Quote from: Stubbs on October 16, 2012, 12:05:02 pmAwesome I'm the very bottom of one of those little sticks! Does this mean I should do more pull ups?!Me too!
Awesome I'm the very bottom of one of those little sticks! Does this mean I should do more pull ups?!
Years ago, I used to do sets of 30+ pull-ups off a single-joint deep door frame edge... I could boulder around f6c+. I then moved to Yorkshire, I couldn't do any pull-ups (parents' house: weak door-frames and no chin-up bar) but I was unemployed and spent a year or two solidly grit bouldering - did lots of f7b+'s and the odd soft 7c. After that spell, I had a go on a chin-up bar and found I could only manage around 10 pull-ups. By my understanding of science, if I chop off my arms and get down to zero pull-ups, I'll have a bouldering grade of font-infinity!
Positive font-infinity based on my own two, longitudinal data points (30+ chinups = f6c+; 10 chinups = f7b+/c)! And yes, I am aware that incomplete statistics are misleading and, even where the numbers are accurate, correlation doesn't determine causation.... that was kind of the point I was making, albeit in a ham-fisted way. All other things being equal, more arm and finger strength is good, but if technique / core are terrible they'll be the limiting factor.
I wonder if only studying people who've climbed a good few years makes any difference to the results. If limiting the data set to those for whom "rookie" technique is unlikely to be limiting, makes strength based correlations clearer?
Moose may have a good point, and # of years climbing may be a good addition to the survey (If its not there now, I can't remember).
My reasoning being that technique is of far greater utility to on-sighting and the strength of any relationship between feats of training strength would be weaker when that is the outcome.
I've the same graphs for each of the questions for each of the bouldering/route grades but am holding back on putting anything else up as I'm writing it up as a PDF report (when I get round to having time to spend on coding the analysis and writing the text to go with the figures).I'll put everything up on the wiki when done and link it from here, including a copy of the cleaned data (anonymised by the removal of names that people have entered) along with the scripts I write should anyone wish to do any further work.
Quote from: slackline on October 17, 2012, 12:51:14 pmI've the same graphs for each of the questions for each of the bouldering/route grades but am holding back on putting anything else up as I'm writing it up as a PDF report (when I get round to having time to spend on coding the analysis and writing the text to go with the figures).I'll put everything up on the wiki when done and link it from here, including a copy of the cleaned data (anonymised by the removal of names that people have entered) along with the scripts I write should anyone wish to do any further work.Any chance of putting the anonymised data (give em names A, B c etc..) on a google docs spreadsheet we can copy from?
Maybe wait until its been up a week?
Interesting to note the users on here have a modal indoor grade of 7A and outdoor grade of 7C! It would seem that those who get the opportunity to climb outdoors climb harder, or is that an invalid observation for some reason?
Quote from: andi_e on October 25, 2012, 10:54:33 amInteresting to note the users on here have a modal indoor grade of 7A and outdoor grade of 7C! It would seem that those who get the opportunity to climb outdoors climb harder, or is that an invalid observation for some reason?You could also come to the conclusion that indoor grades are off by 2
Interesting to see the anomaly to the trend of number of pull up to boulder grade outdoors. So there are some 6B+ climbers doing 20+ pull ups!