[csl]

Goals for July
Climb indoors regularly
Get at least 5 days on rock 2/5
Meet climbers in Cambridge to share lifts with
Onsight E5
18.20 5km

Mon- Nothing
Tue- KK - really good endurance session. 4x120move circuits and 20 minutes ARC.
Wed- Short run, felt like shit.
Thur- nothing
Fri- nothing
Sat-nothing
Sun- nothing

Pretty shit week, but nice to get 1 good session in. Must climb more!

Might spend this week in the peak, any tips for crags which will be dry, and not too hot in this summer which has just arrived? 7a-7c - E1-E5 route recommendations welcome as well?

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Rest.
T - Nothing - suck.
W - Gym, 2x10m arm cyc, 20m rec cyc, deadlifts - okay, cv stuff felt hard, not much time for weights.
T - Indoor routes @ GCC, medium routes all on steep wall - good
F - Gym, full heavy weights session, light cv - fine, did good weights, no energy left for cv.
S - Outdoor trad @ Pass Of Ballater, 2 medium routes - fine, very short day but felt okay on trad.
S - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, steady stamina circuits - okay, did some new stuff, put some effort in, skin sore.

Weight - 12 cunting stone.

Decent enough week. Did some training all round although not enough CV + weights combos. Elbow feeling better during the week and fine just now at TCA. Felt okay on the trad so keeping my hand in is working. Still shitting cunting heavy and the lack of full days out climbing is taking it's toll. Should be able to get back on it in a couple of weeks.

[nai]

goals 8a & E4

m-w rested
T weather made tor a non starter, rain stopped so decided to head to Stoney but on the final approach just couldn't face it so gambled on Rubicon, good decision in the end, managed kudos for first time in a few years.  Headed off fresh to save myself for Fri...
f .... rain stopped play....
S Almscliff - ran out of excuses not to get on Wall of Horrors and pushed into it by Grubes & tomtom, bit of a battle and a few nervy moments but got up it with a bit to spare. Quality.
s - family matters....

[Fiend]

Nice one on Wall Of Horrors, been on my list for decades.

[nai]

Cheers, been fascinated by it, and at the same terrified at the thought of it, since reading that Paul Williams account in OTE years back. Recall mention of the crucial hidden nut slot after the crux and how he abbed to find it, it's obvious of course and not hard to place gear in at all.  tomtom did a sterling job holding the camera:

[Oldmanmatt]

Well, bit more like it.

M- Quay, routes, problems and a long session on the board.
T- Dart rock, campus (foot on, small rungs, 1-4), till I couldn't hold on anymore.
W-Quay, as Monday.
T- swimming.
F- Quay, routes and problems.
S- fishing for tadpoles...
S- Bone hill, chasing kids and inventing eliminates on the Cube (did several other easy problems to warm up).

Weight - stubbornly 78.4 kg, put on 2 in the week in Cyprus (despite swimming miles each day) and it just won't bugger off. Bloody olives and cheese! (nothing to do with the wine or beer...)

[duncan]

Another BOGOF as I've been away.

STG: ??
MTG: 7b / E5

Week 126
M -
T - Hill Run
W -
T - Fly to Switzerland
F (the 13th part 1) - Bivi at 1.30, woken by cows at 4.30, hike in to Wendenstock, looks amazing through the mist, starts raining shortly before we arrive at crag, hike out again and go back to sleep at 7.30. 
F (part 2) - Schillingsflue (generic bolted Euro lime): various 5+ to 6a+. Shoulder OK.
S - Neuhaus/Lehn (Swiss Tremadoc: very good fine-grained sandstone): various 5+ to 6b+
S - Hintisberg (excellent big limestone crag with superb views of Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau). Zick-Zack: 6 pitch 6a+ (felt more like E3).  Drove up to Engelhorner bivi.  Crags look amazing, apocalyptic rain, bail to campsite.

Week 127
M - Drove over to Wendenstock: more snow on it than the Eiger. Back to Hintisberg. Todi: 4 pitch 7a.  Shoulder-busting crux but everything feels OK. YYFY!  Amazing bivi watching alpenglow on the N Face of Eiger.  All is well with the world.
T - Can't lift arm more than 30 degrees.  NNFN!
W - Glorious weather. Drive up to Wendenstock for a wistful glance.  Mostly dry.   
T - Glorious weather. Fly home.
F -
S - Hill run
S -

Positives: Bernese Oberland is an amazing destination, surely has some of the best FLMHMF routes  in Europe even if I didn’t actually get on any of them.  I did some climbing which didn’t seem likely three weeks ago.  Trips with Rope Gun are always good and he inspires me to climb well (and over-do things...).  I think he now realises that, in his mid-30s, he is going to need to climb or train more than occasionally to maintain his standard and this might help some of our LTGs. 

Negatives: stupid, stupid, stupid beginners mistake getting lured on a 7a.  When will I learn? Another X weeks off just as the weather is getting good, trips to Font. in a week and Norway in a month.

[iain]

it's obvious of course and not hard to place gear in at all.

Doesn't look like much of it though, nice one.

First week back after non-climbing holiday.
Weight 62.7. Goal is sub 62 average for mid-August

M/T: Nothing
W: Easy day on Portland in grim weather with beginner friend.
T: 15 min yoga. Gentle BM session
F: 15 min yoga. Another gentle BM session
S: 15 min yoga. Slightly less gentle BM session
S: Battleship. Attempted mileage day started ok and didn't fall off Victims of Fashion, then the sun came round and I started greasing off things I really shouldn't. Instead of getting too frustrated I had a look at Monoculture instead. Unsurprisingly it's hard, but all the moves are feasible. However, it's a no go until my finger's have properly healed up.

Holiday was a great break from climbing/training and I'm properly motivated again. The finger's also benefited from the break as well. Only two finger's have real problems now, although they're both joint injuries and taking a long time to improve. Three months so far and now that I've started I don't want to set things back so will stick to slopers in training for the time being.

Short term aim is to get a base and then down to blacker's hole as soon as possible.

[James Yeah]

Boulder + sport outdoor 7a. 6 pack.

158lbs current weight, goal is around 170-180lbs. (I may be the only person in this thread wanting to bulk up)


Mon- Rest but did 20 mins abs.
Tue - Weights, Bench pressing, curls. Hit 60kg bp 5x3 reps.
Weds -P90x Chest, back and tri's. P90x2 abs and p90x abs.
Thurs - Weights. BP, curls, chest flys.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Insanity max cardio + cardio abs. P90x back and biceps + abs.
Sun - Got Outside! Went to Churnet for the afternoon, only pottered around on cottage as was showing some friends who've never been outdoors before. Felt really strong even if it was only on v2+3's. Awesome to get out for a nice day on the rock.

[tomtom]

Another quiet week...
Sun. Helsby for some gentle hungover bouldering. oops - thats last weeks!
.
.
.
.
.
Sat. Almscliff - met up with Grubes and Nai, hungover again :-/ but had a good play on the old favourites. Felt pretty feeble but was good to get back out, and the conditions were 1/2 decent.. Good work by Grubes (Demon Wall) and Nai (WallofHorrors)...

[richdraws]

STG (before Sept) - Boulder 7a
MTG (Jan/Feb2013) - Boulder 7c
LTG lets see how we go

Mon
Tue - works bouldering circuits, attempting to nail circuit problems not completed yet. Then going for volume.
Wed
Thurs -  works BUSY bouldering circuits, tried to move up to the pinks. Did ok, but got tired (despite enforced rests) by number 10 ish.
Fri
Sat - works shhhh quiet, had a mess on and really enjoyed it.
Sun - ran in the woods with greyhounds, couldn't keep up.

Busy finishing graphic novel, so not had chance to get outside yet. I will no doubt be bullied to climb outdoors soon enough where I can see how much work is needed to get up 7a boulder.

[Yossarian]

I'm going to enter in the fray for the first time in a while. Not particularly climbing related though (for now, anyway...)

STG - Lose some weight and turn into bronzed Adonis

MTG - Regain cycling fitness, run a decent half marathon, lift some heavy weights, bit more bike racing.

LTG - Ironman / Sub 8hr Marmotte / move slightly nearer some rock and start climbing again

Three weeks into concerted training plan, and down from 97.2kg to 93.0 (measured this morning). Aiming to get down to 80.

Monday - Vaguely recovering from XC race Sat and Deadlifting Sun. Did semi-brisk 30 minute treadmill run.
Tuesday - Turbo trainer - Sufferfest Revolver - 45 mins of 1 min intervals.
Wednesday - 30 min run on treadmill AM. Upper body weights PM - 5 sets: Bench press (60kg) / Kettlebell shoulder press (16kg) / pull-ups on rings / dips on rings / hanging knee raises
Thursday - Deadlifting 100kg x 10, 130kg x 8 / 5 / 6 - felt a bit fucked so stopped
Friday - Evening off
Saturday - 55 mile hilly bike ride - first longer road ride since last year.
Sunday - AM - run with new Baby Jogger. First outside run for a couple of years, but still managed 4 miles. PM - Quick 20 mile road ride before catching the end of the Tour. Feeling Froomed..

Probably a bit much earlier in the week, but ascetic lifestyle / no booze / early to bed / careful post-exercise nutrition seems to help fast recovery.

[Sasquatch]

Summer Goals:
Drop Weight to 170lbs by Mid July(Done), to 165lbs by end of August. (170lbs on Monday)
Put up 10 7C+ or harder problems this summer (by October). (6/10 done)
Put Up 2 8b or harder routes this summer (by October).

Monday - Headed out to check out a new area a friend has been developing.  I tried to get to it last year, but the day was cut short by an injury to my friend-he fell and gashed open his forearm on a rock.  Repeated a handful of stuff he had put up and added a new 7A, 7B+, and 7C.   Awesome day out after work.  Didn't get home till 1:00am meant short night sleep.....
Tuesday - Run 4mi, Frame out new front deck
Wednesday - Run 4mi, Campus Session, 1hr mtn bike
Thursday -  Run - 8mi
Friday - Headed out to Archangel.  Short warm-up, then got on project from previous weeks and sent my 3rd 8A of the year!!!!  Got chased out by rain, but also managed a new 7C in 3 goes.  Explored and found about 40-50 new problems that look outstanding!!!  More motivation 
Saturday - Rest Day, Citizen Cope Concert
Sunday - Run 10 mi

Weather was much better this last week, unfortunately it raining again and probably will continue for a while. Got the weight to start dropping again.  Hopefully I'll be able to keep it up.  It's tough finding the balance between energy levels and weight loss.

[cheque]

M- Rest.
T- Deadlifting. New PB of 1.5xBW
W- Rest.
T- Indoor routes. Lots of onsight mileage up to 6b+. Poor tactics meant I got on the 6c right at the end and flailed.
F- Rest.
S- First visit to Rubicon- muddy and required wading. Did Miller's Tale quickly but didn't tick any of the 7s I tried. First visit to Raven Tor- bouldered with Shark and Thesiger  . Probably didn't make the best first impression on Thesiger by failing to spot him... Couldn't do the 7A there either.
S- Aldery Cliff trad. Three onsights up to E1 and some seconding. Helped with some guidebook work.

Good week. 7A doesn't feel too far away if I keep scheduling in a day a week of crimping. Now got a date for a Pembroke trip next week which is something to look forward to/ train for.

[shark]

Weight: 11.5-6 

M.
T. Day. Good weighted hangs session (-2.5kg assistance on small hold) Pleased with that. Eve. Foundry with Poppy. Hot and humid. Tried bouldering and pulling on the 40 degree board but was hopelesss.
W.Eve. Ihr of bog trotting round Burbage whilst Ben was at rugby practice
T. Day. Good weighted hangs session (+2.5kg on small hold). Psyched.
F. Toby and sons arrived. Drank too much wine.
S. PM With Toby to the tor. Hot and greasy. Did TinOf with one fall then redpointed it. 2 goes at Sardine falling at the crux both times. Burnt off by Toby and Cheque on Saline Drip
S. PM Pleasant afternoon at Burbage South bimbling around with respectibve families followed by dinner at the Fox House.

Dieting resolve disapated mid week. Appalling stamina at the tor. Dont care - those things can be taken care of. More importantly getting stronger fingers with every weighted hang session. +5kg today !

[Fiend]

A summit of UKB superpowers!

[shark]

A summit of UKB superpowers!

We have made plans for you...

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight: still getting closer. Onsighted an overhanging 17 metre "UIAA VII-/VII", which according to standard exchange rates should be about 6b. But I'm not counting it until I tick a full VII.
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes by ticking several classics in the V/V+ range in the Dolomites in three weeks.
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   
Right ring finger pulley feeling tweaked/tender, so took an easy week.

M:
T: Alpine approach training: 30 mins step-ups with heavy rucksack
W: Wall, Thalkirchen, routes: 5b, 6a, 6b (fell), 6b (fell), 6b (rp), 6b (fell), 6b (os), 6a, 6a+
T: Alpine approach training: 45 mins step-ups with heavy rucksack
F:
S,S: family stuff: boys' outing with my son & his friend

[Nibile]

Good week.
MON - deadlifts. Very good, quite happy, mentally strong, seemingly good tech. Increased PB by 2 kg, so 132 kg now.
TUE - rest
WED - board. Good, but more than 30° again. Single moves and short links up to 6/7 moves. Vol. 6/7. Int 7/8.
Thu - board. Tired. No skin. Boiling. Vol 4. Int 7/8. Front lever pulls 4x5 mov. Hard.
FRI - rest.
SAT - board. Boiling, very humid and still. Very very hard to get going, maybe didn't eat eough or properly. Then actually good, good links on projects. Vol 6/7. Int 8.
SUN - board with Mr. Monolith. Strong. Vol 6. Int 8. Good links, the project of my "PUSHIN'" video felt like 6b, climbed it easily then fell on the cross under move. Punter.

Good week, it got hot again, so it's been a bit hard to get going. The lifting felt amazing. Very surprised by the Sunday session, I felt strong, I felt like I had rested the day before but I hadn't. Links on projects kept getting longer and longer throughout the whole week. Unluckily I set long problems...

[Nibile]

EDIT: increased deadlifts PB by 4 kg, so 134. Just found out that 2+2=4.