[shark]

Weight 11st 9-11

Mon. Malham. Primo connies. Worked on top half. Good links.After dogged up Mescalito finishing at New Dawn belay Run flat tyre burst just outside Malham. Didnt get back until midnight on the back of a lorry.
Tues.
Weds.
Thurs. Malham. Primo again. Went on the start of the Oak. Tickled the undercut from the ground a couple of times.
Fri.     
Sat. Malham. Cold but good still. Skin in better condition after using antihydral. Tired but did good links from ground and of the top half.
Sun.

Exciting to be back on the Oak and making reasonable progress. Conscious I'm overweight and need to sort niggly shoulder. Seeing physio tomorrow and booked to go back to Malham on Friday.

[csl]

Goals for March.
Rehab finger
Rehab shoulder
Get really fit whilst recovering - try to do 4/5 endurance orientated sessions a week
Run an 17.50 park run.
Go outside

Mon
Tue - good endurance session climbing. Run 500m speed efforts.
Wed
Thu - pinnacle routes. All ok apart from small holds. Most of a 7b before the holds got too small for left hand. Lots of doubles and triples around 6b/6b+
Fri
Sat - run 12 km. climbing unstructured but finger feeling better.
Sun - run 33km - slow and cold

Ok week, busy with freelance work so not enough climbing but cant complain

[nai]

M - garage board 2 mins on, 6 off, failed half way through 6th set.
      Core - planks, dishes & pressups
T - weights - TGUs, Renagade Rows & deadlifts
w
T - garage board 2 mins on, 6 off. Completed 6 sets but a struggle at the end
     Core - planks, levers (up to 1.75 legs), leg raises
F - 7.5km run, 39:30
S - garage board 2 mins on, 5 off. Failed -10s 6th set
S- Core - planks, dishes, pressups, leg raises.

Elbow still giving me jip, need to get it looked at really, font in 4 weeks.

[fried]

Monday - Very brief beastmaker session in between doing other suff.
Tuesday - Nowt
Wednesday - Indoor, first for a while. Fine.
Thursday - Nothing
Friday - First proper BM session 4sets -4x6 mixed holds. Mostly four finger pocket or Four finger pocket + 25° sloper.
Saturday - Another weekend of moving in hell. Ikea plus another 2 warehellhouses. Back is now aching like fuck again.

Sunday - Another skive off. Misty start, so have a look at Gorge aux chats. It's been a while since I've been here and no amount of indoor shizzle can prepare the fingers for those crimps. Spend a lot of time trying to do a 6A slab on the red circuit that I used to think was impossible. I can now hit the top, and It only remains to do the most difficult bit; the slopey top-out. Do a couple of blues, get shut down on lots of stuff. I need to get out once a week, just to get used to using real outdoor footholds again, I swear the stronger I get the worse I climb.

Back home to flatpackhellconstuction. Drink wine.

Weight 74.1kg

Oh, and a quick question for Shark (or anyone else); Is there any reason not to use varying holds on a BM? i.e right hand - pocket, left hand - sloper. I did have a search but didn't turn up anything.

[cheque]

STG- E2 on grit this season.
MTG- 7b, 7B and E3 in 2013

M- Rest.
T- Notts Depot bouldering. Flashed all the newly-set blue problems (V1-V3 I think) except one which took me 5 goes! Unsuccesful work on remaining harder problems after.
W- Notts Depot circuit board. Five laps of the yellow circuit with 6 minute rests in between. Felt exactly as demanding as last week, when I did the same thing with 7 minute rests, so definite fitness gain. 5 minute rests next week!
T- Max deadhangs. Progress on most grip types, especially middle two, which must come from the yellow circuit mentioned above as it has a number of these holds. Introduced front two/ back two/ back three into the session and started using a medicine ball to stand on in order to work on grips and holds I just can't hang. Crunches and wide-arm pressups, which I must do more regularly as they felt very welcome.
F- Rest.
S- Week 10 of the swiss ball program I did for about a year. Mainly picked this as it involves virtually no upper body at all and resting that felt like a good idea. Felt good to do it again but I don't think it's climbing-specific enough to start doing every week again.
S- Nottingham Climbing Centre. First time since mid November- first time on a rope since late November! It's not the best wall in the world (although it does have the sought after featured resin panels!) but I feel a bit daft to have ignored it for so long. Did five '5b' (low- mid 6s in real world grades) routes. Not sure whether to be pleased or disappointed with my performance as they felt easy but I definitely overgripped (particularly at first) and didn't read them very well. Felt good to be climbing routes again though! Did most of the red boulder problems (font 6s range apparently) afterwards.

Pissed off that the weekend weather's been so poor, especially as I won't get to climb next weekend. Should have gone to Malham from the sounds of it. Training's going well though.

[Oldmanmatt]

STG  Get back to working 7B/C projects on real rock...
LTG  Tuppence (long shot, but I'm giving myself until August 2014).

Weight 79.5 kg (4kg too much).

M  Quay. Routes and problems. Stretching.
T.  Walking/scrambling with the kids.
W. School trip (don't ask, walked frigging miles, 30 six year olds, most work I've done in years).
T. Abs and upper. Two hours of it. Followed by max hangs.
F. Quay, problems and systems board. Hard workout, disappointed by lack of performance.
St. Quay, routes and problems; 'til I couldn't move...
Sn. Where's the bloody sun then, eh? How can it still be snowing? What do you mean "Mother's day"?

[Muenchener]

W. School trip (don't ask, walked frigging miles, 30 six year olds, most work I've done in years).

Tell me about it. I once volunteered to help shepherd a kindergarten outing through a journey on the underground, complete with change of trains. One of the scariest things I've ever done (up there with The Long Reach on Etive)

[Muenchener]

STG: (Indoor) 7a redpoint
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Glorious spring weather all week in the office; rain at the weekend. 

M:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short session: one hour endurance circuits in the 6b/+ range
W:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen: ditto
F: 
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. A dozen problems to warm up, then working on 7a circuit project. Good progress: got a couple more moves than previous session, and linked longer overlapping sections.
S: Mobility, pressups, core

[shark]

Oh, and a quick question for Shark (or anyone else); Is there any reason not to use varying holds on a BM? i.e right hand - pocket, left hand - sloper. I did have a search but didn't turn up anything.

I used to do this, obviously alternating for the next hang.

[Dolly]

M Foundry lunchtime
T
W Shed. I genuinely love my shed.
T Foundry lunchtime
F 5k run after work. Quite fast for me (tortoise pace)
S tired and ill with a cold bug. Lots of quality sofa time and a nap
S In Barnsley for 9:30 to watch son lose 10 1 against Hoyland Common Rough Lads FC (or whatever they were called) Like being on the film set for Kes but without the glamour. Had on all the proper "outdoor insulation" clothes I own and it was still fucking freezing. Windy with a bit of sleet. The true definition of "grim up north" Walked up to the shed but was too tired to do anything. Just got back from 3 hours @ work. Bit grumpy

[iain]

More rehab and the odd oh fb session this week. Nothing systematic, just trying to keep things ticking over whilst finger fully recovers and work dominates my life. On the plus side elbow and shoulder tweaks have all but gone due to some rehab and training changes.

Off to font this weekend    will mean a good break and a many-fold increase in days out this year. No goals, just climbing and patisserie (although I guarantee won't be able to resist trying a few longstanding projects)

[fried]

Oh, and a quick question for Shark (or anyone else); Is there any reason not to use varying holds on a BM? i.e right hand - pocket, left hand - sloper. I did have a search but didn't turn up anything.

I used to do this, obviously alternating for the next hang.

Cheers Shark.

[Luke Owens]

STG - 7b (My project) and Font 7A
MTG - 7c and Font 7A+
LTG - 8a and Font 7B/+

Monday - Rushed from work and got to the crag at 5pm to try my project, felt stressed and rushed knowing I only had an hours daylight. Had 2 redpoints (first was practically a warm up) and then another 2 in the dark with headtorch (not ideal). No send but learnt some more about the route and sorted out some technical beta.

Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday & Friday - Rest (Couldn't get a babysitter in the week and wanted to stay rested for project on Saturday)

Saturday - Despite it raining since Thursday eve and conditions looking misty and damp out the window in the morning on Saturday, I headed back to Denbigh to try my project. Against all odds it was bone dry...?! Awesome!

Warmed up by getting on the route. Very cold conditions but good for the crux sloper move. First go was rubbish and as expected I got flash pump. 2nd go I hit the sloper and didn't stick it.

3rd go and I found myself past the crux pumped stupid on the upper section. You could define the upper section as considerably easier than the crux below but I got completely stressed all of a sudden at the prospect of how close I was to getting the first ascent and achieving a massive goal of mine.

I managed to calm down and carry on over thinking the sustained moves to the chains. Clipping them didn't feel real and then it sunk in. What just happend? It all happend so quickly! An amazing feeling!

The route is called Force Majeure - F7b it's very unique and an excellent route for more info on it:

I've wrote about the route on my Blog:
http://lukeowens.blogspot.co.uk/

There's also a video of it on my Vimeo page: https://vimeo.com/user10510082

Sunday - Rest

[davej]

Nice one Luke enjoyed the vid

[duncan]

STG - recuperate / rehabilitate
MTG - E5


Week 159
M -
T - Westway routes: c.10 x 6a-b
W -
T -
F -
S -
S -


Week 160
M - Dumbells - Finger curls, biceps curls
T - Biscuit Bouldering - 30 Black circuit (V0-V1)
W -
T - Fingerboard - feet-on micro-session
F -
S -  Cancelled carefully negotiated trip as forecast was dire.  Fortunately Swanage and Portland webcams supported the decision. Started thread on UKB instead. Stumbled upon http://www.blocfest.co.uk/ but sufficient blobs on ply remained to do 20 x Blacks (V0-V1), 20 x Yellow/Blacks (V1-V2).
S - Swimming with offspring. Ran 1.2km. Both freezing cold and hard work. Dumbells - Finger curls, biceps curls

Finally, beginning to feel like a human not a petri dish. Wrist continues to be somewhat tweaky but tolerating more activity.  Carry on.

[iain]

The route is called Force Majeure - F7b it's very unique and an excellent route for more info on it:

Good effort and nice line.

[webbo]

Mon. Rockcity session on cellar board first in months.
Tu. Turbo.
Wed. Home board managed to pull a bit harder.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Weight dumbell workout. Turbo.
Sat. Leeds wall on way to visit my mother. Managed a couple of v5s which is better than last time.
Sun. Home board repeated a couple of problems i haven't been able to do since I made all the footholds a sort of mirror. Dumbell workout.
Good week even managed to get in to and climb in a pair of trousers I bought 15 months ago when I had delusions of thinness.   

[Luke Owens]

Nice one Luke enjoyed the vid

Good effort and nice line.

Cheers guys! Looking forward to people getting on it!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same..

M: Fingerboard - Repeaters, max hangs (careful openhand shizz all the way) and offset pullups.
T: AnCap + AeroCap @ The Works - Found 2 yellow problems on steep wall (15ish moves) and linked em via a hard move or two - 2 sets of 4 reps @ 3 mins rest betweed reps (10 mins between sets) - Felt pretty hard and failed on last rep of each set! 4 x 10mins easyish traversing with 8 mins rest between sets.. Dull, Dull, Dull!
W: Rest.
T: AnCap + AeroCap @ The Works - Same problems etc., barbequed them this time - Added 2 harder moves. 4 x 10mins easyish traversing with 8 mins rest between sets.. Dull, Dull, Dull!
F: Rest.
S: 6 mile fell run in the snow with the dog - brisk! Bouldering + AeroCap @ The Works - CWIF problems, yellows, yellow and blacks and the odd blue - Felt stronger than I have in a while (probably still weak as piss in the great scheme of things tho). 3 x 10min traversing - Mind numbing!
S: Took Mrs out with the kids to The Hepworth Gallery.. Nice!

A good week - Ramped it up as per my plan. Finger actually didn't hurt on one of the sessions which seemms like a milestone!

This week: As above with more frequency and intensity!

:D

[chillax]

STG Rehab ankle, climb again
MTG E4, boulder 7B
LTG E7, 8A

M - nowt
T - physio. Ankle should be climbable in 2 months.
W - nowt
T - Gym. 1 hr stationary bike. Core. Workout From Hell (WFH) Arms and Shoulders
F - 
S - 
S - Crimp deadhangs