[shark]

So what's the lowdown?? Kristian has rebolted some of the routes. What's been rebolted, what's good...???

[nai]

Have you seen:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9392.msg361130.html#msg361130

[shark]

Have you seen:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9392.msg361130.html#msg361130

No I hadn't, or if I had I forgot. Thanks.

[kc]

Two Sheep To Leicester is perhaps the only worthwhile route left to bolt.

The two 8a+'s on Crunch Buttress need looking at. Both are good but where poorly created.

[Bonjoy]

Did Afloat, Moat People and Tripe yesterday, all really good routes. Good work Kris.
Also tried Moatorhead which seemed 7c even with the no hands rest. How much of this was due to it being in the sun I don't know. It has lost a hold on the upper crux section which has possibly also made it harder.
Moat Wall looked like it would be worth equipping. Maybe a bit unbalanced but the hanging groove is a great feature.

[Lily]

I pulled part of a sloper off the crux of MoaterHead on monday.

It might have made it a little bit harder but not much. The hold was poor to start with and ended up marginally worse.

[Bonjoy]

This is probably the hold loss Nathan mentioned. If it's the sloper used for your RH near the end of the crux section (it looked to have lost a bit of weight), I don't think this will have made it much harder.

[kc]

It was good enough for a clip but now it gives only a feeling of urgency. Give it a polish or warmth and it will surely make 7c.

[highrepute]

Was down here yesterday and attempted what I thought was A Bigger Thud http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=227483

I left Tripe at the overlap, shuffled left to the line of bolts to the left and proceeded to get shutdown! Felt more along the lines of 8a/+ to me. didn't look like any holds had fallen off, just a lot of tiny undercuts and sidepulls.

Anyone know whether I was on a bigger thud and being a dunce or is there a hard line up here now?

[leeroy]

thats a bigger thud, hardest 7c ive tried in the peak (harder than the boltest!)

It was something about getting up on that tiny rh undercut then big stretched (i'd imagine even harder for you) moves up the wall on sidepulls. I need to go back and do it first but It seemed harder than 7c to me.

[kc]

If it was given 7c+ no one would try it. If it was given 8a then it would get only get downgraded. So that is how you create an infamous 7c.
 No but seriously I did not find it any harder than Triple. Way more sustained and technical,  but in no way as powerful. Would be a bugger to make a chalkless on-site as the rock is so solid and intricate.
By the way take a look at No Mud No Thud to the left. This is a tricky one that has been overlooked by everyone as it got reequipped when the new guide went to print. In my opinion the best route on the crag.

[highrepute]

Thanks for the lowdown. I shall return in the knowledge that it's 7c+ and try a bit harder.

Have to admit when I was deciding between trying a bigger thud and no mud no thud I thought the 7c looked a lot more interesting. Something about the damp overlaps put me off! I'll give that a go when I go back.

Thanks for bolting Kristian.

[mrjonathanr]

I went on No Mud No Thud today. Desperate. Failed to dog end crux move off undercut to good flake abkve the roof. 7b+ really? I know I haven't been on a rope for ages but am I that useless? For comparison I did Let tge Tripe Increase 3rd try a yead or two back and this felt harder.