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Another solution??? (Read 1431 times)

dave k

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Another solution???
April 13, 2004, 11:32:12 am
Having spent a large part of yesterday stuck indoors with nought to do, I had a read of the British grade debate in earlier threads. How does this solution sound?

Keep UK technical grades up to 6a. Then font grades 7a and on .

The argument
> I don`t see much trouble with UK up to 6a. Pretty spot on in most cases.
> Very few new problems are climbed at below 6a (well in the fully explored areas)
> Variety of other good arguments in favour of Font 7a and above- see earlier discussion.

And contrary to most it seems, i reckon the Bleausards have got it right, you should grade propper traverses (>10 moves ish) differently. Giving them a sports grade is about right i reckon.

Evidence- J traverse on the Business Boulder- (which I havn't done I better say), J traverse at Cratcliffe,  Green traverse (which I have) - don't have any really hard moves in them, they require a fair bit of stamina though. Do any true boulderers have stamina? :wink:    

Personally I just don`t get the same satisfaction from a traverse than I do from a straight(ish) up problem. Is that just me?

Jim

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#1 Re: Another solution???
April 13, 2004, 12:42:23 pm
Quote from: "dave k"
Do any true boulderers have stamina? :wink:

2 moves and I'm pumped

Blunk

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#2 Another solution???
April 15, 2004, 05:08:44 am
I reckon boulderers have only a small bit in their brains dealing with satisfaction. Ain't large enough to hold anything longer than 30 seconds, so only straight-ups and orgasms count as satisfying.

 

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