Anna's already won it?
To watch someone absolutely crush the first 3 boulders and to get shut down by what boulderers would call a “party trick” is hard to watch. After 3-4 tries, I realized he was probably not going to do the problem. Kilian who was beside me felt the same. He said to me “I don’t want to win like this”… and it’s true. Even though I knew I’d come second instead of third, it wasn’t in the way I wanted.
Quote from: Sean McCollTo watch someone absolutely crush the first 3 boulders and to get shut down by what boulderers would call a party trick is hard to watch. After 3-4 tries, I realized he was probably not going to do the problem. Kilian who was beside me felt the same. He said to me I dont want to win like this and its true. Even though I knew Id come second instead of third, it wasnt in the way I wanted.http://seanmccoll.com/
To watch someone absolutely crush the first 3 boulders and to get shut down by what boulderers would call a party trick is hard to watch. After 3-4 tries, I realized he was probably not going to do the problem. Kilian who was beside me felt the same. He said to me I dont want to win like this and its true. Even though I knew Id come second instead of third, it wasnt in the way I wanted.
Hey thanks for the write up! I was wondering if you could enlighten us to the fact that the announcers said that Jan had been practicing hand jams the day before. Is there any chance he was tipped off to the final problem or perhaps all the problems… Is there any cheating in the competition world? CheersMatt
Hand-jamming, although not found often on boulder problems, is most definitely a style of climbing. It gets the comp away from the 'who can pull hardest on the smallest holds' feel, which for me is a good thing. As Sam pointed out, there did seem to be other ways of doing it, and for those competitors who are more familiar with Percy's style of setting and were able to practice, that just goes with the territory of being a more experienced comp climber.
I think he specifically ment a handjam on a (presumably comp) boulder problem rather than handjams per se.
I was very, very proud of him and have almost forgiven him for abandoning me for 12 days with 2 small children that don't sleep
Quote from: r-man on June 06, 2012, 12:08:26 amQuote from: Sean McCollTo watch someone absolutely crush the first 3 boulders and to get shut down by what boulderers would call a “party trick” is hard to watch. After 3-4 tries, I realized he was probably not going to do the problem. Kilian who was beside me felt the same. He said to me “I don’t want to win like this”… and it’s true. Even though I knew I’d come second instead of third, it wasn’t in the way I wanted.http://seanmccoll.com/Just seen this in the comment section ..Quote from: someone called mattHey thanks for the write up! I was wondering if you could enlighten us to the fact that the announcers said that Jan had been practicing hand jams the day before. Is there any chance he was tipped off to the final problem or perhaps all the problems… Is there any cheating in the competition world? CheersMattSo is percy open to bribes?
Quote from: Sean McCollTo watch someone absolutely crush the first 3 boulders and to get shut down by what boulderers would call a “party trick” is hard to watch. After 3-4 tries, I realized he was probably not going to do the problem. Kilian who was beside me felt the same. He said to me “I don’t want to win like this”… and it’s true. Even though I knew I’d come second instead of third, it wasn’t in the way I wanted.http://seanmccoll.com/