[tomtom]

A good week
M:
T:
W: Cheeky evening Almscliff visit (had a guest so had to be fast..) usual repeats.. came very close to latching the high crimps on Stu's LH (from standing) - a bete noir of mine given my non-propensity for rock overs... 3 laps of Underhand crux (extension training..)
T:
F: Met up with Nai to have a play on Brad Pit. Got alot further than I ever have before - got heel on well a good few times and got to lunging for the flake. It sounds like no progress - but the next move feels feasible with a bit more strength and the outside edge of the RF seems to be key to getting the elevation..
S:
Su: A quick hour at Helsby after a large lunch with friends... good warm up - found a new problem (I think) that I couldnt do.. nearly had a YYFY but I dropped the last move on a 7A (I think 7A+) traverse... then core fingers and all failed.

First week in ages I've managed to get out 3 times.. good times. Feeling fairly strong and well conditioned for want of a better word...

[fried]

Monday - 3rd climbing day in 4 and I'm feeling tired. Go to J.A Martin to find something quick-drying. The sun comes out and it's hot and sweaty. Too much indoor climbing leads to me spending 20 minutes misreading a problem. Feeling achey, lay around in the sun and fail to find enough energy to anything much.

Tuesday - nothing
Wednesday - Go to investigate Block'out wall north of Paris before they open there centre in Paris, it's good and at last we'll have some competition. Some people will be getting very nervous.

Thursday - Saturday - Various shoulder stuff.
Sunday - indoor hungover easy session.

Goal at the moment is don't get injured before the yearly peak trip (like font in reverse).

[Duma]

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) cardio every week. Going well
- Weight consistently 68ish. Going progressively worse
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year. UK tick, font will have to wait till Autumn now
- 5 probs at or above 7C this year. 2 down, 3 to go
- 8a this year. Need to get out more

M - run, 14m, off road, hilly, 2:26. utterly fucked by the end, and it pissed it down for a fair proportion. not fit enough for this distance really, but kind of enjoyed it in a bloody minded way.
T - TCA eve, can't really remember. worked some more blues i think. wrist still sore. 
W -
T - TCA eve, wrist still fucked, may actually have to see someone about it soon. Managed a blue 7B+ ish though.
F - childcare
S - childcare
S - childcare

Weight: 70 all week.

Feel heavy, fucked off about my wrist not just going away on it's own. I've been an hour or 2 short of sleep every night for the last 2 weeks - need to sort this out as I'm pretty sure it's a big drag on both weight loss and healing. Oh and manhandling a 2 year old hurts my wrist so it's not even like I'm resting properly.

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Rest.
T - Outdoor trad @ Craigmore, 2 short routes - meh, cold, didn't do much, elbow sore from cold.
W - Gym, 10/10 arm/rec cycling to warm up, max weights attempts - good - shoulder press 45kg x 3 twice, benchpress 65kg x 3 twice, squat 80kg x 3 twice, can't test anything bicepy due to elbow.
T - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, crimp stamina circuit - good, sore from Wed, inspired by crimpy circuit, pumped etc.
F - Swim 1km - fine, still sore from Wed.
S - Outdoor trad @ Glen Nevis, couple of medium routes and stomping around hillside - okay, did some fun climbs but really not on good climbing form.
S - Nothing - suck.

Weight - unfluctuating unctuousness at 76.5 kg.

So-so week. Plenty of activity but still feel off-form for trad climbing and miles away from the confidence and physical ability I need to do what inspires me. Useful session at TCA which showed some training potential for working my fingers without murdering my elbow too much. Testing my weight shizzle was an interesting experience, not least because I was so fascinated by the numbers that by the time I got halfway through, I'd forgotten what shoulder press I'd done. It might have been 50kg. Little climbing benefit and sore afterwards so will stick to normal gym stuff. Weight still holding steady at 12 stone. Maybe I can reduce it :O!

Next week: More climbing training, more normal gym training, more mileage if I get out.

[nai]

March 4th:

stg - narrowed down to underhand & famous grouse plus a bit of other unfinished business

M - after Sunday's deluge the most likely place I could think of to be dry in the Easterly was Burbage West which meant getting back on Famous Grouse, was after pottering really so wasn't confident but only went and did the move I've been struggling with.  Realised it's still hard above that but maybe it was on, instant psyche.
T- 4rep repeaters + 30 pressups x 6sets
w - forearms absolutely totally and utterly mullered, ouch.
T - might have mentioned once or twice already elsewehere, did Famous Grouse Sitter, first 7C. Pretty Pleased.
F- supposed to be working but was bullied into going to try Brad Pit for an hour before the rain by tomtom who seems to have appointed himself as my mental coach.  It didn't rain so we stayed out too long but I did well enough to go back to it.
s
S - family free so could have gone anywhere - Staffs, Yorks, Wales, Anywhere.  Couldn't decide so went to Outside, bumped into 205Chris and ended up at the closest crags to home, did the brilliant Pepper Mill and a Houndkirk Tor circuit but was put to the sword by Rascal Groove and Made In Sheffield.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Another week of little training because I was busy with other things. But felt strong & confident in the two sessions I did manage to fit in. I suspect it's because I trained fairly hard in the weeks prior to Easter in anticipation of a long weekend in Arco - rain stopped play - and have since (largely involuntarily) rested / backed off for a couple of weeks. This feels like it is probably a patten worth repeating, though hopefully next time without canceling the actual climbing.

M:
T: Wall, Gilching: 11 routes in total, 1*6b+, 3*6b, 2*6a+, 2*6a plus warm-up & cool down
W:
T: yoga, shoulder mobility, core
F: yoga, shoulder mobility, core
S: yoga, shoulder mobility, core
S: Wall, Thalkirchen, bouldering. 15 mins ARC warm-up, 40 minutes crimpy power problems, 40 minutes 9 laps on PE circuits. Bike to & from 16km.

[Nibile]

mixed week, ups and downs. overally tired.
MON 30 system. strong. static lock offs 6 mov x 3 sets. footless boulder +6 kg, 2 moves x 2 sets (for each arm). one set no weight. system boulder +6 kg, 4 moves x 2 sets (for each arm). one set no weight. vol 6/7. int 8. 
TUE 1 very tired. bouldering. set two problems, tried moves in isolation.
WED 2 beast. one arm deadhangs. average. 8" RH on the 35° with 14 kg.
THU 3 bouldering. strong on rock. lots of volume on single moves. booo for lanky moves.
FRI 4 active rest. easy campusing, a couple of circuits.
SAT 5 rest and alcohol.
SUN 6 tired. did a couple of routes in the gym at around 7a/7c. snapped my left wrist dammit. time to rest.

wanted to take some rest after doing good on rock, now that I injured my wirst I have an - undesired - reason. 

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread TomTom and well done on Famous Grouse Nai  Sorry to hear about wrist problems Duma and Nibs 

11.8-9

M.
T. Longbridge with Probes  did some easier ups and tried a harder one with a desperate undercut move then a few goes on Bend of the Rainbow getting as far as falling off drop down move. Eve Wave with Poppy. Few goes on yellow/black on extreme right
W.Eve. Shed. Some good goes on Oak sections and then some 20:10 goes.
T. PM Weights session
F. PM Sports massage. Exceptionally painful - thumb in armpit whilst arm rotated was especially memorable
S. AM Tor. Few goes on Wild In Me. Crux holds a bit wet unfortunately
S. Stopped off at Llandulas on way to LPT and did some ace easier routes at the back of the cave then at LPT flailed on Bad Bad Boy - best go got as far as starting the traverse. Met wsmith  Enjoyed the commute.

[nai]

T. Longbridge  tried a harder one with a desperate undercut move

On the right hand end, near BOTR? Push To Prolapse?

[shark]

T. Longbridge  tried a harder one with a desperate undercut move

On the right hand end, near BOTR? Push To Prolapse?

Sorry. No idea. It went up using a couple of small crimps then undercut with left hand then step up to make a long reach for the top. Probes made it (and everything else) look piss

[abarro81]

Enjoyed the commute.

Oh dear. I'm not going to enjoy getting a lift to Malham with you am I! I take it the new car is speedy then?

[nai]

T. Longbridge  tried a harder one with a desperate undercut move

On the right hand end, near BOTR? Push To Prolapse?

Sorry. No idea. It went up using a couple of small crimps then undercut with left hand then step up to make a long reach for the top. Probes made it (and everything else) look piss

Sounds like Push to Prolapse, 6C+, ok when you've done it a few times, takes a really committing slap out the undercut that doesn't feel likely.  Glad you enjoyed your visit, it's a great place.

[shark]

Enjoyed the commute.

Oh dear. I'm not going to enjoy getting a lift to Malham with you am I! I take it the new car is speedy then?

As soon as the Oak is dry I'm up for it. Till then, fuggedaboutit.

[Doylo]

S. Stopped off at Llandulas on way to LPT and did some ace easier routes at the back of the cave

tufa blobs!

[wsmith]

Week 17 of plan.

M. Warwick. Redpoints on routes. Aerocap - 4x4 on routes.
T. Short campus board session for recruitment - 4 x 1,3,5,7. Attempts at 1,4,6.
Ancap - 10 x 25 move circuit. Rests still the same. Average.
FB HYP session - 4 x 10 by 10s. Started with +5kg but soon realised I was too tired for extra weight.
W.
T. FB HYP session - 4 x 10 by 10s. Managed all 4 sets without having to use larger holds near end of sets. Will add weight if I feel the same next time.
Aerocap - 3 x 20,10s. 1 x 10 min continuity.
F.
S. Cave. Spent some time on RA. Decided I basically need stronger fingers for this. Did Werrys Woof left and worked Tomorrow People but no time for a RP. LPT. Managed BBB 1st RP.
S. LPT. 3 or 4 redpoints on Mussel Beach. Falling around the flake over lip.

Pretty good week. Good to get out.

[duncan]

STGs: Rehab. wrist and ankle. Get fit for Swiss LHF trip in July.
MTG: E5 by end 2012.

M - Fingerboarding 'Repeaters' [foot on] - cut short due to wrist soreness.
T - Conferencing. Craigmore with UKB's Englishman-in-Glasgow.  Felt a bit sketchy as first time placing gear for 6 months.  Led the classic Layback Crack (E1 5c) in reasonable style. 
W - Conferencing. Dunby!  Great session, lots of easy stuff.  Really liked the place: excellent climbing, friendly locals and I liked the urban ambience and contrastingly beautiful views of sunset over the Clyde. 
T - Conferencing. 20min run.
F - Fingerboarding 'Repeaters' [foot on]
S - Mile End: routes to F6c. 
S - Chasing offspring.

Good week, climbed outside for a change.  Wrist 75%.  A lot of ground to make up in 2 months but a great goal means regained enthusiasm.

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: 4.5m run, BM: easy repeaters, front 2 max hangs (+15kg on smallest pockets) & front lever progs
T: Bouldering at NCC
W: 4.5m run
T: BM: one arm max hangs, assisted one-armers, theraband & eccentrics
F: rest - drive to Norfolk to see family
S: eating and drinking
S: see Saturday, then travelled home

Reasonable week prior to the weekend. Finger is still not great, trying to work around it and still train/climb but I am not very good at sticking to really easy stuff, at least it isn't getting any worse. My biggest weakness is not getting more actual climbing done, which I am keen to address once this finger improves.

[TobyD]

Goals: Yorkshire triple crown, another 8b, whittle down the trad list

M rest
T awesome walls; 1 hr on 45 deg board plus 10- 15 routes up to 7b+
W awesome walls 1 hr on 45 deg board plus foot on campussing sets, plus deadhangs
T half hour run round Sefton Park
F similar; half hour road run
S Malham - 4 goes up the groove
S Malham - good links on the groove feeling much more comfortable with the moves, and like it'll actually go when i / the crag are in good condition. More skin required - splitting tips limiting progress as much as pump or fatigue

[csl]

Goals for May
Onsight Bloody Sunday in Pembroke this weekend - Done, first route in Pembroke!
Onsight 7a at Malham
Climb Space Race
Under 18.50 5km

Mon- Leeds Wall - some laps. 2x4s and a few x2s. Then bouldered, flashed a couple of V6's
Tue- Running
Wed- Trollers Gill - Did Angel Delight first go of the day, had a quick look at crux when lowering off the warm up and have been on before. A couple of red points on Haslam, should go soon. Got the top crux pretty dialled. Then a lap on Barguest direct and Jim Grin. 
Thur- Belaying/a couple of goes on toprope on an esoteric E6.
Fri- Nothing
Sat- Pembroke - onsighted Bloody Sunday, 2nd E4. Seconded some other routes up to E5.
Sun- Pembroke - onsighted Star Wars, buzzing! Then did some pretty awesome belaying/prussiking when my partner onsighted an E7, did an E2 at Govans at the end of the day as well.
Mon- Pembroke - Was feeling pretty dead so choose to do Manzoku instead of Pleasure Dome, then seconded Mysteries and Suspense.


Glad to have got another couple of E4 onsights, Pembroke is amazing! So psyched to go back for lots of routes!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Peak sport routes up to 7c+... Brown 7c on the circuit board.

M: AnCap session @ The Works - Brown 7c x a shitload.. Just tried to do the thing with as little rest as possible (within reason as I was also trying to make some progress - so aprox 3-7 mins). Managed 1 additional move which was nice but progress is painfully slow. Kinda think if I want to actually do it with my current level of strength/fitness I need to aproach it with a RP mentality and rest up to 45 mins between attempts but it's unlikely I can bring myself to do this as I think I'd rather boil my head!!
T: Fingerboard and Weights session - Repeaters, max hangs, curls, flys and complex stuff.
W: Tigers Todger fell race - 6 miles @ 7.5 min mile pace. Bit too much road running for my liking but glad to do it as it was my first race for a couple of years and a really nice vibe..
T: Board session - Hard moves followed by AeroCap - Bit shocked as managed a problem I'd never been able to do before, still weak as piss so must have blindsided it (ticked it while it wasn't looking ) but nice to see some progress.
F: Drive t'Lakes - Awesome Cottage in Mosedale at the bottom of Carrock Fell.
S: AM - Run up Carrock fell (6:30am to be precise) along to the Cumbrian Way and back down to Mosedale (aprox 7 miles, 1450ft of ascent) - Clear blue skies, frost on the ground and not another soul on the fell, probably the best run of my life! (apart from when I fell in a bog up to my thigh). PM - Bouldering @ Carrock Fell - Kids in tow so didn't do as much as I'd hoped but did tick Rouse's Wall (V5) and a few other bits.
S: Me and my mate drag our 4.5 and 5 year olds up Bowscale Fell, along to Bannerdale Crags and back to Mungrisdale in a snowstorm - 2 Wainwright's ticked, around 9 miles and probably 1700 ft of ascent. Seriously impressed with the little buggers!

Great week - Not so much training as doing! The training I did was of a decent quality though. Fantastic family trip to The Lakes with some great mates, superb weather and was great to take my boy up his first mountain, real sense of achievement for him and his little friend. Loads of running again - but the ratio to climbing's on the right side this week so I'm happy with that - good to do a race again. Do need to get stronger though as really had to work on problems that I'm sure should have felt easier than they did (and my mate pissed ).

This week - Bowderstone, Burbage Skyline Fell Race, Fingerboard, AnCap, AeroCap, Tor...

:D

[Duma]

M: AnCap session @ The Works - Brown 7c x a shitload.. Just tried to do the thing with as little rest as possible (within reason as I was also trying to make some progress - so aprox 3-7 mins). Managed 1 additional move which was nice but progress is painfully slow. Kinda think if I want to actually do it with my current level of strength/fitness I need to aproach it with a RP mentality and rest up to 45 mins between attempts

this is what I was doing in the end with the yellow8b at tca - best way round the boredom for me was to have a shortish (~90-120min incl warmup) session bouldering, finishing with reclimbing redpoint crux, 20-30min rest then one good go. resting that long more than once per session in a wall with your mates all trying stuff is way too frustrating. Prob not best training benefit, but just wanted to get up the thing!

S: AM - Run up Carrock fell (6:30am to be precise) along to the Cumbrian Way and back down to Mosedale (aprox 7 miles, 1450ft of ascent) - Clear blue skies, frost on the ground and not another soul on the fell, probably the best run of my life!
This week - Bowderstone, Burbage Skyline Fell Race, Fingerboard, AnCap, AeroCap, Tor...
:D

Jealous.

[cheque]

Pembroke - onsighted Star Wars, buzzing!

Nice one! That's a M/LTG of mine.

M-Rest
T-Sore throat. Rest.
W-Ill. Rest.
T- Stanage trad. Great rock conditions, less than great health conditions. Pleased to still get up a (soft) E1 although the E2 I'd planned didn't happen, partly due to illness, partly due to not being warmed up enough after partner's lead.
F- Rest. Drive to Lakes.
S- Borrowdale trad. First multipitch E1 and other scary business. Went down to Shepherd's Crag for some easy fun at 7PM- realised that being able to do this sort of thing means it's now summer. 
S- Deepdale scramble/ hillwalk AM, Brant Fell bouldering evening.

Could have got more out of this week if I hadn't been ill at the start but still had three great days out. Kept up with super-fit mountain-dwelling mates no problem over the weekend which is an STG ticked.

Typing it up I realise I've immediately slotted into my usual summer routine of just going climbing with no additional training. Will have to look at either pushing harder when I go out or adding training back in in order to continue this year's improvement. 

[csl]

Cheers cheque! Pembroke definitely seems like a good place to 'go for it.' Get some reasonable fitness and give it a go!

[Cretin]

Love reading the Power club posts!

Whats the requirements for joining the power club ? :D I think sharing my training might help me stay motivated, but I'm not half as beastly as some of the grades I'm seeing tossed around in here!!

[shark]

Love reading the Power club posts!

Whats the requirements for joining the power club ? :D I think sharing my training might help me stay motivated, but I'm not half as beastly as some of the grades I'm seeing tossed around in here!!

The only requirement is a vague commitment to post each week however rubbish that week has been. Hopefully you will find it motivating and a useful record to refer back to.