[tomtom]

Nothing. I write from the train on the way back from London after a couple of days of family stuff - including imbibing an enormous steak yesterday The rest of the weak (ha!) was taken up by snot (mon > wed) and work (mon> friday). Hoping to get out tomorrow (monday) if the weather holds....

Sorry for the crap power club first post - at least everyone else can do better than this!

[csl]

Goals for May
Onsight Bloody Sunday in Pembroke this weekend - Done.
Onsight 7a at Malham - Not done!
Climb Space Race - done!
Under 18.50 5km - got a new PB yesterday of 18.30. Goal for the year done!
4+ endurance sessions a week to prepare for Ceuse. - going ok so far, should do the same this week.

Mon- Malham - Did Space Race quite easily, first RP of the day. First 7b+. Also tried New Dawn, which felt nails and did laps on consenting.
Tues- Malham - Lead Puddlejmper and consenting twice. Back on New Dawn which came together pretty quickly. Got a sequence for it all now. Gonna start getting on the lead.
Wed- Trollers Gill. Laps. About 10 laps in 4 sets on Barguest Direct and Jim Grin
Thur- Malham - Free and Even Easier, Consenting and tried a very wet Taking the Space. Should have waited till it was dry, could be a very onsightable 7b/7a+.
Fri- Leeds Wall - Good Endurance session. 4x4s including some 7's to start the sets. Got very pumped!
Sat- Park Run - 18.30 9th place. New PB
Sun- Nothing

[tomtom]

Nice one thesiger....

It appears earlier I lied - I snuck out when I got home tonight
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.msg362749.html#msg362749

[tommytwotone]

STG: Cliff tickage
LTG: Font 7b
 
M -Unpacking after knackering weekend moving house. Sneaked in a 5 mile run.
T - Board session, really enjoyable.
W - Nowt.
T - Depot session, busy and hot but did knock off one of my projects.
F - Nowt.
S - Over to York to watch West Ham beat Blackpool 2-1! 
S - Spend all day hungover playing XBox.

[Duma]

Nice one csl/TT/thesiger.
Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) cardio every week. Going well
- Weight consistently 68ish. Going ok
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year. UK tick, font will have to wait till Autumn now
- 5 probs at or above 7C this year. 2 down, 3 to go
- 8a this year. Need to get out more All on hold until I...
- Fix wrist

M - Run, 6m, grass, flat, 45min. Pleased, felt pretty tired but kept pushing. think sub 40 is doable for this circuit.
T -
W - Run, 14.5m, off road, hilly, 2:09. Chuffed, was aiming for 9 min/miles and made it. Felt a lot better than a few weeks ago with a few more miles in my legs. The gorgeous evening probably helped too.
T -
F -  too much drinking, 4 hrs sleep.
S - 12 hr shift, 6 hrs sleep.
S - 12 hr shift.

Weight: 69-70.

Pleased with the running progress, though work has interfered for the last few days. No change in wrist after a week off, but it's too early to draw any firm conclusions.

[wsmith]

Week 19 of plan.

M. Garage. Aerocap - 2 x 20,10s  2 x 10min continuity.
T. Warwick. CB - laddering on small rungs, 1-3-6 on small rungs which is progress for me.
30min bouldering.
4 burns on their 100 move circuit, basically 60 moves as first 40 are easy. Need to do more like 8 burns to count this as a proper aeropow session but ran out of time.
W. 20min run/row. Antagonist - pressups, dips, tricep stuff.
T. Garage. 45 min bouldering. Ancap - 2x5 goes on 17 move circuit. Rep rest 2min 30. Set rest 5 min. Completed on all 10 reps! Did an extra 3 reps on the end with 2 min rep rest but fell on these. Good.
F. 20 min run.
S. Garage. 30 min bouldering. Ancap - 2x5 goes on 16 move circuit. Rep rest 2min. Set rest down to 4 min. Almost did all 10 on this circuit too but slipped on rep 8. Did 2 extra reps on the end with 1min 30 rep rest but fell on these.
S. Northampton. Redpoints on routes. Not climbing very well.

Seems like a breakthrough in ancap Hopefully gains will transfer to real routes at some point...
Lost 0.8kg at end of last week but have put 0.7 back on this week.

[Three Nine]

including imbibing an enormous steak yesterday

Really? you drank it?

[tomtom]

Imbibe as in assimilate.

Verb:   
Drink (alcohol).
Absorb or assimilate (ideas or knowledge): "propaganda you imbibed in your youth".

Synonyms:   
absorb - drink - soak up - drink in - soak - assimilate

[duncan]

Congratulations to IO2

STG: get fit for long routes in Switzerland
MTG: E5 by end 2012

M - Index finger sore from crimping fossils at Portland
T - Fingerboard 'repeaters' [foot on]
W - Hill run
T - Fingerboard 'repeaters' [foot on]
F - Short hill run
S - Mile End: 40 x V0-V2
S - Walking in Chilterns

Index finger tweakage: joint/ligament rather than pulley/tendon as happy open-handing but dislikes any lateral stress. Strapped it up like a sausage and fingerboarded/climbed everything on back three.  Still focusing on general fitness and aerobic capacity (...or just learning to use a fingerboard without hurting myself).  Onwards and upwards.   

[cheque]

M- Rest.
T- Planned to do core but listened to body, which was saying "have hot bath, a stretch and read the new moorland grit guide"
W- Millstone bouldering. Unfortunately in bendy green Anasazis totally unsuited to the little footholds. Technical Master felt harder than ever, but Green Death start was close to going first session and should go in whites. Easy soloing to end.
T- Knackered again. Rest.
F- Rest.
S- Slept all day, then Stanage classics onsight soloing in the evening- 22 routes with no-one else about. 
S- Roaches. Visited skyline for first time and ticked some routes off my massive grit list.

Fun. Felt run down all week but seem top have slept it off on Saturday. Must try to actually get some supplementary training done this week. With warmer weather coming probably get on some sport soon, too.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Better

M:
T: Mobility, yoga, core
W: Wall, Thalkirchen: easy warm up then 6a+, 6a, 6b, 6a+, 6c(*), 6b, 6a+. Starting to consistently onsight/flash multiple routes in the 6a+/b range in a session, rather than trying a couple then being wasted. Good. Should at some point start trying to redpoint harder things though: my 6a to 6b+ pyramid is 81:55:23:5, so a bit too flat really.
(* 6c attempt: desperate thin slab, got nowhere)
T: Mobility, yoga, core. Run: moderate 30 minute jog; severe pain in right calf
F:
S: Real climbing, Konstein. Relaxed day out with a friend who is still in mental rehab from a big accident in the Alps last summer, so nothing too ambitious. But ticked two 6a's that are major Frankenjura classics at the grade - Mittlere Weisse Wand , Bergspinnenkante - of which mww was high on my to-do list after I fell off it last year, so yyfy.
S: Mobility, yoga, core. Swimming with son: 3-metre board jumps (falling practice)

[Nibile]

Did nothing apart:
- THU bouldering. Nearly climbed my project. It was hot and I was weak, but got to the last hold on every attempt. It will go. Dawn patrol needed.
- SUN board. First session in two weeks. Very very hard to start back again. One problem set and worked. Two others worked. Vol 7. Int 8.

[chris05]

I have taken a week off finger boarding/training this week.

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (3 done - 2 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: Bouldering at Anston, managed a new 6C but none of the 7's which feel as though they should go soon, maybe.
T: 4.7m run, theraband & eccentric curls
W: rest
T: 4.7m run, theraband & eccentric curls
F: 4.7m run
S: Bouldering at Churnet - made progress on 50 pence prob and limp lizard, still a way to go though
S: easy trad and bouldering at Curbar and Froggatt

Pleased to get three runs and three sessions outside, back to training this week although will prioritise getting out when ever I can.

[iain]

More congrats to csl/TT/siger

An intentionally slow week for me, weight av 62.5kg and at 63 dead this morning which is ok given the lack of activity last week. It should head in the right direction again this week.

M: 15m yoga
T: 15m yoga, pull ups and some BM PE work on the 35s
W: Rest
T: 15m yoga, a gentle max hangs session testing fingers (improving) and r.elbow (still tender). Good session including front levers and l.arm one armers just because I could.
F: 15m yoga
S: Good day at Boulder Ruckle, underwhelming HVS (CC guide), redid Elysium E1 for the camera (still brilliant and possibly coming to a guidebook near you soon) then seconded Dune Dust E3 which felt almost easy. Finished by getting up but not really enjoying White Dwarf E2 but put that down to tiredness and poor tactics given that it was last Sept since I last had a day that long.
S: Had planned second day at BR with my better half but she decided it was a much better idea to have an indulgent pub lunch/laze about sort of a day and she was right.

Getting mentally and physically tired doing easy(ish) moves all day was expected so the plan now is good volume without knackering myself. Great being back on the trad sharp end though 

[nai]

M - Planatation to finish off HTY, only the move off the floor was nails again and all I did was open holes in my hands
T- Rubicon, only for an hour to test the water, first time bouldering on lime for 21 months so pleased to find Millers Tale ok and best effort yet on The Press.
w
T - builders cleared up and shipped out so hit the garage, foot on laddering, performed appallingly of course, 4x4 60s on 70s off, 3 mins rest. Last 3 sets were a disaster.
F - assisted one arm lockoffs & pullups x5 each arm (too much twisting without assistance, aim is to strengthen stabilising muscles in shoulder). 
then garage 2 mins on, 5 mins off x4.  Last set just completed
S - assisted lockoffs + shoulder and tricep work.
s


the 8A+E4 goal may be alive after all, if I can summon the enthusiasm to find my rope out.  Still busy with house and work for a couple of weeks but the worst of it should be over soon.

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; don't wreck my elbow, climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Nothing.
T - Outdoor bouldering @ Craigmore, easy-medium mileage - pleasant enough, bottled out of the E3 finish to The Wizard but felt fine on the rock.
W - Outdoor bollox @ Glen Lednock & St Bride's Wall - odd mixture, rubbish attempt at unpleasant trad, followed by quite good bouldering, did White Matter which I didn't do last year, maybe not too weak. Elbow tender but okay.
T - Gym, 2 x 12 mins arm cyc, 20 mins rec cyc, full weights with focus on low reps high weights - fine, arms good, legs tired.
F - Rest.
S - Trad @ Neist, one big route - did Supercharger, mostly easy but unnerving in places, great summit tick.
S - Trad @ Neist, 3 medium routes - okay, mostly bumbling, team of 3 plus cold etc, didn't try anything hard but was fun. Elbow sore probably due to bad sleep.

Weight - back to being even fatter 12.3 stone

Decent week. Got out a bit which was nice but still feel very bumbly....Neist was as lovely as ever and Supercharger was a cool tick but didn't get on anything challenging. Highlight was actually doing a boulder problem, which felt like I was at least keeping up with last year. Just need to translate that into more aggression and determination on the trad. Elbow still fucked but seems able to cope with most climbing as long as it's not too cold. Dismaying that weight goes up so fucking easily but trying to keep the dismay out of my mind and just get on with being active.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Find dry limestone in the Peak - Climb some routes on it up to 7c+, Do the brown 7c on the works circuit board..

M: Err
T: AnCap on board - Did well on 15 move circuit.
W: 10 mile fell run.
T: Mileage/AeroCap @ The works
F: Drive to a Stag do in Herefordshire
S: AM: 5 mile hill run PM: 25+ Mile cycle around Herefordshire - Would have had reasonable training value if it wasn't for the 3 cider orchards that were visited and the vast quantities of cider consumed.
S: Paddle down the Wye with a hangover.

A week of nearly dones I feel - Didn't manage to do half what I wanted due to a myriad of external influences not least a wierd split on my fingertip that made touching anything agonisingly painful. Still managed 2 sessions but must try harder this week.

This week: Stop bloody slacking!

:D

[shark]

11.3-7 (previous week 11.7-9)

M.
T.
W. Noon. Malham. Cold. Oak dry cons x 3. Got the link I wanted on Oak - thin undercut to horn also started working from ground and got to undercut by 3rd. Did the throw move just off 3 fingers a couple of times which not done before. Finish 2x F&EE. Bob did the Oak and then looked close on Unjustified. Jim from Manchester got close on Cry Freedom twice. Good day quite long.
T.
F.Morning. Tor Variable conditions. Wild in Me looked damp so went on Obscene Toilet. Not ideal conds but felt stronger on crux than when did Toilet 2 years ago - multiple redpoint attempts - best go going for good hold on crux
Eve. Foundry with Poppy and Tom. Bouldered on Wave but tired quickly not surprisingly
S. 5K Park Run with Poppy
S. Malham (11.3) Hot then cooled down. Warmed up on Cons then F&EE. Debated which link to aim for and Seb persuaded me to go for 3rd bolt to top which I got second go (see below) which was a first for me  Also did several other OK links including going from ground to failing on throw twice. Tom top roped F&EE in a oner on his 4th go!!  (clip also on my youtube account if interested) John Freeman got the Oak and Rich got Connect 5 and Teaboy got NAT.
 

[davej]

looking strong shark

[iain]

looking strong shark

Indeed  , and nice one Tom.

I'm really liking that loads of the linked vids on youtube are Schwarzenegger

[Duncan Disorderly]

It's just a matter of time now Simon....  Beast!

[cheque]

Nice one Simon (and Tommy)! Well keen for Malham after watching those videos.

[Doylo]

Is cute hearing the kids saying 'go on dad'. I used to say it to my old man (on 6as)

[north_country_boy]

Nice one Simon! Looking strong, the end is in sight I would say...

[shark]

Cheers guys

Its all coming together nicely. Only just come back from being up there again but too hot for the Oak so I worked Mescalito though Ben Freeman sneaked in a redpoint of the Oak at 8.30pm though it was still warm then.