I notice this has gone quiet for a while, do people still rate this technique?I'm about to commit to actually training finger strength only for the first time ever you see. Can you use this method one-armed? I can't actually one-arm a small edge yet but I think that's mainly to do with shoulder weaknesses and not problems with finger strength.
I'm about to commit to actually training finger strength only for the first time ever you see. Can you use this method one-armed? I can't actually one-arm a small edge yet but I think that's mainly to do with shoulder weaknesses and not problems with finger strength.
There are plenty of folk doing assisted one-armed hangs etc. on fingerboards in various grip types, don't really think there is any real need to attribute the half-crimp grip to being a "lopez" grip, or follow a "lopez protocol", just train it and see how you go.
Quote from: rodma on August 27, 2014, 01:34:07 pmThere are plenty of folk doing assisted one-armed hangs etc. on fingerboards in various grip types, don't really think there is any real need to attribute the half-crimp grip to being a "lopez" grip, or follow a "lopez protocol", just train it and see how you go.I think of the "lopez" protocol as more being 5 x 10sec max hangs, where you are able to complete at least the first 3 hangs. Not so much the prehension. I'd also say if you're doing 1-arms, thats not really the lopez version anymore either.
Are you trying to build up to a 1-arm pull on a small edge? if so you have answered your own question (whetehr correctly or not is another matter entirely)
I've tried bouldering hard to improve finger strength but my skin always gives out before my fingers if I have multiple session in a week. I hate to have to substitute a climbing session for Fingerboarding but can't see another solution
This is why I find the Lopez shizzle no different to anyone else's prescribed methods. "hmm I like the number 10 and 10 is nice and easy to remember so let's say hangs of 10 second duration"
I'm certain that sticking to a preprescribed routine can make a difference to someone who isn't able to get enough out of their current training (I'm including even just climbing in that use of the word "training" ) and isn't able to decide or analyse what exercises and durations/repetitions etc they should perform.
Everyone on here trains differently, moves differently, pulls differently, rests differently, etc etc, so whilst it may be comforting/encouraging to obtain anecdotal (at best) information on this type of training, just try it and give it beans ffs
I'm adding 40kg (I'm an actual fat bastard at 87kg and 6'2"Whats the general thinking on this?
I'm on an 18mm campus rung at the moment which is working well although at some point I may have to make that smaller with a bit or cardboard or something. The big problem I have with the B2K is that it suddenly jumps (2 handed at least) from like 30mm to 10mm hence the seperate rung.