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[Peak][Cratcliffe Tor][House of the Holey][7c] (Read 3121 times)

Bonjoy

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I've got a bunch of other random new things to report when I get a chance but this one is top draw IMO and deserves it's own ramble I think.
It's a sit start to Chapel of Rest on Hueco Wall into a direct/left finish.
Sit start bit is the meat of the grade and adds about six hand moves before you get to Percy's Start. The crack is in for feet (would be contrived to avoid it given you use it for feet on Chapel of Rest), good toe-hooking boots are very useful.
The upper bit is a great way to finish Chapel of Rest being only a little bit higher, harder and reachy than the normal but much more satisfying.
I did this the day after boxing day when >95% of rock in the Peak was wet, including the normal topout on CoR and Wish. I.e. it is a very good bet in marginal conditions. The topout was wet and muddy due to having just been unearthed (literally), but should also be quick drying in future.
Here is a shit video. I don't have a tripod and managed to trim the bottom of the prob off  :-[. As proof of ascent it is thus totally useless as I could be stood on the floor for the crux, but it gives you some idea. Also sorry for the grizzly noises. If I had more time and was less lazy I'd drown them out with some well selected folk music (maybe a bit of Bryan Tandi), hey ho. Oh and the wobbly voiced shout at the top, in my defense I had just survived a mudfest topout above one pad width and no spotter so was quite relieved.

« Last Edit: January 04, 2013, 07:13:00 pm by Bonjoy »

Fiend

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I like the beegoose squawks, I think they are proof in themselves. Nice one.

dave

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Had a look at this problem today (piss wet through). Looks good. I'll have a go next time I'm there in better weather.

Reckon it would go at a much higher grade without the crack for feet and would make a great problem, to me fairly logical as you don't (if assuming everyone else does it the way we did) us that crack for feet on percy's. Topping out sans crack for feet should be OK I would have thought, although if that sitter goes without crack then I dare say the method of topping out would be irrelevant. From the comfort of my wet-crag-armchair I think you could get into undercutting that top scoop fairly directly from below, probably hard but would keep you well away from the crack.

Bonjoy

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I did toy with that idea but the pull on is problematic. As is often the way with sit starts to walls pulling on this way would be the crux and super awkward due to the slope of the ground. If it goes it will be a decent eliminate I suppose. Maybe sit starting on a stack of pads would avoid the feet way above arse height issue.
I got caught out thinking it would be dry after drizzle. The wall is bloody good at staying dry in most weather, but not actually that quick drying when it does crap out.

monkey boy

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Went to do this today after cleaning the snow off the top yesterday. It's a great boulder problem and deserves more attention.

 

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