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New Problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax (Read 6843 times)

Lee Mac

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New Problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax
November 10, 2012, 08:31:01 pm
New Boulder problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax

4 new problems/eliminates done on the Sheriff block. The rock and landings are excellent and most dry quickly after the rain.

1 - Jacks Aręte – 7c. Sit start (no crouching) with left hand on the obvious flake (left of large crack) Right hand on the aręte. Slap up the aręte until it’s possible to slap the top with the left hand. All parts of the rock pillar under the roof on the left are out.

2 – Sheriff-less – 7c+. An eliminate on the Sheriff, no back wall or diagonal crack.

The following 2 problems have not had full ascents due to the wet nature of the roof cracks. 2 shorter versions have been done at similar grade.

3 – Jacks Roof - 8a. From the back of the cave under Jacks Aręte. Start on a small sharp pocket in the roof and a flake/ramp in the crack (all back wall is in) Climb straight out through the roof and finish up Jacks Aręte. Shorter version, Start 1m under the roof with left hand in the large pocket and right hand on the edge of the roof crack, climb out through the roof and finish up Jacks Aręte.

4 – Jack Shot the Sheriff – 8a. Start with hands and feet in the roof crack and climb across the roof to the start flake of the Sheriff, finish up the Sheriff (no back wall). The shorter version can be climbed when the cracks are wet (towel dry the cracks). Start with feet in the roof crack, right hand in the large roof pocket and left adjacent on the lip of the roof, pull on and climb through the roof to the start flake of the Sheriff, finish up the Sheriff.

All problems need repeats and so grades need confirming

Offwidth

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#1 Re: New Problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax
November 11, 2012, 09:46:37 am
Well done and thanks. Presumably you are using the usual reporting methods for these as well (Leeds Wall and www.yorkshire grit.com). I'm writing up Woodhouse Scar for the new YMC guide and will get these looked at and would appreciate any wider feedback on these and the other hard problems there...email or message me though this site.

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Cleared rubbish and brambles again over the last few days, ready for the autumn improvement in friction.

Offwidth

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#3 Re: New Problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax
February 16, 2014, 05:53:31 pm
Cleaned around Woodhouse Scar again today. Conditions mint, everything dry and friction good in the cool air.

tomtom

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#4 Re: New Problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax
February 16, 2014, 06:38:05 pm
Fancy meeting up there some time Offwidth - I fancy having a look around and (being cheeky) a tour is often the best way to check out new crags..? 

tommytwotone

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#5 Re: New Problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax
February 16, 2014, 08:15:44 pm
Top place Woodhouse - in fact I think I met Offwidth there a few years back when it was being cleaned up last time.


Radium Arete and Piton Crack both must-do while you're there fella, plus there's a load of hard stuff in a low-lipped roof (Houdini, Ian's Roof etc) that might suit your style.




Grubes

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#6 Re: New Problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax
February 16, 2014, 09:47:22 pm
TT give me a shout if you want to visit when you are doing a m62 run. It is a 5 min drive from my office so hapy to go there once in a while even though I dont like the place

Plattsy

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#7 Re: New Problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax
February 17, 2014, 07:55:11 am
Been meaning to visit myself but work has got in the way. I'm sure Steve Honeyman would be up for a visit/provide a tour. There does seem to be a lot to go at and if you have a crap session you can always score some drugs where you parked to help numb the pain a little.

tomtom

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#8 Re: New Problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax
February 17, 2014, 08:05:18 am
Been meaning to visit myself but work has got in the way. I'm sure Steve Honeyman would be up for a visit/provide a tour. There does seem to be a lot to go at and if you have a crap session you can always score some drugs where you parked to help numb the pain a little.

Are those the same helpful chaps who offer the valet parking service? - where uniquely you don't get your car back...

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#9 Re: New Problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax
February 17, 2014, 11:21:09 am
Meeting is a little difficult for the next couple of months as I have a few overseas trips (work and play) and I'm probably not the best guide for the harder stuff in any case (people have been on it as it is all chalked at present and Lee and Adam have developed quite a few worthwhile variations ideal for when the weather is mixed). Its a brilliant beginners/bumbly/kids venue when clean (as it is presently) a really good 6a venue and lots of good roof stuff in the 7s to low 8, some of which is as all weather as it comes. With storms and hospital visits I've been a bit random recently.. I'm always up for a chat though on issues/grades for the new guide... on the crag or message me here. My next job is trying to get a circuit done mainly high 5 low 6, finishing font style on Piton Crack.

I've never had any problems with the kids... treat them with respect and they are OK... the littering is annoying but I only filled half a bag with rubbish this time from the base of the crag. It is a little unnerving when they decide they might be superman when off their heads (last year we talked one out of jumping off a 7m section to impress his spaced out mates).
« Last Edit: February 17, 2014, 11:32:55 am by Offwidth »

tomtom

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#10 Re: New Problems at Woodhouse Scar Halifax
February 17, 2014, 11:32:28 am
No worries - it might not be for a few weeks for me either (work, travel too..)

Superman tales are a bit scary!

 

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