Did a bit of filming on a rope at the WCJ cornice, need a seat or access harness as it was a complete bastard on the old pins and the spine-in-a-bap.'Trad man' Oli has forgot his roots and been sports climbing. More films soon, hopefully not just of Oli though as yewtree will be all over me.
When I try to express what it is about climbing I've become so obsessed about I write-then-delete write-then-delete, the space bar a game of pong with words like deep and simple appearing then gone. When I try to express what it feels like to climb the words bubble up from my stomach rather than the head, that's not a metaphor but how it actually feels. The metaphor would be that there is a cork in my throat preventing this lexicon vomit, a cork that can dissolved with beer, or something, I don't know....what is the cork made of?
A great writer, and drunk, once said "you lose it if you talk about it", god knows what he meant I never met the man, but to me it can work in two ways - 1) a release of trauma or 2) a warning, to keep the indescribable exactly that and keep a fire in the belly. My favourite writing is one that puts you in their position, palm sweating. Unclesomebody's minute detailing and Alex Mason's grand missions. It feels as if the movement and action is put across but the reason for it is silent but shared, in Mason's case not so silent screaming FUCK YOU at Gogarth's coastline.
http://www.unclesomebody.com/blog/?page_id=742
http://alexmasonclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/
I like this song, painfully hipster name AND it's a remix but when the real deal kicks in it's great. i'll try to use this in a video, however the start sort of hurts my ears?
STI on saturday YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
not quite there23 February 2012, 9:45 pmWe spent another sunday at Anston one weekend but unfortunately it was just a tiny bit too wet to be able to climb properly without undeserved pings. I find these times the most frustrating as you can get by and bimble on but when you’re trying hard the scales just tip over into unusuable. I would rather have a clear cut wash out then this to be honest because when we did eventually head to that beautful crag the Wave, dans le vallee du foundry, I had a doubt in my head that maybe I could of perservered in the damp.In the time we were out of the inside James had a few goes on White light direct 8A+ which looked utterly beyond my comprehension, poor feet and poor hands at full extenstion, poor James. He made good progress and hopefully he’s done it now and just not told me yet. I have some footage from his Vanilla Sky send a few weeks back that I can put up once I have time.Jo had done the 7A+ Berretta since my last trip so gave me some advice on the end. By using this and working my own bunched cross over for the mid way point I can do it in overlapping halfs. As far as bumscraping traverses go I quite enjoy this one, just don’t look down, the last big throw and thumb sprag ear being the highlights. The crimps on this problem were suffering badly with the humidity and I took an impressive spine first lob from the top move on more than one occasion. Im glad I have a pedigree in falling over in my skates as these tumbles don’t affect me much (they do later though, when im alone in the shower, crying)I had last weekend free and both days pencilled in for rock action, however lady luck spat on my rose tinted glasses and it rained Saturday. Steve had nearly died at our house two days previosly in some form of fevour so was still completely quadraspazzed needing a lifeglug. He gave me a lift to the works and after meeting the annoyingly good Johnny and Gav climbed the new comp well set. Which is too hard and just too comp wall, y’know? Needless to say I sucked a fat one and went home. That evening had dinner with my dad for his birthday at the York in Broomhill and met his hypnotist girlfriend, he made her fall asleep at the table, im not sure I believe it as to me its like WWF wrestling, a slightly strange inclusive lie.Sunday looked like a perfect Grit day and I was excited so shunned an offer by Chris Barr to go to anston and headed off with Joble to the west side! Jo wanted to do the 7A Too drunk at the Roaches and it after warming up we wandered over. It was bloody hot and the grit felt minging, still Jo nearly nearly did it but couldn’t keep her heel from popping off which led to a knackering cut-loose. James flashed this and did the 6C+ to the right in his trainers (naughty boy). We quite litterally hot footed it over to ramshaw where my dreams of grit evapourated trying a stupid bloody shit pointless sit start to an otherwise great right to left traverse under tierdrop. I had it and apart fom an enjoyable slope up Ossie’s Bulge cut my losses. James flashed tierdrop from sit and my camera ran out of battery as he did the heroic last move, I cant prove it but I blame the grit for this event as well. On the way home we went to the Gibb tor and tried the 7A arete Stall. No exaggeration needed I think this problem is 7B or above, lovely arete but so very technical and hard to get established. All three of us felt a bit disheartened from the Grit so on the way home (actually we drove back on ourselves!) we went to Raven Tor which was dry and beautiful. Not long now you savage bastion of strength and I’ll be back again, safely suffering the delights of limestone stockholme syndrome.GET IN!Source: I know where
Quote from: comPiler on January 18, 2013, 10:14:08 amnot quite there23 February 2012, 9:45 pmWe spent another sunday at Anston one weekend but unfortunately it was just a tiny bit too wet to be able to climb properly without undeserved pings. I find these times the most frustrating as you can get by and bimble on but when you’re trying hard the scales just tip over into unusuable. I would rather have a clear cut wash out then this to be honest because when we did eventually head to that beautful crag the Wave, dans le vallee du foundry, I had a doubt in my head that maybe I could of perservered in the damp.In the time we were out of the inside James had a few goes on White flashlight direct 8A+ which looked utterly beyond my comprehension, poor feet and poor hands at full extenstion, poor James. He made good progress and hopefully he’s done it now and just not told me yet. I have some footage from his Vanilla Sky send a few weeks back that I can put up once I have time.Jo had done the 7A+ Berretta since my last trip so gave me some advice on the end. By using this and working my own bunched cross over for the mid way point I can do it in overlapping halfs. As far as bumscraping traverses go I quite enjoy this one, just don’t look down, the last big throw and thumb sprag ear being the highlights. The crimps on this problem were suffering badly with the humidity and I took an impressive spine first lob from the top move on more than one occasion. Im glad I have a pedigree in falling over in my skates as these tumbles don’t affect me much (they do later though, when im alone in the shower, crying)I had last weekend free and both days pencilled in for rock action, however lady luck spat on my rose tinted glasses and it rained Saturday. Steve had nearly died at our house two days previosly in some form of fevour so was still completely quadraspazzed needing a lifeglug. He gave me a lift to the works and after meeting the annoyingly good Johnny and Gav climbed the new comp well set. Which is too hard and just too comp wall, y’know? Needless to say I sucked a fat one and went home. That evening had dinner with my dad for his birthday at the York in Broomhill and met his hypnotist girlfriend, he made her fall asleep at the table, im not sure I believe it as to me its like WWF wrestling, a slightly strange inclusive lie.Sunday looked like a perfect Grit day and I was excited so shunned an offer by Chris Barr to go to anston and headed off with Joble to the west side! Jo wanted to do the 7A Too drunk at the Roaches and it after warming up we wandered over. It was bloody hot and the grit felt minging, still Jo nearly nearly did it but couldn’t keep her heel from popping off which led to a knackering cut-loose. James flashed this and did the 6C+ to the right in his trainers (naughty boy). We quite litterally hot footed it over to ramshaw where my dreams of grit evapourated trying a stupid bloody shit pointless sit start to an otherwise great right to left traverse under tierdrop. I had it and apart fom an enjoyable slope up Ossie’s Bulge cut my losses. James flashed tierdrop from sit and my camera ran out of battery as he did the heroic last move, I cant prove it but I blame the grit for this event as well. On the way home we went to the Gibb tor and tried the 7A arete Stall. No exaggeration needed I think this problem is 7B or above, lovely arete but so very technical and hard to get established. All three of us felt a bit disheartened from the Grit so on the way home (actually we drove back on ourselves!) we went to Raven Tor which was dry and beautiful. Not long now you savage bastion of strength and I’ll be back again, safely suffering the delights of limestone stockholme syndrome.GET IN!Source: I know wherei always wanted to do that. i don't know when will get the chance..
not quite there23 February 2012, 9:45 pmWe spent another sunday at Anston one weekend but unfortunately it was just a tiny bit too wet to be able to climb properly without undeserved pings. I find these times the most frustrating as you can get by and bimble on but when you’re trying hard the scales just tip over into unusuable. I would rather have a clear cut wash out then this to be honest because when we did eventually head to that beautful crag the Wave, dans le vallee du foundry, I had a doubt in my head that maybe I could of perservered in the damp.In the time we were out of the inside James had a few goes on White flashlight direct 8A+ which looked utterly beyond my comprehension, poor feet and poor hands at full extenstion, poor James. He made good progress and hopefully he’s done it now and just not told me yet. I have some footage from his Vanilla Sky send a few weeks back that I can put up once I have time.Jo had done the 7A+ Berretta since my last trip so gave me some advice on the end. By using this and working my own bunched cross over for the mid way point I can do it in overlapping halfs. As far as bumscraping traverses go I quite enjoy this one, just don’t look down, the last big throw and thumb sprag ear being the highlights. The crimps on this problem were suffering badly with the humidity and I took an impressive spine first lob from the top move on more than one occasion. Im glad I have a pedigree in falling over in my skates as these tumbles don’t affect me much (they do later though, when im alone in the shower, crying)I had last weekend free and both days pencilled in for rock action, however lady luck spat on my rose tinted glasses and it rained Saturday. Steve had nearly died at our house two days previosly in some form of fevour so was still completely quadraspazzed needing a lifeglug. He gave me a lift to the works and after meeting the annoyingly good Johnny and Gav climbed the new comp well set. Which is too hard and just too comp wall, y’know? Needless to say I sucked a fat one and went home. That evening had dinner with my dad for his birthday at the York in Broomhill and met his hypnotist girlfriend, he made her fall asleep at the table, im not sure I believe it as to me its like WWF wrestling, a slightly strange inclusive lie.Sunday looked like a perfect Grit day and I was excited so shunned an offer by Chris Barr to go to anston and headed off with Joble to the west side! Jo wanted to do the 7A Too drunk at the Roaches and it after warming up we wandered over. It was bloody hot and the grit felt minging, still Jo nearly nearly did it but couldn’t keep her heel from popping off which led to a knackering cut-loose. James flashed this and did the 6C+ to the right in his trainers (naughty boy). We quite litterally hot footed it over to ramshaw where my dreams of grit evapourated trying a stupid bloody shit pointless sit start to an otherwise great right to left traverse under tierdrop. I had it and apart fom an enjoyable slope up Ossie’s Bulge cut my losses. James flashed tierdrop from sit and my camera ran out of battery as he did the heroic last move, I cant prove it but I blame the grit for this event as well. On the way home we went to the Gibb tor and tried the 7A arete Stall. No exaggeration needed I think this problem is 7B or above, lovely arete but so very technical and hard to get established. All three of us felt a bit disheartened from the Grit so on the way home (actually we drove back on ourselves!) we went to Raven Tor which was dry and beautiful. Not long now you savage bastion of strength and I’ll be back again, safely suffering the delights of limestone stockholme syndrome.GET IN!Source: I know where