[Tim Heaton]

Been trying, read failing, to get some slabs done recently and was wondering precisely what the rules were for getting started off you slab aficionados. I find it really difficult to get my first step onto the rock as my body isn't really above the holds. On quite a few the only way I could get started was by sort of bouncing on, e.g. put left foot on rock, no hands, and kind of bounce to a standing position by pushing of the right foot. Obviously cheating if you are just jumping to grab a higher hold with your hand but I was wondering if all you are doing is standing up whether this is a kosher technique or still not really cricket, unfortunately I have a feeling it's the latter.

I think I need to get some stronger feet somehow as I guess they must move a bit in a pull on and slow stand up method. Can anyone suggest some good slab problems for me to try in a kind of school exam style?

[dave]

bounce-ons are kosher in my book, most of the time.

if you've got weak feet, get some stiff boots, and work through the grades. try, no-handed stuff, then you can't get round hard moves by pulling, forces you to work wid yo feet.

[tommytwotone]

come on then, I feel my manly imperative to write lists being provoked...

if yo want the lights on the Good Year blimp to read "you are a slab p*mp", where do rock the mic?

(Bearing in mind this is to learn how to do 'em and so will be easyish stuff, and will be v Peak-centric)

Cratcliffe top boulders - couple of good uns there

Pac/Pock man at Burbage South

The Lone Bouder at Stanage

Joe's / below Tody's wall at Froggatt

That massive one at Higgar's always good for impressing the ramblers and all

If we're counting slabby aretes, I'll have Cresent and Pebble Aretes as well, thank you please.

Hope that's some help!

[dave]

i'll second pock man, although its primarily edging, doing it sans chips is a good B5. not that fussed about the cratcliffe top boulders since they are mainly on knackered chips.

a good thing for getting to trust your feet is the pull onto deliverance/the traverse. also on the pebble the B6 slab right of the big holds on the B2 is good. honorary caley is a good easier slab.

would not recomend crescent arete really. the roaches slabs are good though, and theres a good "B4" smearing test at the 5 clouds, its in the guide, on the main edge above that free-standing boulder.

[Tim Heaton]

Thanks very much, they are all indeed quality slabs but have done most of them already. Still can't do a 7a in Font though which was one of my aims for this trip. I was however most chuffed with a 6b black slab behind Envie D'Ailes at Elephant, really nice problem. Any other suggestions to narrow the gap between myself and Monsieur Le Denmat to a gaping chasm rather than an infinite abyss?

[Bubba]

Yeah, some good uns at the Roaches Spring Boulders, and those lone boulder slabs are good too - you can do a tricky traverse of the lone boulder slab.

The traverse under Deliverance is desperate these days - I did it years ago but it just feels a bit polished now. Might just be me though. There's that tiny little slab about halfway along Burbage North too which is fun to climb on just about anywhere.

[Jim]

ron's slab on the pebble is good, not done the last move to the top yet as kept bottling it cos its quite high up but there's a good rock up move and some smeary footwork near the top.
pebble wall is excellent up at caley for developing your footwork as well (not done this yet either)

[Bonjoy]

Beauty V5 at Stanage far left - Really good balancy no holds smearing. It took me ages to relax into the footholds on this (girlfriend got up it b4 i did :shock: (i really need to put more time in on slabs).

[dave]

Been trying, read failing, to get some slabs done recently.......

may i suggest less time spent bouldering in badger sets young man.

i'm talking roche aux sabots here.....

 :wink:

[Tim Heaton]

Do you mean that roof to the right of Graviton? I only had a couple of goes before I realised that to manage the top out would require me to have triceps the size of beachballs. Besides I like badgers, they look like they are having fun here:

 http://www.badgerbadgerbadger.com/

[Tim Heaton]

And also here, although slightly off topic

http://www.weebl.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/badger.html

[Andy F]

Get yourself to Pex Hill and try the problems on Lady Jane wall. Classics to go at are Algripper (V2), Twin Scoops Direct (V3), Bermuda Triangle (V4), Bernie the Bolt (V6), Catalepsy (V7) and Breakaway (V8).

If your going really well try Monoblock......


Andy F

[Johnny Brown]

(enter self-styled slab guru, stage left)  ...ahem

As Dave said, the important thing is finding stuff with no handholds, or doin easy stuff 'sans mains' - roaches spring boulders and burbage north tiny slab are probably the best of the short stuff. Deliverance traverse is good, but the easy bit is really polished and the hard bit is actually dead powerful on the fingers - and all the time the ever-present danger of skinnin yer shins

Unfortunately all the really good stuff is kinda high, however this does have the advantage of testing whether you really do trust your feet.  :roll:
However wiv a couple of pads, shock horror slab and the daydreamer slabs (left of plantation) are all good.

i don't reckon stiff boots are the way tho. I reckon velcros - they're best just before they wear through, when they're super sensitive. The only ones I remember needin the stiff boots are Syrett's saunter and rollerwall.

[dave]

5-10 velcros are actually quite stiff really, certainly at the side of ninjas (what the fuck are ledenmats feet made of?) and mocasyms.

[mozzer]

a good thing for getting to trust your feet is the pull onto deliverance/the traverse. also on the pebble the B6 slab right of the big holds on the B2 is good. honorary caley is a good easier slab.

Dave I reckon that B6 is about B3 if you can reach the top - I can and you are about 10 foot taller than me!

[dave]

bollards - were you using the massive inch-wide hold next to the flakes?  :roll: