[ned]

tried this t'other weekend and its nails....
Had my right foot in pocket and right hand on that good sidepull, left hand on the poor holds on the left wall and left foot on a smear. Do you just keep going again with our left hand to the top or is there some techinichal way of doin it?

I also tried it startin with my left hand on the pinch thing on the arete but this felt like cheating as it takes out a hard move....

any advice please, cheers.

[Jim]

I start as you but with LH over pinch type thing on arete, then stand up and hard move slap round arete higher up and get feet onto face, then get feet on good smears and slap for the good holds (ie the top) nb. I fell of last easy move but have seen others do it this way. last time I tried it I ripped from sidepull and was without skin on back of hand for quite some time

[ned]

thanks..
that sidepull isnt the best hold to pop off!

Ill go back sometime soon and ave it then...i hope

[Johnny Brown]

Trick is to concentrate on gettin on to right-hand side of the arete in a layback position. This then removes the hard slap move at the top.
Second tip, if persistin with slap method (despite watchin spoon repeatedly fail on stick it) is to slap for horizontal pinch just above sloper - slightly easier to hang. :wink:

[ned]

Trick is to concentrate on gettin on to right-hand side of the arete in a layback position. This then removes the hard slap move at the top

Were abouts on the arete? it seems a bit blank... might be hard to catch that pinch when im flailing towards it but ill try

ta very much.

[Johnny Brown]

Soory maybe didn't make meself clear.
Get all four limbs onto the right-hand side, into a layback position and you get in balance enough so as not to have to slap. Normally you have left foot on left hand side and left hand cupping the arete (thumb down), right foot in pocket and right hand on sidepull. Instead of trying to hug your way straight up, rock right from this til you get left foot smearing up and left of right foot. At some point you flip left hand from thumb down to thumb up, I forget when

[mark]

Here's my sequence…

I pull on with right hand on the sidepulll, left on the arete thumb down. Hop right foot onto a smear, leave left leg dangling. Flick left hand around from thumb down to thumb up on the arete, the hardest move for me. Then left foot on a good smear near the arete and right foot onto a bulgy smear just beneath right hand. Rock rightwards over this and snatch with right hand for a good flat fingerhold up and right.

If you're tall you can start with left hand thumb up and you're down to a single hand move.

[dave]

here's my sequence

left hand thumb-up on best bit of arete, right hand on sidepull. Feet on floor. Jump left foot up to smear on arete at face height. right toe below RH to pull you in and pop for the ledge. fuck the shorties.