[michal]

I searched and couldn't find anything matching this in the forum....

Two weeks ago after climbing at the gym I noticed that my PIP joint in my right middle finger was a bit inflamed. No pain while climbing or anything acute (maybe a slight sensation while holding a swing on a weird scooped hold that I held half-crimped but with fingers not on the same plane - definitely no pain, though).  I took a few days off and did contrast baths every day. The inflammation became less diffuse and the "sensation" that I have seems to be on the top of the PIP joint (not palm side) on the ring finger side of the extensor hood. I climbed light one day, stopped hangboarding and then started climbing fairly normally. No climbing moves hurt but the extensor side of the PIP joint (top) is definitely getting inflamed after climbing.

I have a week-long climbing trip to Little Rock City and Horse Pens 40 coming up in a couple of weeks - that, the fact that it is October and the lack of pain while climbing is making rest a bit unpalatable. Advice?

[SOH]

I had the exact same symptoms you're describing only on my left middle finger. Although this is going back to jan/feb time. I went to a GP who prescribed Voltorol gel. This firmly massaged into the joint three times a day with no climbing for 2-3 weeks improved it a lot but was a very slow process.
Sadly in june i ended up breaking the same finger in football which set me back to square one. I'm now back climbing once or twice a week but i'm starting to feel the old symptoms coming back.
I'd seek a specialist if I were you (thats what i'm planning anyway).

[michal]

In case anyone is interested....

I spent the last couple of weeks only openhanding in the gym and bouldering outside on weekends, either openhanding or using a half crimp with the right hand.  I taped around the A2 band underneath the PIP joint.  I still tried hard problems, just nothing that required bearing down on a right hand crimp or weird torquing of my right hand.  The joint still got inflamed a bit after these sessions, but there was a daily reduction in swelling.  After a week of this I accidentally hit my hand on something, felt a sharp pain and a sensation of something popping back into place, followed by no pain and continuing reduction in swelling.  Perhaps the swelling pushed something out of alignment at the top of the PIP joint. 

I've been doing daily contrast baths, which really seem to help.  At this point I'd say it's about 95% back to normal and I plan on sticking with openhanding in the gym this week followed by a weeklong bouldering trip where I will hopefully have full use of the finger.

[mrjonathanr]

Good luck to you. The old 'whack it to make it work better' trick seems to have worked for you.

[SOH]

I agree with you on the hot/cold baths they definitley have been helping me. Just need to get my arse in gear and do them more often.