Although you don't mention it in your post, are you in fact just worried about / scared of taking a fall?
I remember Falling Down introducing me to this idea
Started with the chucking myself off training today. Quite untraumatic; almost enjoyable after I got over that always surprising initial supririse at how far one goes with a nice soft catch. Five falls, two of them over the lip of a roof which - quite irrationally I know - is generally the situation in which I'm most nervous.
Have you tried doing the clip drop technique?
Quote from: joel182 on January 05, 2013, 08:50:35 pmHave you tried doing the clip drop technique?I discovered that in the right situation - flat panels, clean drop - I'm already ok with going from a bit above the bolt. But there's a particular sector at my local wall where I'm especially shy of falling. It's a bit higher than the average indoor wall - 17 metres - a bit dimly lit & foreboding at the top in the evening when I'm usually there, and has moulded/featured panels where it feels like there might be something to hit on the way down. Although it's predominantly overhanging so in reality probably not. One way to find out ...Excellent! Now I have a plan: clip drop on that sector on my next visit.
Wondered if you'd tried the sector you were scared with yet? I've found that I tend to be fairly unafraid on the small lead walls at my wall, but the large ones start scaring me.
I've noticed that doing fall practice seems to be a really unusual thing amongst people I climb with, and I'm not really sure what - if anything - to do about that. I think it would be a good thing if it was much more common to see people taking regular falls at climbing walls.
Quote from: joel182 on January 13, 2013, 12:42:36 amWondered if you'd tried the sector you were scared with yet? I've found that I tend to be fairly unafraid on the small lead walls at my wall, but the large ones start scaring me. Yes I did. Took three falls from around mid-height, but found I still wasn't (yet) willing to take any more from near the top, and was still scared when I was having difficulties on a route in the same sector later on in the evening. But it's a start.
QuoteI've noticed that doing fall practice seems to be a really unusual thing amongst people I climb with, and I'm not really sure what - if anything - to do about that. I think it would be a good thing if it was much more common to see people taking regular falls at climbing walls.I've noticed that it turns a lot of heads when I do it too. The DAV runs regular belay/fall training sessions at my local walls, and lots of people attend them, but few seem to do much/any systematic practice outside of those sessions.
I've noticed that it turns a lot of heads when I do it too. The DAV runs regular belay/fall training sessions at my local walls, and lots of people attend them, but few seem to do much/any systematic practice outside of those sessions.
no matter how comfortable i was with practice falls, it's still completely different from falling when you're not in control, for me at least
Yeah. I remember reading something to the same effect on Mark McGowan's coaching blog: he reckons the carry-over (or training specificity) from deliberately chucking oneself off a climbing wall, to really going a muerte on a route, is limited.
I've found it carries-over: even small amounts of indoor fall-training helps me relax on lead and go for it a little more, if not exactly a muerte .