[shark]

M.
T. Eve. On way back from London persuaded Sonia to go to tor with me. My project on the left was still dry and worked it. Felt stronger on it than last year but forgot how harsh the crimps are. At home did a a set of 20/10's in the Shed.
W. Early AM Sports massage. Also had achy finger joints from previous day's crimping
T. PM Tor. Good enjoyable session on the project.
F. Eve. Drove to Bude
S. AM Weighted deadhangs on Wedge in brother's garage
S. Drove home

The Saturday deadhang session was my first after a 2 week rest after completing the initial 8 week cycle. Like Eva found in her initial study the gains had all but gone as I was back down to 20kg on the larger edge. Although I've changed my mind a couple of times on this I've decided I'm going to repeat a further 8 week cycle of maximal hangs rather than doing an intermittant strength endurance hangs cycle.

[cheque]

STG: 5.12 in the Red River Gorge in October.

Having listed Monday as part of last week, I've no climbing or training at all to report this week. I decided to have a week off after Pembroke- much needed I think as I've been feeling pretty thrashed.

RRG training program starts tomorrow at the Foundry (unless the weather's better than predicted). 

What's your Tor project Shark?

[Muenchener]

Week ending 26th August

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint.
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes by ticking several classics in the V/V+ range in the Dolomites.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   

M.
T.
W. Thalkirchen, routes. Decided to break 6b plateau by starting to try projecting some harder things. Given that I have onsighted (softish) 6c this year, a 7a redpoint should be well within the realm of the possible. Got a few bolts up on a 7a+, did all the moves first time on a 7a with a few rests. Time for an autumn redpointing campaign.
T.
F.
S. Boulder World Cup. In a commanding display of correct priority setting, watched men's qualis on internet and women's qualis live.
S. Boulder World Cup. Watched semis then went bouldering at wall (Thalkirchen) with thereby-inspired son.

Plan for next week: Active Rest. Family camping in Frankenjura: canoeing, biking in woods (eating cakes) etc. Might toprope my son on a few 4's.

[tomtom]

Cheers for starting Shark..

M: Holmfirth on way to work.. Nailed 7A (Old lace) first go.. Flailed on other stuff for a while..
T
W
Th: Rockcity Hull. Woefull. But made better by bumping into Lee and him creating some more interesting problems..
F:
Sa: trp to zlondon
Su: got back from london in time to get out for a couple of hours. Good.

[nai]

goals 8a & E4

two weeks for the price of one:

wc 13/08
M Wolf Crag Quarry nr Stirling - boiling hot - struggled on most stuff and got shut down by lots of low 6s, 15 problems up to 6bish

T same again -boiling hot again - worked a couple of 6c/7a problems but just trashed skin, cloud came over and it all started to feel better but then the heavens opened, had a blast at the F7a traverse, fell about two moves from success. 10 more problems up to 6bish

W - same again - much cooler when I left the house but warm again by the time I arrived, had to time attempts with cloud cover, tickled the finishing holds on both problems but no cigars. Did the traverse then cloud cover came so willed arms back to life and tried the problems again, no cigars....

wc 20/08
T- Kyloe In. Bit muggy and midgy even at 6:30, did three cool 6As then got shut down by Hitchikers, didn't like the look of Monty Pythons so worked Jocks n Geordies sitter (having done the stand yrs ago) instead, got all the moves but couldn't quite put it all together in the end.

Th - Hepburn, loads of ridge problems to 6b & tried Rheumatology. Didn't quite get it after faffing around trying everything possible rather than have to make the insecure rock up onto the spikey edge above the really slopey bit of the all-sloping landing right above the approach gulley. Nothing else worked so eventually tried that and found it not-too-bad if a little scary, had a few goes but couldn't find the good bit of the also slopey top and eventually decided not to risk the wrath of the family by busting myself up on holiday and vowed to return more suitably equipped.
 

[Nibile]

Mon - rest and bike work.
Tue - weights. Power snatch 1 arm, front lever pulls. Very tiring. 43 degrees.
Wed - weights. Military press, one armed military press, triceps, biceps. 42 degrees, very humid.
Thu - Beast. Two arms dead hangs, +6/10 kg. OK but nothing special, 32 degrees at the board.
Fri - board. One problem set and tried, hard. Very hot, poor skin. Vol 4. Int 7. Tired from previous day.
Sat - bouldering. Little session, ripped off one starting hold of the project, then managed the move nonetheless. Happy but now harder to link, which is not bad after all. Tired.
Sun - rest and bike work. Very very tired.

All in all good week, considering the all time record temps. I am tired from all the past weeks efforts. Felt good on rock. A little less volume, high intensity to come. Good work with the new weights routines.
Let's go!

[Dr T]

Week Starting    20/8/12
Weight      ? on holiday in Cornwall all week –no scales
STG      7c
LTG      8a
Monday   Godrevy – very very greasy/slimy. Did 3 problems of grade note –
                Les Temp Passe original (7a –felt a little harder – probably due to grease) harder start not possible due to soaking
                pocket 
                Beach Ball (7a+) onsight, and Virginia (7a+) both felt easy, the cave floor was way too low climb any problems –
                just tidepools 

Tuesday   am Skimboarding for a couple of hours 
      pm Yoga – 4 sets of ham string/groin and 4 sets of shoulder/core (hard)

Wednesday   Clodgy – Uluru (7a) and Boomerang (7a+)  - failed on Salad fingers – too warm for the slopers

Thursday   Carn Brea – not impressed did 1 nice 7a wall.. the place was ruined but the dog sh!t
           pm Skimboarding, much more fun that the am climbing

Friday   Rain, evening Yoga – 4 sets of ham string/groin and 4 sets of shoulder/core

Saturday   Family day – just stretches in front of MOTD

Sunday   Family day – felt dodgy in evening started dead lifts, 5 reps 50kg, then up in 20kg to 130kg – managed 1 rep
                before heat stroke kicked in big time 

Comments    MUST be more careful with hydration when it’s hot…..

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July(Done), to 165lbs by end of August. (170lbs on Sunday - Going Backwards)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (10/10 done)
Climb two 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).  Moves done on two projects that are probably 8b/+ and 8c.  Should be able to send them by Oct.
NEW Goal - 8A+ by October

Monday - Mellow 6mi Run
Tuesday - Bouldered at Byron Glacier - Great Day out - Sent new 7A+, 7C, 7C/+(flash-Personal Best  ) 7B+(flash), 15 problems in total
Wednesday - 5mi run
Thursday -  Sm Hold Hangs, Wt Training
Friday - Hiked-Bouldered Archangel - Flashed 7B, Sent new 8A/8A+ , and new 7C, Felt really strong on 8A. 
Saturday - REST
Sunday - Sm Hold Hangs, Pwr End, Weights, Run

Felt super strong this week, but weight went up.  A friend was in town, so lots of drinking....

[duncan]

Sounds like people are getting out and doing stuff despite atrocious conditions (may not apply in Munich or Anchorage): well done everyone.

STG: rehab. gastroc. strain/tear.
MTG: os E5; rp 7b
LTG: various highly ambitious LH&F.

M - Fingerboard micro session
T - 10 pull-ups (in ones, not all at once obviously)
W - Fly to Norge. Magnificent seven (? I lost count) course meal courtesy host establishment.
T - PhD "opposition". Attending ceremonial dinner: speechifying, eating, singing, toasting candidate and anyone with a tangential connection with her endeavours.
F - Fly home from Norge. Fingerboard micro session.
S - Glyndebourne. Eating, drinking, other people singing.
S - Fingerboard micro session

Norway was a good experience, must go back when fitter, angling for academic collaborations...
Interesting to see a different PhD examination process with a lot to be said over the UK/US style 3-4 hour individual grilling. Negotiated culinary hazards without disastrous weight gain.

Off crutches, cautiously stretching out gastroc., started very cautious calf strengthening.

Plan: continue foot-off work, easy traversing, < ... >, Verdon in 10 days.

[wsmith]

Still resting and rehab-ing the elbow and wrists.

M.
T.
W. Setting. Did 100 move circuit second go.
T. Setting. 45 min bouldering. Routes- some redpoints on harder stuff and then some volume on easier things. Very tired.
F. Setting. 1 hour bouldering.
S.
S. Forest Rock. Got a quick belay so tried project twice, worked out some beta for crux but still havnt done the hard move. Some bouldering.

Fairly uneventful week. Quite keen for forest rock now though. Booked flights to Kalymnos for September on Sunday so plan to get some aerocap and some fingerboard in before then. Need to make sure the elbows are better by then aswell.

[richdraws]

STG (before Sept) - Boulder 7a new goal 7a+
MTG (Jan/Feb2013) - Boulder 7c
LTG lets see how we go

Mostly stuck in the house drawing after work, so tried to fit in a fingerboard session most days.

Mon - Works bouldering, tried some comp wall stuff for a change. I am pretty poor at this stuff so I'll have to persist.
Tue - Fingerboard plus arm work and stretching
wed - fingerboard,  stretching
thu - Trying to meet deadline - no time for fingerboard even.
fri - drove up north to wedding - hoping to squeeze some climbing in. Ended up at Durham wall climbing on condensation covered holds. Had 1st beer in 4 months.
sat - Wedding,loads of eating and driving
sun - Second rock climb of the year with SJW, went to Back Bowden and Bowden. Lost my dogs, got bitten terribly by midges. Dogs came back but the midges didn't fuck off. I tried a roof problem called Severus Snape, and did OK but am still climbing badly, forgetting sequences and lacking the concentration to put it together. Climbed Dog eat dog and got a scare from the sandy top out. Lovely climbing. Tried some 7c roof but there was at least one stopper move on it for me.


I finished drawing the graphic novel last night so should be able to get stuck into training and climbing a lot more now. Whilst I was drawing the comic and unable to get any hard training done I decided to get my weight down so my bmi was around 21 instead of 24-25. I think its down around 21.5 now. I doubt I could have done this whilst training regularly so I treat these few months like a out of season conditioning phase. I have been focussing on body composition, flexibility and raising session fitness (very gradually).

Cant wait for the grit season.

[andy_e]

STG get back up to strength
LTG 7C+

M: ClimbNE, some shoulder pain but also success on various projects.
T: Nothing.
W: Nothing.
T: ClimbNE. Felt a bit stronger, had a longer session without suffering shoulder-hurty.
F: House-warming pt. 1.
S: House-warming pt. 2.
S: Slipstones. Rained off before getting on anything tricky. Felt good climbing though and no shoulder pain.

[iain]

STG: Trad trip starting this weekend, onsight an E4 every non-rest day. Somehow get fit for IG

M: Rest and neck rehab. Sore. Ex-physio wife dredged her memory and figured out that I had a very swollen and stuck facet joint.
T: Rest and physio assisted neck rehab
W: Same
T: Started feeling mobile again. Tentative hangs session getting a decent pump. Hanging was ok, pulling up was not.
F: More mobile. 3x4min repeater hangs. Pulling up better but still sore.
S: Rest and rehab.
S: Woke up with neck feeling almost normal. Had a great day at the cuttings but perhaps unsurprisingly wasn't climbing that well, movement was poor. Tried Under Duress again and although I managed to repeat all the moves it feels much further away than it did. Also, I couldn't repeat a rest that I'd had that shortened the crux sequence by 3 moves. It was suggested that maybe my lack of yoga recently has changed something subtle.

This week: Confused what's best to do now having lost 1.5 weeks of potential training time, so I'm just going to do as much climbing as can before Friday and trip away.

[fried]

Monday - Brutally hot, went out to do a yellow circuit at rocher st.Germain, did 10 problems and had already drunk 2 litres of water, 42 degress apparently.
Tuesday - a bit cooler. 95.2 some oranges, blues.
Wednesday - Mont Ussy, did some oranges and my shoulders are starting to ache. Evening play at Petit Bois.
Thursday - Isatis, too much partying is taking it's toll, I try a few things with limited success.
Friday - Back to Paris
Saturday - Sunday - Trying to catch up on sleep/ food. Have a nice shower.

I also did the Orange circuit at Hautes plaines which was infested with wasps at some point although I'm having difficulty working out when.

Weight 74.3kg

[andy popp]

Mon - see last week
Tues - work/unpacking/still knackered
Wed - board, handful of what used to be warm ups, marginal improvement
Thurs - v brief circuits on board
Fri-Sun - away for mass family birthday bash

Nowhere near enough but all life seems to allow at the minute. This is very boring very everyone else but I'm going to try and keep it up as a motivational aid.

[tomtom]

Mon - see last week
Tues - work/unpacking/still knackered
Wed - board, handful of what used to be warm ups, marginal improvement
Thurs - v brief circuits on board
Fri-Sun - away for mass family birthday bash

Nowhere near enough but all life seems to allow at the minute. This is very boring very everyone else but I'm going to try and keep it up as a motivational aid.

About the rest of this week if the SS is dry enough to get out...

[andy popp]

Festivalling again this weekend Tom.

[shark]

The Saturday deadhang session was my first after a 2 week rest after completing the initial 8 week cycle. Like Eva found in her initial study the gains had all but gone as I was back down to 20kg on the larger edge. Although I've changed my mind a couple of times on this I've decided I'm going to repeat a further 8 week cycle of maximal hangs rather than doing an intermittant strength endurance hangs cycle.

The loss of gains (which seemed to be a major drawback with Eva Lopez protocol) seems to be rapidly reversible.

I've just done a second session on the larger edge and substantially increased the load by 5kg to 4x25kg which is at least where I was by the fifth session first time round so I anticipate comfortably exceeding my PB of 32.5kg over the next 6 sessions.

[Three Nine]

Any noticeable increase in ability on the wave etc. yet? I'm not taking the piss for once, just wondered if you're any stronger in any other context.

[shark]

Any noticeable increase in ability on the wave etc. yet? I'm not taking the piss for once, just wondered if you're any stronger in any other context.

Holding the outer slot of the beastmaker one-handed for 5 secs was a YYFY. Only been the Wave once recently. My fingers are significantly stronger on my fingery tor project which I went on last Oct.

Admittedly not enough to hang your coat on yet. The true test is when I kick your arse on the Wave this winter. Thanks for letting me have a headstart BTW.

[Three Nine]

There's corpses that could kick my arse on the wave

[Three Nine]

Still, I guess I was wasting my time ticking routes this summer when I should have been trying to hold the BM edge one-handed

[shark]

Still, I guess I was wasting my time ticking routes this summer when I should have been trying to hold the BM edge one-handed

That was a benchmmark test I happened to find I could do after the weighted deadhangs, not the aim.

I'm not motivated to do lots of routes I know I can do even if it looks good on the 8a.nu scorecard.

If the Oak had been in condition I would have put the time in on that. So fuck off.

[Three Nine]

Still, I guess I was wasting my time ticking routes this summer when I should have been trying to hold the BM edge one-handed

I'm not motivated to do lots of routes I know I can do

In all honesty, I just don't understand this!

[Nibile]

Routes come and go.
A BM feat lasts forever.