[tomtom]

Hello,
Me and Nai had a pleasant lunchtime losing skin and forearm strength on this fella today.. There seemed to be several ways to have a go...
Once the lip holds are gained, I tried the lank method of feet in back of roof and twist/lock and lunge up to a high slopey crimp (servicable but not great) on the face. I was then all stretched out -but it looked like I needed to wheedle my rf out onto the face and step up etc.. etc..

Nai's method involved getting the second flake/rail with the RH, then reaching around the corner high with the LH for a tenuous sidepull/pinch that felt better when you put a foot out left to pull off it. Then a knee/calf on the face and reach up for the previously mentioned slopey crimp...

Are either/both of these methods the usual numbers or am I/we missing something obvious...

We didnt succeed either way - and my arms now feel like I've been up and down a campus board all day!!
All good fun,
Tom

[nik at work]

Dredging up from memory I think it was obvious flakes over the nose then up with the left to a gaston then high right foot. As this was about 12 years ago though I could well be forgetting any number of moves/holds.

My top tip would be don't be tall

[nai]

couple of guides mention a "cheeky gaston" but I'm fooked if I can see it.  My way that tt describes felt ok, reasonably sure a heel on the lip, a bit of an udge, trust your spotter and forget about the landing, will suffice next time.

[tomtom]

Aye, gaston on what! Cheers for digging into the memory banks Nick.

[nik at work]

Aye, gaston on what!

I definitely remember a gaston. I'm assuming it was with the left, would a right gaston make more sense?? Sorry I'm not being very helpful am I? Hopefully someone else with more current information will be along shortly...

[nai]

Aye, gaston on what!

Maybe the gaston is off the top of the second flake with RF on the obvious thing on the lip?  That would make it incredibly bunched though and worth not being tall. 

[tomtom]

Aye, gaston on what!

Maybe the gaston is off the top of the second flake with RF on the obvious thing on the lip?  That would make it incredibly bunched though and worth not being tall.

Even Frodo would find that bunched up! The only other gaston is miles around the corner!

[Jaspersharpe]

tomtom getting beta off nik.

[tomtom]

Nik's bulked out a bit!

[nai]

The only other gaston is miles around the corner!

Missed that... where?

[tomtom]

other side of the v/crack on which we had the pinch thing (ie miles away)...

[nai]

Ah, so on Hornblower.  Not a lot of use on another problem