[shark]

Thanks fried

11.6-7

M.
T.Shed at lunch and Foundry eve. Systems board and Campus board. Getting better at locks and managed 1-4-6 on medium rungs. Last session of cycle.
W.
T.eatswood. 2nd session on traverse. Average progress
F.
S.eatswood.  Snuck in a quick afternoon session. Good conditions.Got a good sequence for last bit now.
S.

Geeting busy at work. Start second cycle of campusing sometime mid-week.

[fried]

It was nothing!

Monday - 3rd session in 5 days, tired and not climbing well, strange humid conditions weren't helping either. Just boulder and back exercises.
Tuesday - Friday - Nothing. Skip Wednesday session. Need a break.

Saturday - Crap weather again, back indoors. Okish session. Back stuff, repeaters, shoulder stuff. Cook lots of curry.
Sunday - absolutely sweet FA. Watch some vids of Bonehill for next May's south coast trip.

Weight 75.0kg

[cheque]

STG: 7A and E2 on grit this season. Maintain/ improve sport fitness over winter.

M- Rest.
T- Notts Depot. Packed so rushed warmup on any available problems- proved to be a bad idea as flash pumped on first circuit board circuit. Decide to try system board instead. First time ever on a board- managed to do  the easiest route to the top one side but not the other (it's symmetrical). Fingers start failing and flash pump receded so finish with a few circuit board circuits- feel hard.
W- Rest. I appear to have tweaked my right deltoid on previous days idiotic warm-up (I even remember which problem)
T-S- Rest

For the first time ever I've been sensible and rested a slight tweak rather than the usual 'seeing how it goes' forcing a longer layoff down the line . Feels almost totally recovered now, so fingers crossed.

[nai]

M - Plantation with tomtom, surprisingly shit nick, think I did Ron's Reach, had a frustrating time on HTY, close but no Rocky bar.  Eventually managed Bullworker, hadn't tried it too often but not done it before.
T - reaches, assisted lockoffs, 4x4 repeaters, bit tweaky so canned the last 2 sets
w
T - hour and a bit at Kudos Wall with Plattsy
F - Rivelin with Plattsy, had a look at Sparks, got close by so many methods but couldn't quite finish it off.
ss - bad skin, family, etc

[TobyD]

M - gym: rowing / weights / bike / core
T - some core stuff and repeaters / pull ups / locks on rock rings.
W - gym
T - driving, moving house back to Sheffield, 15 or 20 min unfocussed pull up session at foundry, mainly chatting
F - Some routes at foundry up to 6b in trainers, on a top rope. First climbing since breaking foot in mid September. Light session of repeaters
S - ten sets of various repeaters on beastmaker, bit of core stuff
S - another ten repeater sets, different again on beastmaker and core boards, feet on campus ladders, and core stuff.

Foot hopefully ok enough next week to do aerocap on jugs, and maybe cycle a bit. Back to work too, which may be more challenging.

[duncan]

STG: Improve finger strength. Biscuit V3-V5 circuit. Stay uninjured.
MTG: 7b by end year.
LTG: E5, Ambitious LH+F objectives in Switzerland, Dolomites and USA.

M - The Biscuit: bouldering, part Greens V3-V5 circuit
T - Short hill run
W - deadhanging micro session. Tweaked finger so stopped.
T - Short hill run
F -
S - An almost deserted Portland.  Damp morning then excellent conditions by late afternoon.  Extended warm-up then had a look at 'Want Out'. Got as far as the reach to the side-pull on the second overhang before bad light stopped play.  It felt very strange to be sport climbing for the first time in ages. I didn't trust my belayer completely (sorry, if you're reading this) and wimped out of taking even short drops. The climbing was really enjoyable, small holds and technical groove climbing are definitely my things, and I had fun working sections out.  I'm not sure if this is officially a project since I've not tried all the moves but it would be fun to have a proper go some time.  Does it get any easier around the top roof?  It certainly seemed full value for 7b.
S - Family.

I need to jump off a few things on a rope, I’ve done too much indoor bouldering and trad. climbing (or trad. on bolts) this year.  Keep going with the fingery bouldering.

[Duma]

STG - be fixed enough for font by end Nov
MTG - multiple 7C's this winter, 7C+
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - stressed morning shift, eve - willy mason/ben howard gig - ace  .
T - TCA eve, shoulder still bit tweaky but not too bad. longish session but not much progress on anything.
W - TCA with three yr old - no significant climbing for dad, could feel the previous evenings session in the shoulder.
T - run, 6m, 51:13. felt (and was) slow and heavy, but stunning autumn sunshine and leaf colours made up for it.
F -
S - Comp, 20 problems, Flash format. didn't manage 4: one I should have done but messed up sequence - bit annoying, one I should have done but just powered out by crux - fair enough, one was pretty tricky - happy to get to last move, and one was really hard - so not bothered I didn't get far. Overall pretty fair reflection of where I am at the moment I think, but in shape I'd hope to make top 3 in these comps, and I'm not sure I even made top 10, so some way to go.
S - Bouldering outside! first bouldering on rock since mid may, and first since wrist mostly sorted - would be a YYFY, but we went to Ladye Bay... Actually was pretty good day, albeit at a decidedly locals venue. Did 3 probs around 7A mark, and neither shoulder or wrist complained, and enjoyed the sunshine by the seaside.

70.5-69.5

[Nibile]

Very hard week under many circumstances.
Mon - gym. Snatch, deadlift, press. Quite good.
Tue - Moonboard. A bit tired, too hot. Managed 7c+ second go after watching a video and realizing I had completely messed up the sequence...  Vol. 6. Int 8.
Wed - board. Amazing session, PB on a project, then climbed another. Vol. 3/4. Int 9.
Thu - board. Good session, not too hard.
Fri - Beast. One arm max hangs. Very good. Vol 4. Int 9.
Sat - bouldering. Very good daybout with friends. Did one new problem and repeated a few ones. Big day. Vol 9. Int 9.
Sun - easy campusing, easy bouldering. Very tired after the previous night's party.

Very psyched for the board's progresses, and for good form on rock either.
Keep the fucking faith.

[tomtom]

STG 9a+ redpoint, 8c flash, 19.7 one armers three times a day, splits.

M: Plantation with Nai.. funny day - usual plantation giving me nothing, but a good day out. We both flailed on help the young - though I did the campus move on green traverse twice - which I've never done before...
T:
W:
T: Failed attempt to get out due to weather and work..
F: Day in the field with work...
Sa: Trip to GodsCliff with Plattsy... good to get out - nice load of folk out at the Cliff... hello to the gropu of Sheffield lads who'd ventured up north for the day and seemed to be having a good crack.. Usual circuit.. Plattys got up DWR
THEN... NEW KEEL BETA SHOCK...... a gent at the Keel showed us a new way of avoiding the RF toe jam wedge shizzle with a toe down press on the end of the jam slot (apparently Mark Katz beta...). Wacky, but wonderful... excellent.. cant wait to get back on it!
Su: Trafford centre with MrsTT. What more can I say.. the highs, the lows...

[andy_e]

Su: Trafford centre ... the highs, the lows...

The highs being the state of the other people in the Trafford centre, the lows being the Trafford centre.

[tomtom]

Su: Trafford centre ... the highs, the lows...

The highs being the state of the other people in the Trafford centre, the lows being the Trafford centre.

there are no highs in the Centre de Traffordium, only slow and wides..

[Duncan Disorderly]

Oops think I missed a week...

Goals: F8a, Become as solid at 7A+ as I currently am at 7A and do some 7B's again.

M: Chill
T: BM - Short repeater session.
W: Works - Busy! Polishing off Murples and Yellows. PE on  circuit board - Top of 7c into 6c (aprox 45 moves), Bottom of 7c into 6c (aprox 45 moves) @ 5 mins rest x2. Tired.
T: AnCap on board - repeated last years circuits as benchmark.
F&S Rest.
S: Bouldering @ Gardoms - Did Marks roof LH which I'd not tried before and fell off Marks roof... Good fun!

Not a bad week. Been a bit slack of late but finally getting some training mojo back. Not really following any sort of plan but tentatively trying to work on my weaknesses, this week it was roofs (after being informed about my saggy core by a friend of mine  ). Going to put some 3 week cycles into place in the coming weeks and maybe see about doing some of Zippys campus training (wanna hit me with some beta Simon )...

This week: Finish Murples and yellows and action above.

:D

[iain]

STG: Start climbing again.

M-T: Only a cold apparently, wiped me out.
F: Felt better
S: Stripping IG, long but satisfying day. Good to feel up to it.
S: Very, very sore but in a good way.

Hadn't intended to take a total break but have done almost no climbing for 2 weeks now. Back to it.

Does it get any easier around the top roof?  It certainly seemed full value for 7b.

A bit, but I reckon the crux is getting a good sequence together (very Malham-esq). I'll be getting down to Portland most weekends now if you're looking for a belay.

[Muenchener]

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M. Yoga, broomstick OH squats
T.
W. Wall, Thalkirchen. Rather hurried late evening bouldering session; pulled muscle in back doing offset pullups on campus rungs
T. Yoga
F. Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering: working harder problems.
S. Wall, Boulderwelt. Stamina session attempting to flash as much as possible of the 6Aish circuit: 30 problems, 60% success rate.
S. Hillwalking in the rain with friends & kids. "Dad, why are we actually doing this?". Valid question.

[andy_e]

STG: not get too fat.
MTG: 7C again, 1-4-7
LTG: 7C+

M: Nothing
T: ClimbNE, campus session. Felt quite strong, was able to 1-4-6 and 1-3-6 on both arms (a minor YYFY) but still a long way off 1-4-7!
W: Nothing
T: ClimbNE, doing problems with ratty holds to try and improve finger strength.
F: Nothing
S: Brimham. Got warmed up, spent ages at Pommel as usual doing all the usual suspects and then went over to Titfield where it went dark and I wasn't able to get on anything new! Felt a bit smeggy anyway due to high humidity and a lot of dampness around.
S: Earl Crag. A fun warm-up with a few laps on the classics around Trick Arete. Tried and failed on both Hanging Groove and Sloping Beauty. Had a go on Underpants, was miles away from slapping the jug (no surprise there) then had a quick go on The Flakes and Grape Nut, not getting up either. Oh well, a nice day out anyway.

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7b (har de har)

M - nowt
T - Depot session on new Reds, got a good few of the easier ones done
W - nowt
T- supposedly easy session to keep ticking over for comp on Sat, ended up doing one of the trickier Reds
F - went to see Carter USM at Leeds O2, drank a bit more than I should have, late night of drunk sleep
S - felt crap, went to Battle Of Britain, climbed crap
S - Sunday lunch with Mrs TTT's family

[rich d]

stg beachball
Mtg font 7a consistently

Mon fingerboard session
Tues fingerboard
Wed felt rough
Thur felt rough
Frid felt rough
Sat nott depot did all blues, 1 red good session
Sun family duties (when these had finished it was dark got pissed to make up for not getting on the grit)
Not a bad week despite feeling rotten in the middle - started doing pressups every day
Goals for this week 2 wall sessions 3 fingerboard sessions, pressups everyday, Get to 2min of plank.

[shark]

It was nothing!