Training 8 hours sleep per night- it's become clear to me that this (or lack of it) is the major factor in how well I climb. Got between 7.5 and 8 most nights. Probably only 10 or so nights when I got less than 6.5 and I really felt it! I need my sleep to climb and train effectively for sure.Weekly fingerboard use- if I apply myself to training my fingers as much as I applied myself to my core last year I can see good results I reckon. Most of the year I was climbing despite finger injuries I was ignoring so finger training was out. Only in the autumn did I rest enough to fix them and I saw big gains by doing this and finally sticking to my fingerboard plan. Not going to kid myself about finger tweaks from now on.Keeping a training diary and stretching every day were targets from last year that I maintained 'til October- this year I want to keep them going right the way through. Tick!Trad E2. Should surely be a matter of simply tying in and climbing one. So in that case, E3 as well. Didn't try any E2s, let alone E3s. A grad total of 3 E-points all year. Climb at at least one new trad area. Gogarth would be good. Didn't go to any trad areas I hadn't been to before. Barely did any trad.Sport 7b. Did four 7as and close but no cigar on 7a+. Tried some 7bs but didn't have more than one session on any. Something Stupid at Malham seems a good bet- I'd love to do Obsession as well, considering crimping is my biggest weakness this might be optimistic, but aim high etc. Went to Malham twice but didn't try either of these routes. Venue-wise I'd like to go to Kilnsey, Portland and Chee Dale- all places I'm ashamed to admit I've never climbed.Bouldering 7B might be optimistic but fuck it. Three 7As, worked on plenty of harder problems but no success yet.I'm determined to go back to the US- I met people who are up for climbing with me over there in many places, enough to go for months. Whether I'll manage that I don't know but even another two weeks in the Red would be ace. Had three amazing weeks back in the Red, from which my physical and metal climbing games have improved dramatically.
Sport:First 7b - Butterfly Collector - Ruthin (Was on this at the weekend, hopefully get ticked this Sunday)Walking With Barrance - DinbrenSunny Side Up Mix - Craig ArthurEnded up ticking 7 7b's! Happy days!Try something harder - possibly a 7b+ or 7c that looks inspiring. Tick! Did my first 7b+On-sight a 7a - Few possibilities around maybe something at Pinfold or The Marsh Flower at Craig Arthur. Fail - Didn't really try on-sighting any, only did a handful in that grade most within a couple of goes.Bouldering:More V6's and a first V7. Middle Undercut V7 at Hope Mnt. Did 2 7A's this year but barely bouldered. V7 still seems some way off!Trip to Font in October - Get some good ticks and make a video Trip to Font went ahead. Didn't climb well at all, enjoyed being there with the family though!Trad:Get some routes of any grade in. Don't trad climb enough. Headpoint something hard this year. Possibly E6/E7. . . Shoot To Thrill at Pinfold? Trad was a massive fail, just can't get psyched for it. Did one route a 3 star E2 5c at Worlds End.Fingerboard:Carry on with Repeater workout and mix it up every 6 weeks. Didn't mix up repeaters but did loads of fingerboarding. Weighted hangs etc. I don't think finger strength is my limiting factor.Everything Else:Finish bolting and climb my project. Tick! Ended up being a cool 7b and has had about 10 repeats.Head to some new areas - Malham, Kilnsey, Chee Dale. Fail. Had it all planned to head to Malham/Kilnsey for my Birthday in July but the weather was terrible so had to call it off.Climb more on the Orme. Tick! Now my favorite place. Did some great Routes. String of Pearls (6b+), Under the Boardwalk (6c), Pink Pinky (7a), Face Race (7a+) and Axle Attack (7a+)Boulder as well as Sport in the summer instead of sacking off bouldering altogether like last year. Massive fail. Didn't boulder at all in the summer! Had a great sport season though!
I didn't post any goal for 2013, because last year at this moment climbing was my enemy, something useless, stupid and selfish. Work and relationship were a mess and I could not find a way. I found my aims while pursueing them, in an unexpected way. Change my life from scratch. Job, town, relationships, study, climbing also. So, looking back in hindsight, everything now seems doable - done, in fact - but at that moment I didn't even know where to start from. I entered a 1st level degree Master in Criminology. I went back into legal practice. I dropped my job in Florence, found another one in Siena and stopped commuting. I passed a Spanish exam that can lead me to be a lawyer in Spain and work there. I took my master. I met some girls and now am dating one for six months. This could easily sound as presumptuous and blowing my trumpet, and it is, to some extent, but it's also to remind me how hard it's been and how rewarding. Last december I had nothing or so it seemed, now I have something. I can even enjoy some climbing, once in a while.
Mine are really a repeat of last year's...Onsight E4 consistently. Hardly got on any last year, and chose bad ones when I did. This also involves rocking up to the crag with routes in mind and being motivated to go for it. Reasonable, didn't get on many though. Got a couple of big ticks I'd wanted.Onsight a couple of proper E5s. Only tried one, had a decent go, but took a ride from the finishing moves.Get on a Peak 8a that I'm motivated to do. E.g. Unleashing. Got on a few, know what sort of work would be needed to get me up them now and it definitely felt feasible.Flash 7b. Only tried to flash a couple, got both second go, one of which I really should have nailed!3 Font 7a+ and 1 7B. Ticked the 7A+ ones, progress there, close on 7B, but no cigar. I think this and 8a will require the same training though, since my bouldering strength is what has held me back on the 8a routes I've been on.Use fingerboard at least twice a week over the winter.Money and time dependent it would be good to get some big routes done in Yosemite/Dolomites/Verdon or similar, at the expense of the other goals, but we'll see! Fail, didn't climb abroad this year. Next year's a goer though!
Quote from: shark on January 01, 2013, 03:04:58 pmeatswood Traverse After a couple of near misses YYFY on 20th FebLady Big Claque Font was a washout at Easter so didn't even get on it Killerweed Been working on the Perverse Reverse start footless - if I can get rid of corns on top of foot then this should go easier with toe hooks or heel toeAustrian Oak From Mar-start May had 13 sessions and no progress on last year. Working on getting stronger for it in the Autumn Anger Management Good progress on this currently, shame about heat Do the moves on Mecca Not even sure why I put this up as an aim Re-bolt some Peak routes starting with Tin Of Placed 5 Bolts at Tor so far Onsight a 7c Booked to go to Kalymnos with son for a week in October so will try this then10,000 8a nu points Again, depends on how Kalymnos goes2 new routes I've got my eye on One down, one to goOne arm an edge Started training for this again. Currently need +5kg on right on BM slot
eatswood Traverse After a couple of near misses YYFY on 20th FebLady Big Claque Font was a washout at Easter so didn't even get on it Killerweed Been working on the Perverse Reverse start footless - if I can get rid of corns on top of foot then this should go easier with toe hooks or heel toeAustrian Oak From Mar-start May had 13 sessions and no progress on last year. Working on getting stronger for it in the Autumn Anger Management Good progress on this currently, shame about heat Do the moves on Mecca Not even sure why I put this up as an aim Re-bolt some Peak routes starting with Tin Of Placed 5 Bolts at Tor so far Onsight a 7c Booked to go to Kalymnos with son for a week in October so will try this then10,000 8a nu points Again, depends on how Kalymnos goes2 new routes I've got my eye on One down, one to goOne arm an edge Started training for this again. Currently need +5kg on right on BM slot
Quote from: 205Chris on January 02, 2013, 07:03:18 pmI immediately regret writing this as normally my plans are massively over ambitious. In an attempt to manage my expectations I've kept it as vague as possible:i. Stop wasting my time on anything other than inspiring problemsMore or less successful. Certainly better venue / problem choice than previous years.ii. Climb more stuff outside the peakTrips to Yorkshire, Northumberland and Wales. While not as extensive a list as it could be, again better than previous years iii. Reiver (see aims i & ii.)Boom! Bank Holiday ground up tick in a sessioniv. Font 7C+ (must meet criteria of aim no. i)Did Heaven in your Hands, not convinced it's 7c+ but to be honest I wanted to climb this regardless of the grade. Got close on a couple of other 7C+s, hopefully one for 2014.v. Finish my on - off 4 year affair with Arch Enemies (ideally this would be completed tops off for power style in front of a bunch of hot female tourists who all want to sleep with me afterwards)Fail. Got on it but fell off the penultimate move and then couldn't find willing belayers. 2014 for sure. vi. Be less shallow (see aim no. v)It seems publicly stating my goals has either galvanised me into action or I should have been more ambitious
I immediately regret writing this as normally my plans are massively over ambitious. In an attempt to manage my expectations I've kept it as vague as possible:i. Stop wasting my time on anything other than inspiring problemsMore or less successful. Certainly better venue / problem choice than previous years.ii. Climb more stuff outside the peakTrips to Yorkshire, Northumberland and Wales. While not as extensive a list as it could be, again better than previous years iii. Reiver (see aims i & ii.)Boom! Bank Holiday ground up tick in a sessioniv. Font 7C+ (must meet criteria of aim no. i)Did Heaven in your Hands, not convinced it's 7c+ but to be honest I wanted to climb this regardless of the grade. Got close on a couple of other 7C+s, hopefully one for 2014.v. Finish my on - off 4 year affair with Arch Enemies (ideally this would be completed tops off for power style in front of a bunch of hot female tourists who all want to sleep with me afterwards)Fail. Got on it but fell off the penultimate move and then couldn't find willing belayers. 2014 for sure. vi. Be less shallow (see aim no. v)
My 2012 was pretty shite in terms of bulk climbing. 48 logged climbs.. I did however manage to climb my hardest boulder and spend a month and a bit in the Alps. So more of that please and over a hundred climbs this time.
Same aim as Last Year.Get up the Beast.All holds found, moves held, and Psyche Found, all I need to do now is Start Training.....Off to do some Press Ups!
Kick a goose in the scrot'
Consolidate at 7C. Snatch and Great White should help this, I just need to hold onto jugs....Did Snatch,good, got really close to great white at various stages but didnt do it, havent been on it recently, roll over for 2014. Did various other 7C'sGet my first 7C+ and do more of the grade (Rock Atrocity wobbly block, lou ferrino I'm most keen for) Need suggestions for good bloc style 7C+'s in Wales and ze peak.hmm, maybe snatch is 7C+, Highline gets it in the guide but its obviously not, tried western eyes, feels alright but not really close. lowrider is hard and didnt go to the other two.Trad.... hhmm... Nah.success. less than 10 trad routes all yearDo more highballing! Art nouveau, Tierdrop, Narcissus, Chip Shop Brawl, Shine On (With snow)Flashed tierdrop, did chip shop twice, didnt like Shine On and havent been to Art Nouveau, Flashed Power of the Darkside with loads of pads and that was goodSport.... hhmmm.... maybe, do something respectable at a crag I like or a route I actually enjoy or even just try to redpoint something. 3 redpoints on Rubicon later and sport 7a still evades me. I am shit Big aim: Font 8A.... Joker, Diesel Power, Pools of Bethasda (8A+ but looks amazing), Careless Torque Fail, Can barely get my foot up on the joker, havent tried the other three,close to westworld but its 7C+, Delayed Devotion was tried briefly with the conclusion that its hard.Actually do some training to complete the last aim.No real training
Lots of big maybes.- Climb harder on grit, ie E9. Success on this front for sure.- Try and flash masters edge. No attempt as of yet, maybe this winter, doubtful- 7C+ or maybe even 8A boulders. Hit a wall with bouldering, have to train to get better and therefore have not. Done plenty of 7c's mind.- Climb 8a+ sport at home. very nearly, robbed by oppressive heat then wetness. - Get fit and climb 8a sport abroad this spring/autumn. Success, did two 8as in sella.- Go to the Mournes and try some of the underdevloped classics. This year hopefully.- Get to Northumberland and other UK areas I've never been to. Went to wales a few times and lulworth, no northumberland though.- Decide on Uni. Sorted and happy in sheffield.
Quote from: JackAus on February 17, 2013, 10:51:00 amFont 7b by the end of the year sounds good and is more than attainable.. Working on it. Made plenty of progress...Boulder and DWS developing... Shit loads around here. Got some good bouldering being developed. DWS will have to wait until it gets abit warmer but have got some walls in mind.Get down to the Grampians this winter too. Check! Going down there in 2 weeks for a week.... Can't fucking wait...Ugh. Had a big 2 month break from climbing right in the middle of winter. Fucked if I know why, it just happened and I only got on rock for a day a month... V8 aint gonna happen this year unless some miracle happens... Lets try for V7..Developing... Plenty of development going on. Put up about 30 problems so far at various crags with a shit-tonne of projects. Just getting warm enough for DWS, was out last week looking for walls, access, approaches etc. Hopefully get on a couple tomorrow.Grampians. Check. Had a good first week there. Although I told myself not to just rush at everything because I'll be back alot... Of course, I just hit everything... Nearly got a couple of V7s, close to a V8 and 1 move off a V9... Awesome lowball compression up a prow. All I had to do was move my left foot 12 inches up the prow and I would've had it... Pretty pissed by that but I did start trying it on my 4th day on, then got back on it on my last. No rest days either dumbass.Entered in the next round of the NSW State bouldering comp aswell. As long as I don't do too shit in that... I'm more interested in the next day, putting up new problems in a new area just outside Canberra.
Font 7b by the end of the year sounds good and is more than attainable.. Working on it. Made plenty of progress...Boulder and DWS developing... Shit loads around here. Got some good bouldering being developed. DWS will have to wait until it gets abit warmer but have got some walls in mind.Get down to the Grampians this winter too. Check! Going down there in 2 weeks for a week.... Can't fucking wait...
get the board back out of calums garage and build it in the cellar. FAILThen train like a demon and lose a load of weight and become a beast. FAIL - fatter and weaker than everAlso climb in the 7's again Did 1
Quote from: GuyVG on December 31, 2012, 10:12:19 am1. Do the Knock, Nosferatu, No More Excuses and Tracka'thacat (dont deck on wings)Knock and Nosferatu. Didn't go to Roaches skyline and too many excuses 1a. Boulder 7b - Monochrome, My Apple, PowerHumpsnot really bouldered2. 7c sport RP - Obsene Gesture/Toilet, New Dawn, Let the tripe increase etcObscene Gesture, let the tripe increase felt way hard in comparison 3. Onsight a mega 7a/+ home or abroad Onsighted Bueno Bueno in Siurana 4. Trad E3/4 - Memory Lane, Adjudicator Wall, Flaky Wall, PembrokeDid wee doris and a good haul of E3's at High Tor, retreated from the start of flaky, just couldn't get my head around it. Big whipper off Darius which was disappointing but memorable 5. Get to Pembroke and Catalunyatick on both6. Get out of flat into housemoving into new flat and wheels in motion on property number one7. Develop girlfriend holiday into DWS trip to Mallorca (wheels in motion)went with gf, terrible hotel package deal but got a few routes in at cala barques8. Move out of photograhic punterdom and make longer/better videos throughout yearThis is going well, got a project that should be quite funny. Photos are coming along but still more machine than man 9. If it rains for another month scrap all the above and leave the sinking kingdomit was a bloody good summer, first time in the alps and did a north face, really happy with 2013
1. Do the Knock, Nosferatu, No More Excuses and Tracka'thacat (dont deck on wings)Knock and Nosferatu. Didn't go to Roaches skyline and too many excuses 1a. Boulder 7b - Monochrome, My Apple, PowerHumpsnot really bouldered2. 7c sport RP - Obsene Gesture/Toilet, New Dawn, Let the tripe increase etcObscene Gesture, let the tripe increase felt way hard in comparison 3. Onsight a mega 7a/+ home or abroad Onsighted Bueno Bueno in Siurana 4. Trad E3/4 - Memory Lane, Adjudicator Wall, Flaky Wall, PembrokeDid wee doris and a good haul of E3's at High Tor, retreated from the start of flaky, just couldn't get my head around it. Big whipper off Darius which was disappointing but memorable 5. Get to Pembroke and Catalunyatick on both6. Get out of flat into housemoving into new flat and wheels in motion on property number one7. Develop girlfriend holiday into DWS trip to Mallorca (wheels in motion)went with gf, terrible hotel package deal but got a few routes in at cala barques8. Move out of photograhic punterdom and make longer/better videos throughout yearThis is going well, got a project that should be quite funny. Photos are coming along but still more machine than man 9. If it rains for another month scrap all the above and leave the sinking kingdomit was a bloody good summer, first time in the alps and did a north face, really happy with 2013
Quote from: Luke Owens on January 15, 2013, 09:58:42 amMore V6's and a first V7. Middle Undercut V7 at Hope Mnt. Did 2 7A's this year but barely bouldered. V7 still seems some way off!
More V6's and a first V7. Middle Undercut V7 at Hope Mnt. Did 2 7A's this year but barely bouldered. V7 still seems some way off!
- Have a good trip to Ceuse in July - drag myself up an 8a (hopefully Carte Blanche) and get some good 7's done (Berlin, Super Mickey, Lapinerie all in mind) Had a great trip, didn't try any 8a's but did a lot of low to mid 7's. Onsighted lots of 7a & 7a+, and did first 7b onsight (2001 - L'odyssée du Grimpeur). Surprised myself by doing Vagabond (7c) after one quick warm up play, this isn't usually my style. Gonna give myself the green light on this one.- Train PE properly and get route fit ahead of aforementioned trip tick- Get out lots locally at weekends Did ok at this, but a lot of weekends seemed to be taken up with other things.- Make the effort to get out after work in the summer Again, did ok with some good after work sessions at Ban-y-gor and Trym, but could have done better.- Get lots of mileage at 7b to 7c+ This year 5 7b+ (nearly all 1st RP), 2 7c's (1 flashed, 1 in a 1 hour session) and 1 7c+ (in a 2 hour session). So getting them done quick, but not getting on enough. Feel reasonably confident at this grade so going for the yellow on this.- Finish off Liquid Crystal once it's dry again (after falling off last move in October) First 8a YYFY! Did this in May in shitty humid conditions, very happy. Superceded this and unexpectedly managed my first (soft) 8a+ in October (Masada at Witches Point). Brilliant route.- Get down to Cornish granite at least a couple of times Once in February, basically got spanked.- Get to Pembroke at least a few times and try harder 1 weekend in September, didn't get on anything hard (to be fair it was misty / wet). Not done much trad this year.- Do some bouldering, would be nice to tick 7B Barely any (outdoor) bouldering, though had a really good week in font in October where I did a few 7A's and came very close on 2 7B+'s.- Try and get rid off / avoid niggling finger injuries Hmm, no major issues but have had niggles over the last few months since switching training back from routes to bouldering. Up until about August (route training) fingers were fine.Specific local routes I'd like to at least get on: Lurking Sear (Wintours) Did in a short sessionAcademic (Avon) Gone to have a look at a couple of times but has been soaking. Will get on this soon.Featherless Biped (Avon) NopeArms Race (Avon) NopeRight-Hand Man (Cheddar) NopeShock of the New (Cheddar) NopeDriller Killer (Cheddar) NopeFollow the Slick Red Road (Cheddar) NopeBird of Paradise (Cheddar) NopeManchmals (Cheddar) Tried, did the first half ok but didn't like the top part much. May come back to.House Burning Down (Cheddar) TickBerlin (Dinas) Still not been hereH1N1 (Dinas) Still not been hereEmpire (Ansteys) Still not been hereCider Soak (Ansteys) Still not been here
1. First visit to Dartmoor for a very long time booked for May. Just hoping for good weather. Then onto Dorset.2. Transfer plastic gains into real climbing gains.3. Climb outside more.4. Finally move flat and actually have an internal wall to hang a fingerboard on. Oh, and some space to put stuff in too. And maybe even a doorway to put a pull-up bar in.and mainly5. Don't get too injured.
Big numbers:9a Didn't try one, except for ruining Pilgrimage8b onsight/flash Shoulda, coulda, wouldaSpecifics:AbyssDidn't go there, didn't want to take the risk of wetness after a bad spring/summer for FrancePilgrimage Say my name bitchesEvolution Is this the hardest route in the world? Yes. Kaabah Enjoyed this a lotTrue North Complete with funky toe-hook trickery for the cruxVolume:10 8c (all time) 812 8b+ (all time) 1120 8b (all time) yuh huh50 8s onsight/flash (all time) 55. An RRG trip consisting almost entirely of onsighting and flashing sorted this out nicely at the expense of RP mileage5 8a+ or harder onsights (all time) +muthafuckin1 on the above. Still too many shoulda/coulda/wouldas though8A+ that's actually a boulder Still weak
1. 109 7a's on the bolts. Barney Rubble - Torbryan (is this really 7a+? Did it second go so it is probably soft! Promising start and then the year disappeared...2. Klondike, Pocket City and Solid Gold at Pen Trwyn. Been but not tried3. The Big Groove and Rat Race on Main Cliff. Not been4. Red Wall on Red Wall. Not been5. Something easy at the easy end of North Stack Wall. Not been6. Go to Pembroke at least once (no trips this year) and do another route in the leap. (Maybe Bloody Sunday if I have a cup of MTFU). Hooray. Pembroke's great! Sat on a wire low down on Bloody Sunday, but got on with it after that!7. Go to Cornwall (Bosigran and Sharpnose are pre-requisites). Taking a pass for this, didn't go to Sharpnose or Bosigran because I have a stupid dog, but I did have a lovely trip!8. Climb in the Pass a bit more. Had a nice little trip there for a few days. It's nice when the weather's good innit.9. Get on Laurin or Flaky Wall at High Tor. Not been10.Something on Craig Arthur. Maybe Manikins of Horror.
Pray for a dry 2013Strap my ball bag on and climb an E6 grit route this winter.Continue to develope and train hard on my 45 and barrel.Clip my way up an 8a in the summer.Sail the 7c's
Jan/Feb - produce some cold, crisp days perfect for the gritSpring - lots of long dry spells to dry the limestone nicelySummer - stable temps so the Tor (and cornice, rubicon, Malham, Kilnsey etc) isn't condensed to fuck every morning combined with some pleasant breezy days for grit routers to maybe explore the Moors with their new guidesAutumn - long and lingering with the limestone season extending into a cold but not freezing November to ensure good nick for maximum sendage potentialNov/Dec - some nice cold snaps for early grit season motivation