[fried]

I'm done for the day.

Monday - Tuesday - Work.
Wednesday - Indoor. 2h + 1h core/ stretching/ repeaters.
Thursday - work
Friday - Indoor. Same as above lots of new stuff. Couple of quick F6A. First 6A+, obviously counts for nothing being indoors.
Saturday - Roche qui Tourne too look at a real 6A+....need a spotter for this, my fingers are tired and my shoulders hurt. Go to Drei Zinnen and have a lovely time doing bits of the blue circuit. I take it back what I said about the place.

Sunday - Removals. I now have a dish washer; I don't have anywhere to put it but hey. Car looks like it's got a problem. It was being difficult then O.K, now bizarre.

Planned skive to go to the forest looks like being a skive to go back to the garage where they claimed there was nothing wrong with it last week.
 
I'm cursed; 3 days off this week, the sky is blue, temperature is crisp and the car's fucked.

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.5-7

M.
T. Am Various weighted hangs PM Shed/Foundry Strength work
W.
T. Non. Some weighted deadhangs and systems board moves Eve Shed/Foundry. More weighted deadhangs and systems moves. Really sleepy by time got foundry but put in good work on campus board after a coffee and flapjack . Goosed by time I got home
F.
S. AM. Works Fingerboard and campus
S.

Improvements in sessions on last week. Day-on/day-off is working well but an even numbered week would be more convenient.

Interesting advice from the Sausage on Saturday about strength work and isolating the movement you most want to train (ie the weakest link) which with campusing has to be the last 10-15degrees into a full lock on an edge which Joe works on one arm using a pulley for assistance.

Team trip to Malham on Tuesday so plenty of opportunity to milk Steve and Zips for info info on strength exercises. 

[tomtom]

Hello and good times! (as an Iran based email stalker repeatedly greets me..)

A much much better week...

m:
t: LogCity (Hull) - but a good session! I left feeling drained and tired (the aim of climbing walls really..)
w: rest
th: Working too much...
Fr: Ooh, should be working but nice weather.. headed out to Helsby for a cheeky hour that turned into a good 90 min
Sa: Met up with Nai, Cofe, Dutch and met a few others at Cratcliffe... good mellow day, exploring somewhere I've never bouldered before on a pristine Autumn afternoon... Managed "Wish" on Heuco wall after many many attempts (hello to Frank, Olly and others that were there..)
Su: I felt completely jiggered (to quote Stone)

First 7 of the season. Excellent.

[nai]

goals - Call of Nature, get boulder fit

M - supposed to be a call session but my partner bailed, went to Rubicon and had best efforts yet at The Press until my cold caught up with me and I couldn't get off the ground.
t
w
T - Call session 3, it all came together today, worked the top 4 times to get it hard-wired and managed to shave a hand move and a foot move off the crux sequence and make it slightly higher percentage.  Didn't try a big link but feel ready to start redpointing now, plan is to have the top so wired that I can climb it wasted having made it through the crux for the first time.
f
S - enjoyable day at Cratcliffe with a few folk but more climbing than achieving, my gritstone skills appear to have been taken.

might have pulled an Oblique or something in the region on Saturday, back/side is pretty uncomfortable making waking painful. Not sure I''ll be able to manage Call4 tomorrow 

[cheque]

STG- 7A boulder and E2 on grit this season.

M- Rest.
T- Nottingham wall routes. 13m is now too low for me to train endurance on so the main benefit of routes here is fall practice- plenty of that.
W- Rest
T- Depot bouldering. Feeling strong. All the blues (V1-V3), most of the reds (V3-V5) than all the purples (V0-V1) to warm down. Having entire circuits of problems is going to make these sessions so much more beneficial- doing all the purples onsight at the end felt great.
F- Set up pulley next to Beastmaker. Assisted one-armers.
S- Curbar bouldering. First session on grit for ages- what's all this technique stuff about then? Didn't send anything harder than 6A  - couldn't even do the trackside layback crack warmup at first.  Made progress on a few thongs though- now know exactly what I'm doing on Gorilla Warfare, for example, so will hopefully do that soon.
S- Shockingly thin skin. Rest.

[TobyD]

Interesting advice from the Sausage on Saturday about strength work and isolating the movement you most want to train (ie the weakest link)

interesting, that is very similar to what i've been doing in the gym while i've had a broken foot - using weights to work weaker stages of lock and shoulder power in certain positions.

[csl]

Mon-Fri - very little exercise. Some press ups and core one day.
Sat - Kelsey Kerridge - onsight most new problems. Some working harder things. Core.

Goals for November
2x Fingerboard per week
1x wall
Get over running injury.

@cheque - if the Nott's wall is too short to train your endurance, do laps!

[Duma]

STG - be fixed enough for font by end Nov
MTG - multiple 7C's this winter, 7C+
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M -
T -
W -
T - 
F - TCA eve, excellent session, 6 greens I'd  not managed before, all around 7A mark. Shoulder felt a lot better for the week off and wrist, while still needing care, seems pretty sorted. Then night shift.
S - 13hr night shift - bloody clock change! and you lot all got an extra hour in bed! 
S - Run, 6m, 49:53. Bit slow, but it was pissing with rain so pretty pleased with mental fortitude to get out of bed and get out before night shift.

70kg all week

Good week, psyche is high now injuries seem to be fading from the scene.

[Muenchener]

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M.
T.
W. Wall, Thalkirchen. Pre-comp light bouldering session
T.
F.
S. Boulder Comp, Cafe Kraft, Nürnberg. Slghtly better performance than in the previous round four weeks ago: one more top & one more bonus. Tactics still need work: there were two more harder problems that felt like they would have been very possible if I had tried them before I was completely fscked.
S. post-comp recovery yoga

[sidewinder]

@cheque - if the Nott's wall is too short to train your endurance, do laps!

The routes don't lend themselves well to laps, all the toproped stuff is to easy/vertical/slabby.  The lead wall routes tend to be pretty cruxy making them hard to reverse even at their easiest, this means you are face with leading, pulling the roped through releading ...
All in all I would say finding an quiet part of the bouldering wall to do circuits on is better, though again it is hard to find a part of the right angle with the right holds.
Better again is probably the large circuits board at the Depot...

[csl]

Fair enough, if theres nowt sustained. I've only ever bouldered there so you know a lot more than me.

But just to reply to this, 'this means you are face with leading, pulling the roped through releading ...'

Isn't always leading laps the way it should be? I mean, you actually get to deal with being pumped on lead, and in situations where you have to take a real fall. I find it teaches me to climb better when pumped, in turn making me get less pumped in the first place. 

Agree about Depots circuit board though, if i were living in Nott's now i'd just do laps on there really.

[duncan]

Quiet week on climbing front due to work, family commitments, and offspring injuring himself (probably not serious) requiring various A+E trips.

Easing into some finger/strength work after a summer of (not much) trad. and stamina training.  Feeling weak of course but relatively tweak-free.  Gently does it...

STG: Improve finger strength. Biscuit "V3"-"V5" circuit. Stay uninjured.
MTG: 7b by end year.
LTG: E5, Ambitious LH+F objectives in Switzerland, Dolomites and USA.

M - short jog
T - deadhang micro-session
W - 3km jog
T - deadhang micro-session
F - The Biscuit: Greys and part Blues circuits: "V2" - "V3"
S - Family in somerset
S - Family in somerset

[TobyD]

this means you are face with leading, pulling the roped through releading ...

Nothing wrong with that, I often do it out of choice.

Better again is probably the large circuits board at the Depot...

depending on whether the circuits are well set, and fairly suited to what you want to train, I have found in the past that sometimes circuits are excellent training for getting better at circuits, and actually a bit shit for being better at sending when it matters. I guess you just have to make sure their intensity and nature is specific enough for you.

[mrjonathanr]

I have found in the past that sometimes circuits are excellent training for getting better at circuits, and actually a bit shit for being better at sending when it matters.

You get them wired, what was very difficult then becomes easy, and the training value fades away.

[sidewinder]

Isn't always leading laps the way it should be? I mean, you actually get to deal with being pumped on lead, and in situations where you have to take a real fall. I find it teaches me to climb better when pumped, in turn making me get less pumped in the first place. 

I think the releading is fine at places like the Foundry where the routes are a bit longer to start off with and you face a pump each time, but at the Notts wall, the 'good' rest you get through being lowered and while the rope is being pulled ready for the relead, after what is a pretty short route (Feehally and co would probably be highballing them  ) means any pump is gone before the next attempt, so you are in effect starting from scratch, just a bit more tired.

At Nottingham I generally feel like I fall through messing up the move or being tired, rather than through being pumped on the move. Perhaps the route length/style at Nottingham puts releading here, more into some sort of power endurance training rather than pure stamina.

[Nibile]

Week off from work. Spent climbing, mainly at local areas but with a couple of new sectors visited.
Mon - rest. Coffee and food all day.
Tue - bouldering. Very hot.
Wed - bouldering. Very good day. Vol 9. Int 8.
Thu - bouldering. Tired.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board session. Vol 7. Int 8.
Sun - bouldering comp. Vol 9. Int 8.

[Wood FT]

Goals: 7c, 7B, E4

m - foundry boulder, struggled to get into groove but found form at the end and did an old elite then repeated all level 2's I had struggled with previously.
t - foundry boulder, no focus, bimbled around on plateau...
w - diddily squat
t - foundry boulder after abortive attempt at lantern session. Spend a good while on the wave purple, went from shit to done in 20 minutes after taking in advice and relative professionalism in the execution. Happy. Look at wave black, fail, big moves.
f - fall asleep in bath and wake up confused, I am my father.
s - glorious weather, lawrencefield trad, blow onsight of suspense at top move after spending too long on lower ledge, gutted. get it second go with chris telling me to hurry up. do some filming of the other lads on the back wall, punter my shadow but happy with the footage, quickly realising I need a zoom lens for routes as the 11 - 16 makes lawrencefield look like el cap.
s - gf's family round so take them to the works, a few minor dabbles on the new circuits.

Feel steady improvement, pleased to be back on trad but feel like i'm missing my chances with sport, though from the looks of the above the tor still seems viable and there are plenty enough heathans around to get out.

[i_a_coops]

M
T ancap, 13 move circuit every 4 minutes for far too long. overdid it!
W wasted. couldn't even pull on my ancap circuit from the day before. Tried to do aerocap but got so turbopumped I had to keep stepping off.
T-F
S Cheddar. Fell off project a lot.
S Ansteys. 1RP on Cider Soak, fell off going for the pocket then sacked it due to aching fingers. I cannot work out a viable sequence for this move. OS'd American Express for a consolation tick.

[tommytwotone]

STG: back to bouldering fitness / strength
LTG: Font 7b

M - nowt
T - board session, felt really good
W - Depot, did all new Blues (V2-V3) onsight bar two (drat!) and even got a couple of the (really quite tough / more realistic) V4ish Purples done
T - went to see Bat For Lashes, very good indeed
F - Nowt - went to Whitby for a weekend with Mrs TTT's family
S - Walked c. 5 miles from cottage to Whitby and then the same in reverse
S - Nowt, lie-in and assistance with Sunday lunch preparation

Another weekend away in grit season, not the best planning if I'm honest but I did have a good time. Diary is totally free this week so the plan is a more regimented training / resting plan, as I've been feeling knackered the last few weeks doing back-to-back training during the week to accommodate social life.

Taking Friday off as have a long weekend free as well...will the weather play ball?

[cheque]

Thanks for the feedback on my endurance training guys!  It's occurred to me recently that I'm pretty unimaginative in my training at climbing walls- trying to improve on that this winter.

I think 'throwing laps' on the Notts Wall routes (or just doing two routes in a row come to think of it) is a good plan. I do think there's value to climbing up, clipping the bolts, taking leader falls etc. so I'll be trying to stick with it, as tempting as just focusing on the (amazing) Depot circuit board is!

[andy_e]

STG: Get a load of grit in, get some fitness.
MTG: Hunter's Roof, 1-4-7
LTG: 7C+

M: ClimbNE, campussing on the new board. Strength seems OK (I was able to 1-4-6 and 1-3-6 on the big rungs) but struggled even with 1-3-5-7 on the small rungs (although half the battle was not slipping off them!) so there's room for some definite finger strength improvement (as usual).
T: ClimbNE, problems. Spent ages getting a spanking on problems that I shouldn't have had a spanking on!
W: Rest
T: Almscliff, tried Sloping Traverse but Ru's light died so we couldn't get anything done...
F: Nothing
S: Nothing
S: Nothing.

Plan for this week: More campussing, hope there's some good weather at the weekend...

[richdraws]

STG 7a,7a+,7b, 7b+
MTG (Jan/Feb2013) - Boulder 7c new goal 7c+
LTG 8b (one can dream)

Low volume week

Went to swiz, had fun, but climbed appallingly apart from the first day. Must get better at not eating all the chocolate and drinking all the beer on holiday. Friends climbed well which was really cool to see.

Mon - lunchtime jog - fingerboard repeaters
Tue - lunchtime jog - climbing works, rammed no fun.
wed - lunchtime jog - fingerboard repeaters
thu  - lunchtime jog - fingerboard repeaters
fri    - lunchtime jog - rest
sat - Grit bouldering, went to Rivelin and Stanage, did loads of problems including Brad Pit and Brass Monkeys. So that's the mid term goals hit.
sun - Anston Stones, felt strong-ish and had the crag to myself. Didn't manage to get up anything new.

[cheque]

did loads of problems including Brad Pit and Brass Monkeys. So that's the mid term goals hit.

Nice work!

[Wood FT]

sat - Grit bouldering, went to Rivelin and Stanage, did loads of problems including Brad Pit and Brass Monkeys. So that's the mid term goals hit.

good effort, inspiring return to form