Never thought I would say this but having spent a bit of time at Moat Buttress WCJ and Windy Buttress (Stoney) this summer I'd be in favour of some further retrobolting on a route by route basis at selected locations! In my opinion it has worked brilliantly in these two places. I don't believe I or anyone else (ok maybe not ANYONE!) would have bothered going there if it wasn't for the excellent rebolting effort by Kristian(?) et al. You only need to look at the logbooks for Moat Buttress on UKC (sorry!) and you'll see no activity for 20 years then suddenly 15 ticks in a single summer. Obviously UKC is far from a respository of all ascents, but it is a useful indicator in this case.
Quote from: Steamboat Stello on September 21, 2012, 02:04:11 pmNever thought I would say this but having spent a bit of time at Moat Buttress WCJ and Windy Buttress (Stoney) this summer I'd be in favour of some further retrobolting on a route by route basis at selected locations! In my opinion it has worked brilliantly in these two places. I don't believe I or anyone else (ok maybe not ANYONE!) would have bothered going there if it wasn't for the excellent rebolting effort by Kristian(?) et al. You only need to look at the logbooks for Moat Buttress on UKC (sorry!) and you'll see no activity for 20 years then suddenly 15 ticks in a single summer. Obviously UKC is far from a respository of all ascents, but it is a useful indicator in this case. AFAIK the work on Moat and Windy Buttress has been re-bolting old sport routes or bolting of new lines rather than retrobolting trad routes. As it happens one of the example routes that Ian said he was in favour of revitalising and potentially replacing pegs with bolts was Kellogg on Windy Buttress.
Lets face it, the '80s aren't coming back.
As it happens one of the example routes that Ian said he was in favour of revitalising and potentially replacing pegs with bolts was Kellogg on Windy Buttress.
Just when you think Peak Lime is going to be turned in to sport heaven, along comes someone to piss on your chips.
I don't think any amount of bolts could turn peak lime into sport heaven
This all seems a bit vague. The only crags/routes mentioned are Chee Tor and Kelloggs neither of which should be bolted imho.
Similarly we visisted Central Buttress WCJ a few years ago as folk were saying if we don't retrobolt it it will be lost to vegetation. We found loose rock a bigger problem than vegetation of which there was little, with a rash of new bolts being more conspicuous.
High Tor? Seriously?