Hear ye, hear ye, another batch of stuff since the last lot. Mostly of the worthwhile stocking filler variety (nothing shit though, I do have standards (well the Boysen ones aren't great but we had to do them for the name)). A few beauties, notably Fool's Gold and I'll be Bob:
Cratcliffe
-Thigh Master 6c+ - Just below the Sparrow/Watermelon block is steep hanging prow. Looks a bit like a miniaturised Clippety Clop. Climb this without the base blocks. Might be harder than 6c+ without a kneepad wrapped round your thigh!
-OTE guide prob 33 6b - Not a new thing but not mentioned in any new guides, probably due to original details being very vague/confusing. Think it’s a Veale line. Cleaned and re-climbed. Excellent prob, feels a bit highball due to slopey ledge landing. Just right of the end of the Hermitage traverse, the wall continues above a sloping polished ledge. Climb the centre of this on finger slopes to a massive jug and easy exit left. Prob 32 also looks good and needs a revamp, starts at same point and breaks left to juggy rails and a crack.
-Big Triangle 6b – Another thing which must be a resurrection rather than a new problem. Between Tom Thumb and Boothill is a huge triangular block wedged across the amphitheatre. Start on the block directly below the point of the triangle, pull past the roof and continue up easy highball terrain
Stanage
-Notional Beak Down 6c+ - Up above the RH Plantation boulders, on the same buttress as Courtesy of Jonboy and National Breakdown. Sit start in break at start of NB, climb rightwards via slopers into the black finger flake, finish up this. The flake from standing is an HVS called Big Bob’s Bazzer.
-Fool’s Gold 6c+ - Just below the crag between Tower Face and The Strangler is a nice vertical wall, with a V3 called Quicksilver described in the Stanage guide climbing it’s LH side. Pounce up the centre of the wall starting with good crimp for right hand. Really rather good. FA Paul Worsdale
The wall can also be climbed right of centre at about 6b (reachy).
-The Bell Sit Start 6c – Up on the crag above the Hippo. The Bell is a way overgraded V5 stand start out of the Stanage guide up a shapely undercut scoop feature. Climb from sit start without footholds below the lip.
Curbar
-I got the Boysen 6a+ - The steep wall right of Fissure Boysen starting on undercuts
-I got the Remedy 6b – The arete right of Fissure Boysen FA Ned Feehally
-Trouser Jazz 6c+ - Nice thin seem up the slab left of The Dog’s Hole FA Ned Feehally
-I’ll be Bob E4/7a?? – Just left of Ulysses or Bust in the recess is tall phallic pillar. Monkey up the shaft to a tricky exit. Ned was fairly clueless on the grade but reckoned similar to Alliance. FA Ned Feehally
-Petit Lip 6c – Obvious r-l lip trav into the end of Petit Jesu
-Fidget SS 6b+ - A nice couple of moves and a good excuse to run another lap on Fidget
Baslow
-Piggy Biscuit 7a – On Index Buttress, which is two buttresses left of Grand Potato. Right of the start of Index Climb is a steep groove leading to a blunt slabby rib. Climb the rib from standing
Shining Cliff
-Kaiserschmas 6b
40m or so right of the Hostel is a steeply undercut buttress forming a left slanting prow. Start from good holds on the right and climb the prow (without baseblock for feet, or 6a+ with) up onto the left arete of the buttress. Rock right and traverse off or continue up and left at about E2 6a.
