[chappers]

one for nigel/neil or greg (again).
right the problem goes from bottom of Angel Deelite, left through  the roof on that slopy rail then up into the painfull finger locks in that crack....
does it then go straight up for the flat hold then to the break....or...
go from the locks across the bulge and up left wards??

also good work greg on hybred moments, monster :bat: . that drop down onto the jug in angel deelite is tough. also ta for the mega beta on angel deelite flashed it  :D .

hybred moments is now my project for the near (and probs longer) future.

[Doylo]

Ha ha i'm gonna steal their thunder. It does go from the locks across the bulge and up left wards to positive crimps to finish. This is what i did, right hand over onto finger lock, left hand to flat finger hold, right hand to flat sidepull, left hand to sidepull on the other side, left heel goes round to lock you on, arrange dodgy finger jam with left, drop left foot down again and then i think its a small undercut type sidepull type thing for your right, bring your feet up and bobs yer uncle. I think i remembered that right :?: Its a pretty complex problem, think Greg did it a nails way first.

[chappers]

thanks,
we didnt have a topo last nite, so what we were doing was getting to the crack, left in finger lock at the bottom, right further up. left out onto that slopey thing, then yard with left up to a flat hold, then sidepulls to top (not that i did it :cry: well and truly burned off by my mate). but he didnt think that way was v9.
ill give it a go on saturday across the bulge.

ta, chappers

[Greg C]

Oh you old salt Chris  :D

Yeah Chris's beta is about the most widely used now a days and the way I did it on Hybrid Moments. Worth pointing out that the dodgy finger jam left of the bulge needs to be in a lay away fashion rather than a pinch.

I'll give you the beta I used on the first ascent so you can laugh ar how stupid I am  :roll:  
From the end of the rail - Finger lock right, flat hold on bulge left, flat side pull right, pinch in crack left, now dyno with your right hand across yourself (feet come off at this point) to a rubbish slopey crimp above the left hand pinch, right foot up and through with your left hand to the good edge. This is the proper method  :wink: and any other method is just plain cheating   !!! I therefore proclaim this problem unrepeated  :!:

[Greg C]

Hey chappers did you do Turbulence its quality, put it on your tick list if you havn't  :D

[Greg C]

Hey Chappers just read your post that your mate did not think it was V9. If you went up Superstar DJ? To the flat hold then accross thats not the line, it stays on the lip of the bulge. If he did then fair enough, most people seem to think its graded about right.

[chappers]

nah, he didnt go through the bulge on the lip, he effectively went straight up from the end of the rail (he thought bout v8 poss- no topo) through the vertical crack, no disputes that through the bulge is propper v9 (i couldnt touch it last nite   ).
your original beta sounds about v15!!! effort!!!

ill be up there on saturday evening if the weather holds, to try it propper then.

[chappers]

and Turbulence is well and truly etched into my tick list! i gave it a go last nite, got established in the crack with my feet out left, but.... i fall off trying to get the undercling near the lip to get the sloper .
do you use the side pull over the lip to get the bigger sloper further up?

[Adam Lincoln]

and Turbulence is well and truly etched into my tick list! i gave it a go last nite, got established in the crack with my feet out left, but.... i fall off trying to get the undercling near the lip to get the sloper .
do you use the side pull over the lip to get the bigger sloper further up?

Theres a cheeky knee bar to help you along the way around this point  :wink:

[chappers]

RIGHT!!!! just seen the topo. he did "Spinner Link" from the bottom of Angel Deelite (because our eventual aim is to do Hybred Moments).
at last all is clear!

adam, ta for the beta, ill give it a go.

[Greg C]

You do know Hybrid Moments Starts at Yes Minister and finishes through Blood Sugar and not the Spinner link don't you?  :?

[Greg C]

Hey Adam did you use the knee bar on Turbulance on your claimed ascent?  :D

[Adam Lincoln]

Hey Adam did you use the knee bar on Turbulance on your claimed ascent?  :D

The only reason i know about the knee bar is the Pasquill used it on his ascent! Think you need 5 foot legs to get it in?

[Nigel]

I want to join in but I can't think of anything worthwhile to say    Fucking brilliant problem though.

[chappers]

yeah, i only new about the problems from a forum when u said about doing hybred. i forgot my topo last nite, so i couldnt envisage where the true line went. previously i went on what the mag said when i wanted to flash Angel Deelite. (last nite was my second time at o'ert road)

i know now, and im pretty psyched for doing blood sugar :twisted:

awesome crag, miles better than wood well original.

[Nigel]

Aye lad, it is much better than the other Woodwell. There used to be beta for Turbulence on Greg's site, don't know if its still accessible? Saw you say on the other thread that the weather was bad up there. O'ert Road could well still be dry - the underneath only gets wet from seepage which won't have come through yet I shouldn't think, and the lip upwards very rarely gets wet in rain (i.e. only when it is pissing it down ridiculously hard!). I reckon you could definately get stuff done (guess!).

[chappers]

ta man, might check it out. stopped raining now and brightened up a bit, although i do have a mega hangover so may not be too productive!

[a dense loner]

damn, i thought woodwell was much better than o'ert road, u must be able to tell by now that i'm sick, speakin of which minus 10 2day  :wink:
me n irish si nearly came to blows over which woodwell was better, but he had the edge on me so now i believe he is working as a fluffer in order to pay for his trip to the states  :D

[chappers]

dispite o'ert road being better, it dont mean that i can do blood sugar!
went up there yesturday, greg showed us the beta and i still couldnt touch it (and now my fingers are fucked).
had to retire to normal woodwell where we can all do more than one problem each!