[bondosan]

i was looking at this the other day, never really looked at it before.
was there once a hold thats now been snapped off out left ?
there's a couple of smaller holds above it but i cant reach em.

[dave]

i think most people go off the ende and pocket on the right now.

[cofe]

i think most people go off the ende and pocket on the right now.

i think he means the sitter? i think there's an undercut and an edge and you try and get the RH edge. i think. then the hard move to the slopery-pinch thing.

this may all just be lies.

[Andy Harris]

There did use to be a very very small edge out left but it is now resident in my cupboard at home after me & John Welford snapped it off. Ben never used it on the 1st ascent but I think Jerry did. The move is much harder without it.

Andy

[Bubba]

after me & John Welford snapped it off.

What, you were both hanging off it  :D

[mark]

There did use to be a very very small edge out left but it is now resident in my cupboard at home after me & John Welford snapped it off. Ben never used it on the 1st ascent but I think Jerry did. The move is much harder without it.

Andy

Is this cupboard entirely devoted to broken holds?

[Andy Harris]

Johns a couple of grams heavier than me and if I remember correctly it was he who snapped it landing in a heap.

The cupboard does indeed contain a few other significant holds. Think this could be a pseudo interesting thread "FAMOUS HOLDS I OWN". I'll posta new thread.

Andy

[a dense loner]

it was he who snapped it landing in a heap.

good job rich was there. he could have hurt himself otherwise  :D

[c.j.d.]

Just read this one ( I know).  I heard a rumour that during that 'Roc Trip' thing, there was a bit of interest on this problem.  Does this mean that:

A)  Its still possible, and has been repeated since the loss of hold.
B)  Its still possible, but nobody's repeated it since loss of hold.
C)  Its not possible, but Jonny Foreigner had no idea it was   broken, leaving  
       Jonny Brown secretley sn**gering around the corner.

  It would be cool if A or B is the answer, as this is one of those 'always wanted to...' problems until a complete tool or uneducated youth smashed off the crimp.  Answers on a postcard!

[Ru]

I think it's...

D) the hold broke AFTER the roc-trip.

There's still a bit of hold left, meaning that it might still be possible, but the rock is still sandy and will probably crumble if used.

[Jim]

looks like another job for UKB's own flying bicycle/rock repair man and his bag of assorted elixiers and royal jelly's

[Bonjoy]

I'm not sure about this one. I could stablise it as it is at present. This would make a slightly gnarly edge, more positive than the original hold. It is pretty fragile though and would have to be fixed up with epoxy resin (same as the Domes footer, although i've got better at colour matching since then). Or I could us grit + resin to try and recreate the original hold (in which case if anyone had any pics, they would be useful). If left to nature it may or may not weather out to a usable hold in a few years. I don't really want to make the decision on this, as once treated it's fixed pretty much for good. I'm happy to do either if that's what folk wanted.

[Johnny Brown]

I think it should be left for at least a few years before anyone starts messing with it. Weathering takes time.

[cofe]

it's pretty obvious from looking at it that it's fucked since it was smashed up. let's let nature have a crack i say.

[al]

i agree, i am up for footholds being treated, stabalised and chips being filled etc, but don't think handholds should be repaired/rebuilt - you can't rebuild grit holds with synthetic resins, and whatever mix you use will react/erode differently to the rock around it.
it would also set a precendent to start fucking with handholds - might be ok on limestone, but grit is very delicate, and a treat to the eye. grey sika and resin (joker, row tor etc) isn't!

[Jim]

we better go and take the hold on joker/ the ace down then eh?

[Bonjoy]

I'll leave it then.
 Sticking a big jug back on is a long way from recrafting a hold I think.

[al]

sticking a big jug back on is a long way from recrafting a hold I think.

it is, i agree.
what i was getting at is what a mess they are now - could have been repaired much better (why use sika, it doesn't look anything like grit, use climbing hold mix with extra thixotropic gel/fillers and the right pigments. am sure lloyd, dan french, crispin would supply this)
the recrafting issue was relating to feel good etc. when the broken hold has gone, and you have to recreate what was there.

[Ru]

What's happened to Feel Good?

[al]

What's happened to Feel Good?

oh, my mistake ru, i meant sweet thing - nothing up with feel good (getting confused)

[Johnny Brown]

Apparently the hold on sweet thing has now been covered in some kind of paint??? Think Jim knows more.

[Bonjoy]

I'd just like to point out that whatever has been done to Sweet Thing is not my work.
 Al, I think you missunderstood my point. What I meant was, sticking the jug back on the Joker is arguably more justifiable because if done properly (it wasn't) it would restore the rock to pretty much exactly as it was before. Whereas fixing Sweet Thing would involved adding something which wasn't there before.
 BTW I don't use sika. If you have a look at the repair work I did on My Buddy the Apple (Rowtor), you'll see that I mixed grit and earth into the resin to get a good colour and textural match. Infact nobody has even noticed the repair unless it has been pointed out to them. I wouldn't dream of touching Sweet Thing unless sure I could make a very natural repair and would then only do so if it was the expressed wish of all concerned

[al]

Al, I think you missunderstood my point. What I meant was, sticking the jug back on the Joker is arguably more justifiable because if done properly (it wasn't) it would restore the rock to pretty much exactly as it was before. Whereas fixing Sweet Thing would involved adding something which wasn't there before.

i think i'm basically in agreement bonjoy, thats what i was getting at re. sweet thing, just that the job on the joker is shoddy  - also to be fair i havn't checked row tor stuff, other than the pictures here, it just looked like sika - didn't intend to offend, and am behind your maintenance work, it just needs each case to be sussed carefully thats all.

[dave]

If you have a look at the repair work I did on My Buddy the Apple (Rowtor), you'll see that I mixed grit and earth into the resin to get a good colour and textural match. Infact nobody has even noticed the repair unless it has been pointed out to them.

i was stood next to this for half an hour today and didn't notice the repair, even after lovejoy mentioning it to me 5 mins earlier. in my book thats a good repair.

the foothold on Domes to me isn't a bad job, its rock solid and doesn't effect the climbing. OK its not the same colour as the rock but fuck me lets not look a gift horse in the mouth, considering our activity of choice revolves around covering the rock with bright white powder i don't think we're in any position to complain about the colour!

hope the crimp on that 7b thing gets a good repair.

[a dense loner]

the holds on sweet thing have had something done to them and are disgusting. somebody is obviously trying to stabilise the rock but it looks shite. basically like rolf harris has gone to the crag with a tin of white paint