments.
Well-set problems and Jon Partridge did a great job, thankfully, because the other generic sports commentator came across like a total tube, IMHO of course. Two actual climbers next time would be better I think.
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Durbs
forum hero
Posts: 1011
Karma: +33/-1
#122 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 10, 2013, 10:01:16 am
Epic-ness!
Watched Toronto on Friday, Vail on Sunday - 2 of the most exciting rounds so far I'd say.
The atmosphere at Vail was incredible, I'm sure the acoustics and room set-up helped but everyone seemed pumped.
Both were proper nail-biters for both men and women - excellent problems, possibly too hard for men in Vail, but I think we would've seen more tops on M4 if it had been earlier, and possibly all in general had they not climbed the semis & qualis.
Only minor niggle; I'm not a fan of the replacement commentator - bring back Daniel ASAP! (Think he was at a wedding?). His replacement is a bit too "generic commentator" and is a fan of stating the obvious...
Really enjoyed Jon & Alex's contributions, but I guess they're only an option if they don't qualify? Particularly liked the tension between Alex and replacement guy (sorry, can't remember his name) as I got the impression she wasn't a fan.
[Side note:] There's definitely a drinking game to be had when Jon co-commentates. Shot/2-fingers on every "absolutley", and finish your pint on "methodology".
Interesting to see 2 more Americans in the finals, going back to earlier discussions - Angie seemed to struggle with endurance - think she would've crushed if she'd been fresh. Really highlights the level of training the "regulars" are at.
Same as P-Rob - definitely got the skills, just not the reserves?
Final thoughts; desperate for Pooch, Akiyo & Shanua to get a gold, but everytime, Anna just brings it.
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jwi
forum hero
Posts: 4265
Karma: +332/-1
#123 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 10, 2013, 10:30:02 am
Agree, the best finals I've seen in quite a while... The highlight in the mens final was Gelmanov's crazy sequence on M4 and Sharafutdinov's satisfied expression when he heard the crowd roar: “Good on Rustam, but if even *he* can do it I'll crush it...” his smile seemed to say.
Also feel sorry for Noguchi and Puccio, so close..., but it must be disheartening when they cannot win even when Stöhr waste two tries on a easy problem by starting from the wrong position
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Durbs
forum hero
Posts: 1011
Karma: +33/-1
#124 Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
June 10, 2013, 10:42:27 am
Have to say, I genuinely thought Anna was out the running - she just didn't look to be in her usual crushing mode. Being called down seemed to rattle her I thought.
Think I'm right in saying Pooch would've won if she'd read the sequence right on W1 (the mantle start?) as she got this first time after working out this sequence.
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