[Jim]

Problem 9 pg 298 in YGB on Overhang Group, arete described as perplexing - any easier methods to do this? me and dense went:
right - mono pocket thing on right, left - big flat undercut, feet on obvious holds. Reach through with right hand to get slopey hold high on arete with thumb in side crack, left foot next to right but higher up, right foot over lip onto obvious blob pull through and get pocket with left and right through to top. This felt alot harder than V4 and it seemed like there would be an easier way to do it
Also how does the Sheriff finish without the arete and whats the beta for the problem that finishes up and left or is this the same thing?
Cheers

[Pantontino]

I think I know the problem you mean (haven't got guide with me), and it sounds like you got the right sequence. It is a bit heightist, if I remember rightly. I'll check when I get home.

The Sheriff can be finished with or without the arete - the grade is similar (i.e. about V8). Andy Swann climbed the left hand exit, which breaks out left to gain an edge on the face, before topping out. Definitely a different problem (V9 I think?).

Did you do Angel Face? I'm guessing this was overgraded too?

[Jim]

Not done angel face, didn't make it down to cligen face, too tired after doing the sheriff 30 times (kept falling of last move :x  ie easy slap for top from arete) and then doing all the problems on cave buttress except done years ago. Is this just a scary jump to the break?

[Mike_H]

Word Jim

As resident local, I guess I should give you the beta.

Basically get your feet as high up the slab as possible, and then I reach up and put a finger lock of sorts in. Once there, there is then a small nubbin on the left side of the arete to stand on.

As you say, there is an alternative with stepping your right foot on, all in all height does play in major part in the problem.

[a dense loner]

mike, do u know the beta for sheriff left hand? was goin to get finger lock / layaway wi right hand, but couldn't/too tired to work out any foot beta.
ps. the traffic warden who accosted me on top was outstandin

[Jim]

she was only using you to get to me

[Jim]

ps when did them silly white bollards go up?

[Pantontino]

I could do the V4 arete thang 2 slightly different ways: originally I went up with my left for some crappy tips jam thing, then utched up and matched on a crimp, before rocking out right on the sloping boss.

I later realised it was easier to shuffle up and reach the crimp first with my right. I have got arms as long as the Pennine way though.

I've no idea how to do Swanny's problem though - I did try it briefly, but couldn't get myself turned onto the left side of the crack.

Good to see a bit of enthusiam for 'The Rocks' - I still reckon Piton Crack is a contender for the best boulder problem (of its grade) in Yorkshire; even if it is pipped to the post by Horror Arete, it's still an awesome problem. And Clingen is totally classic.

[Mike_H]

I've got to say I've never ever tried the Sheriff never mind the left hand version - so can't give the beta. I've always thought it was too hard for me, hence never trying but the way things are going at the moment I should really pull my finger out. I'll try and report back next week when I get up there.

Dense - what traffic warden?

The bollards have been up for about 4 - 5 months, as alot of local residents were complaining of people (read Asian breathen) going up and down at night until the very early hours of the morning.

I think it has been done as a temporary measure, with a view to implementing it as a long standing arrangement.

As for Piton Crack, it is an absolutely amazing problem. Only did it about 2 weeks ago. I've only ever tried it by myself a couple of times before, but had a mate down with me and amazed myself at pulling over the top.

[a dense loner]

don't worry mike there are no double yellows there. wasp was just walkin on other side of road when she made a beeline for me n started chattin. then jim spoilt the mood by gettin out of the car  :evil:  
get on sheriff tho, quality prob.

[Jim]

actually I think she was the rozz, not a traffic warden, but she was attractive.
The sheriff - absolute quality problem, get to it mike. think I might be going back to figure out the finish without the arete and the left hand finish very soon -any one got beta?
Piton crack - always looked too high for me, but now I've got the extra foam in my XXL pad, might have to give it a go
The V4 arete, I've only got shortish arms (ape=0 & 5'11) but I managed to get the crimp sloper thing. still felt hard for V4.