So I've been training body Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and fingers in between.
Q: Would I be better off training the antagonistic muscles to climbing on “off days” or add them at the end of a climbing workout?A: Anatgonist training is great, but doing too much of it on “off days” can delay recovery. How much is enough? Too much? Hard to say. I think sticking to lower-volume and higher-intensity exercise is the ticket. Strength benefits are greater and the metabolic damage is less.If you can do it on climbing days and follow both with a full day of recovery, you’re probably better off.
Quote from: douglas on September 26, 2012, 10:27:40 pmSo I've been training body Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and fingers in between.That is still a dilemma for me and I've been trying to wrap my head around this, so I asked some questions around, for example, Steve Bechtel:QuoteQ: Would I be better off training the antagonistic muscles to climbing on “off days” or add them at the end of a climbing workout?A: Anatgonist training is great, but doing too much of it on “off days” can delay recovery. How much is enough? Too much? Hard to say. I think sticking to lower-volume and higher-intensity exercise is the ticket. Strength benefits are greater and the metabolic damage is less.If you can do it on climbing days and follow both with a full day of recovery, you’re probably better off.
So along similar lines, if I'm going to boulder the same day as doing a fingerboard workout what kind of stuff should I be doing? I'm guessing 4x4's, etc are out and I should be doing volume at my onsight level to continue working strength?