[nicboarder]

What's the crack with southern sandstone bouldering then? Have heard mixed reviews, some say it is good, some saying it is not worth the drive. I am new to the south having been living in north west the last 4 years and don't know any climbers down here, or where to go bouldering outside. I am aware that I should probably have stayed in Lancashire, but work means a move! I am living in Winchester, so I should think it's about a couple of hours drive. Just got hold of the guidebook and it looks good. But I suppose I need to get a feel for the place, find out what the locals are like (will they be nice to a northern girl who is not a very good climber, or will they send me packing back up north), and see if I can hook up with folks for pad shifting and spotting etc.

Any info and personal experiences would be most welcome. Getting myself prepped with knowledge in case the summer should ever arrive.

[Baldy]

A lot of people slag off the southern choss,
I find it to be an aquired taste.


Some of it is utter rubbish and you'll find yourself wondering why you ever bothered turning up, but some of the other venues are actually alright.

Bowles is nice enough (but charge you a bit to get in - may be worth it since the venue is often quite nice with a decent scene)
Stone Farm is probably closest to you, fairly easy problems for the most part, but the rock is a little looser there.
Eridge green is alright, little bit of a longer walk in (5-15 minutes compared to 1-2 at bowles) quite a few harder problems V6-9.
Harrisons I found to be quite forgettable, but I went there for an afternoon with a school trip quite a long time ago.

Those are the crags I have been to (I only boulder - routes wise, you might be better asking someone else)

Overall, I'd say it is worth a trip if it has been sunny for a while, and you fancy getting outside. But you are probably equidistant from Portland, which is probably a better call all things considered.

[SA Chris]

What baldy said. If you are Ed Winchester based you are as well heading for Dorset, but go check it out the SS yourself, you might like it.

[nicboarder]

Nice one, reckon if it ever stops raining for a few days consecutively, I might give it a go. As for Dorset, is there much bouldering there? I would do routes, but not a lot of use on your own, and I don't know anyone down here as yet to belay with.

[tomtom]

I liked the SS, used to frequent Stone Farm as it was nearest to where I lived then.. It used to get slated alot, but I liked it. Some of the harder stuff is better quality as it doesn't get the traffic/wear of the easier stuff...

[SA Chris]

Nice one, reckon if it ever stops raining for a few days consecutively, I might give it a go. As for Dorset, is there much bouldering there?

Yeah, best avoid the SS if it's been raining, very soft and sandy even at the best of times.

I think the Dorset bouldering is documented in the guidebooks? Either old Rockfax or CC? I've not done any there so can't really enDorset.

(sorry)

http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/miniguides/portland-bouldering-cuttings-boulderfield/

for starters.

[Baldy]

I think most of bouldering in dorset is in the cuttings boulder field?

Not the best, often grab and pull type problems with quite a lot of small, sharp & polished holds.
But - if it is your thing...

There are some really nice problems there (movement wise) and it is a nicish venue (due to the proximity to the sea rather than the locals + dog poo)

Either old Rockfax or CC? I've not done any there so can't really enDorset.

(sorry)

Superb punnage 

[benpritch]

I think southern sandstone is amazing. What SAChris said about avoiding it if it has been raining but if it ever does dry out High rocks is one of the best crags in the country (pricey but a season ticket is good value) Bowles is nice and will dry quicker than other venues. Personally (and this is obviously a very subjective view) I would go sandstone before dorset every time. Don't be put off by the negative reviews, there is the odd sandy hold but if you pick your venues you'll have a great time.

[Probes]

Seeee nic...    never listen to Mr. A. He's full of 

[i.munro]

I think southern sandstone is amazing. What SAChris said about avoiding it if it has been raining but if it ever does dry out High rocks is one of the best crags in the country (pricey but a season ticket is good value) Bowles is nice and will dry quicker than other venues. Personally (and this is obviously a very subjective view) I would go sandstone before dorset every time.

Hmmm. I think the above needs to be qualified a bit by bearing in mind that Ben is a) very good &  b) a fairly infrequent visitor these days AFAIK.

While there are some brilliant problems, particularly at High Rocks , there aren't that many below 7A that will be dry in a normal summer.
(in the guide there's a lot of easy stuff on the bowling green boulders but these are rarely dry). I can, offhand, think of only one really good problem  below 6A & only a couple at that grade. There's a lot more choice at 7A - shame I can't actually do any of them :-(

Bowles does dry faster & so a good/ the only choice in this sort of weather but most of the bouldering is on Fandango wall which is perhaps 4m wide. Last time I was there I'd guess there were 20 -25 people trying to share that 4m wide bit of rock.

[nicboarder]

Hmmm. Think I am even more confused.  I certainly can't climb 7a as Probes will confirm! Think it is going to be a bit of exploring and hit n miss in the first instance.  Someone told me about the bouldering at cuttings field today and said it is great. Not sure I like the sound of the dog poo though!

SAChris - nice punnery. like it. 

Probes - Yes Mr A is totally full of crap and I bet he hasn't even been there! I never listen to owt he says anyway. Drop me the name and contact of your friends you were telling me about who live that way and might see if I can hook up with them. I am sure they have all the knowledge and BETA if they don't mind me turning up and following them around like a lost puppy.

Think I am just gonna have to get my sport climbing head on. Next mission. Belaying buddies. Any takers? 

[andy_e]

Seeee nic...    never listen to Mr. A. He's full of 

[nicboarder]

He is full of lots of things!