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[Peak][Secret Garden, Froggatt, Curbar, Cratcliffe][15 probs 6a - 7a+/7b] (Read 2435 times)

Bonjoy

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Have done a fair few, mostly minor, new (or at least unrecorded) things in the last month or so. All on pb.info, but here’s a catch-up of these plus one from Jamie Lilleman for anyone interested who doesn’t want to pick through that site.

Secret Garden
   Right Hand Man 7a+ - Wall just right of Dick Williams, starting in low break on mono, trend left on small pockets to finish up RHS of DW arete. A poorly recorded/described 7b+ known as Nigel’s (other) Problem  is somewhere round here, from what I can tell this starts at DW and trends right to finish up ‘Buoux Style Pockets’.

  Big Mouth Rock – this is the large toad like boulder close to the road 100m east of the Surprise View car park. Worth a stop off on route to Secret Garden.

   Big Mouth Shiner 6b – The central rib on the front face from standing. Bail at the ledge/break. Obvious scary continuation still to do.

   Bigmouth Strikes Again 7a – 2m right of the central rib. Sit start at pinch and pocket, climb direct on slopers. As above, scary continuation still to do.

   Monster Mouth 6b+ - On the right side wall. Start in pit, cross wide break trending left to slopey mantel


Froggatt
   Spinal Countdown 6c+ - Fairly trivial but fun ‘line’ between Spinal Crack and Spinal Tap climbing bookend prow. SS as per ST.

Curbar
   Beeched Whale 7a+/7b – On a cave boulder 50m down the hill below Beech Buttress (last rock before Froggatt). SS at the back and climb out the roof with the help of the right arete to finish up the slopey front. FA Jamie Lilleman (grade my guess)

   Nottingham Catchfly 6b – Also in the Beech Buttress area. Climb the sharp arete between Campion Groove and Campion Wall

   Fissure Boysen sit start 6b+ - Some more nice moves on this obscure gem.

   Crispy Noodling 6b+ - On same block as Crispy Roof (see Froggatt guide), this is high on the edge between Cioch Buttress and Moon Butress, very near Cloud Cuckoo and the Trench problems. Undoubtedly done by others before but never recorded. Really good obvious problem climbing RHS of the overhanging wall with a great move to slopey pinch on the arete

   Crispy Rib 6a+ - As above. Climb slanting rib to join and finish the same as CN

   Crunchy Wall 6a - 50m downhill from the Crispy Roof is a similar but bigger leaning block. This climbs the vertical side wall

   Crunchy Nut Crack 6a+ (SS 6b+) – Quality problem gaining the hanging crack on the left side of the overhang. The sitter starts up the arete

   Petit Jesu 6c+(7a SS) – This is a good problem. One for lovers of basic steep crimping. Climb the middle of the overhang to finish just right of the apex. The sitter starts just left of the low block

Cratcliffe
   Bonfire of the Manatees 6c+/7a – Start in the back of the cave just right of Grimoire (with feet and a hand on square block), climb roof without sidewalls to a tricky move to gain a ledge. Mantle ledge and step off or finish up nice steady highball arete above. Sorry about the rules but the roof bit would be log without them


Most have these have been done on my billy-no-mates tod so pics are either rubbish or none existent but will post some up when I can. Not quite a multi media exposition am afraid


« Last Edit: November 16, 2012, 08:14:19 am by Bonjoy »

Bonjoy

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Topo of Petit Jesu block



Petit Jesu



Crispy Noodling



dave

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SA Chris

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Bonjoy

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Was pleased with that name, but gutted when I googled and found out The Simpsons already had an episode of the same name.

SA Chris

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Really? Gutted. Great minds though!

I have Gathering of the Clams reserved for a coastal prob.

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Those two in the photos look good Goosejoy!

 

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