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Reach Climbing Coach (Read 65577 times)

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Programa de Entrenamiento de partida pronto ...
2 July 2013, 11:44 am

El programa se centrará en un pico de periodización para un proyecto de escalada deportiva de otoño. El plan será el de ejecutar a 3 cuadras de capacitación 6 semanas separadas en torno a la fuerza máxima para encendido para resistencia a la potencia.





Si usted está interesado en formar parte del equipo póngase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com antes de mediados de julio para permitir a diseñar su programa en línea interactivo. Cada bloque de 6 semanas tiene un precio de 75 euros y 01:01 sesiones de entrenamiento en el Centro de Escalada Beacon en el norte de Gales también se encuentran disponibles en 50 euros por sesión de entrenamiento de 90 minutos. El enfoque de la 1:01 será guiar a través de los procesos de formación y motivar al máximo la sesión.



Si tu esalando entre 6a hasta 7c y está buscando a trabajar para una notable mejora después email Mark McGowan empezar.



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Programa de Entrenamiento de partida pronto
2 July 2013, 11:44 am

El programa se centrará en un pico de periodización para un proyecto de escalada deportiva de otoño. El plan será el de ejecutar a 3 cuadras de capacitación 6 semanas separadas en torno a la fuerza máxima para encendido para resistencia a la potencia.





Si usted está interesado en formar parte del equipo póngase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com antes de mediados de julio para permitir a diseñar su programa en línea interactivo. Cada bloque de 6 semanas tiene un precio de 75 euros y 01:01 sesiones de entrenamiento en el Centro de Escalada Beacon en el norte de Gales también se encuentran disponibles en 50 euros por sesión de entrenamiento de 90 minutos. El enfoque de la 1:01 será guiar a través de los procesos de formación y motivar al máximo la sesión.



Si tu esalando entre 6a hasta 7c y está buscando a trabajar para una notable mejora después email Mark McGowan empezar.



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#77 Venga Animal
July 27, 2013, 01:00:36 am
Venga Animal
26 July 2013, 7:06 pm



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#79 Route Setting in the UK
August 31, 2013, 01:01:20 am
Route Setting in the UK
30 August 2013, 8:38 pm



[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The New Indy Wall in North Wales[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Mark McGowan is available for route setting in UK

Route setting Experience:
  • Ratho International Climbing Centre for Bouldering competitions and Scottish Youth Series
  • Inverness Climbing Centre for Scottish Youth Series
  • The Beacon Climbing Centre for lead routes and Welsh Youth Series
  • The Indy Climbing Wall for lead routes

Rate is £12 per hour plus agreed travel costsBased in North WalesContact markmcgowan01@gmail.com

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New Indy Climbing Wall now open today... Where Barcelona meets North Wales!
31 August 2013, 10:22 am

From this...



To this...





The guys and girls at the Indy have managed a great turnaround with their transformation of their climbing centre on Anglesey in North Wales with a new and very steep Power Endurance lead wall that reminded me of a training facility just outside Barcelona that I visited (a very contemporary design!)

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The new Power Endurance Wall[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Rob setting on the new PE wall[/td][/tr]
[/table]

It was great to be involved in both the wall manufacturing (supplied from Beacon Climbing Walls) and finally route setting with Team Indy.







[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Emma setting the Circuits Board[/td][/tr]
[/table] The Indy is open right now and I believe a party will ensue... As I look out my window from the valley towards Holyhead I can see it's cloudy outside today, so get down there and enjoy!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A Stella Job![/td][/tr]
[/table]



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Recruiting  for ReAch Online Dual Factor Program beginning October
21 September 2013, 6:56 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan on FA on Gozo Island[/td][/tr]
[/table]We are recruiting 5 new clients for our October Team for our 6 week Online Dual Factor Program (English or Spanish speaking). Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to arrange for details. the cost of the program is £100 or 100euros payable via paypal

If you climb between 6a and 7c outdoors and looking to train harder for better results in your sport climbing the get in touch.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Youth Coaching in Siurana, Spain[/td][/tr]
[/table]

Estamos reclutando 5 nuevos clientes para nuestro Equipo de octubre para nuestro programa de Factor dual de en línea 6 semanas (de habla Inglés o español). Por favor, póngase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com para concertar obtener más información. El costo del programa es de £ 100 o € 100 por pagar a través de PayPal

Si escalando al aire libre entre 6a y 7c y buscan entrenar más duro para obtener mejores resultados en tu deporte de escalada y luego ponerse en contacto.

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#82 Jo Lucas ... 6c to 7c
October 03, 2013, 07:00:20 pm
Jo Lucas ... 6c to 7c
3 October 2013, 4:31 pm



[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo sending Silk Teddies (7c)[/td][/tr]
[/table]

I began coaching Jo in August 2011 at Ratho in Edinburgh, then a board session, then onto the full program for two long seasons. We have climbed and trained together in the UK, Spain and the French Pyrenees and it was great to here of her recent news of red pointing two 7c's within a few weeks of each other. Although her previous career was modelling in Tokyo, her ability to train daily and change her body for climbing has been mind blowing.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo working an 8a in French Pyrenees[/td][/tr]
[/table]I have never met anyone with such a positive outlook on her life and Jo has always inspired me to try and get the best from my life. Well done Jo, well deserved after 2 years HARD training. And well done to your 'Spaniard' for putting up with it!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Alex [/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo and Amanda at Dunkeld, Scotland[/td][/tr]
[/table]

... 8a next year? No PRESSURE!...

To join up with ReAch Online Dual Factor Program then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for information. English and Spanish Programs available...

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Training from 6a to 8a in 180 days: workshop
6 October 2013, 2:14 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Working Reinne De Sabart (8b), Ariege, France[/td][/tr]
[/table]Mark McGowan will be available for coaching workshops in Scotland, England and sunny Wales focusing on the training process and psychological aspects of getting from 6a to 8a in 180 days... Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for further information.

6a to 8a in 180 days Workshop"I've had the pleasure of meeting some coaches in the last few months. Thanks to their interest on trying our training methods and fingerboards, we have started to share information and cooperate in a way that undoubtedly will make all of us progress both as climbers and trainers:

-Carlos Cabrera (Sweden): Coach of Geir Söderin, Matilda Söderlund, Daniel Andersson, Robert Rundin (Sweden National

Climbing Team) and Said Belhaj.

-David Mason (Sheffield, UK): Boulderer (8B Fb) and Assistant British Team Coach.

-Juan Martín Miranda , "Marvin" (Argentina): Personal Climbing Coach and Argentine Team Coach.

-Mark McGowan (Glasgow, UK): Climber, currently working as Personal Climbing Coach at Barcelona, Spain.

Thank everyone, It's a great honour to share experiences with you!” (Eva Lopez)"






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#84 Exceptionally empty Headed!
October 06, 2013, 07:00:19 pm
Exceptionally empty Headed!
6 October 2013, 5:17 pm





As someone who took a dose of psychotherapy in the Pyrenees to overcome a less than ordinary and apparently traumatic youth, I am of the belief that the mental aspect of climbing as close to your true personal limit is more important than focusing too much on the minutiae of the training or the apparent tangible goal.

Finding inspiration in climbing for me, has always been about finding the truth in what I am doing and why. The motivation is driven by that single belief that something exceptional can happen and working out what part one needs to play to be part of it. Being open to others and taking inspiration from them to keep you going or closing a little and training alone without interruption from others, can work simultaneously and so I suppose for me, knowing when to do what feels right is the key.

Training obviously needs structure, but the motivation to train hard for sustained periods comes from the mind. Learning more about the interruptions from the mind explained more to me about my erratic performance on rock. Learning to approach climbing with as much focus on being relaxed and as little about performance whilst concise with action in the moment on the climb, is something I have been trying to embed in my psyche for over a year now... A kind of empty headed approach with just one thought of 'UP'!

Recent events have made me look at where climbing fits in to my life and where it shifts around in my personal circumstances. A low self esteem has played a huge part in motivating me to try harder but also been the main inhibitor. But perhaps climbing is less about competing with myself and more about enjoying the minutiae of each move in the moment and let the rest just take care of itself.

I think that coaching and transferring a 'real' motivation to others is directly linked with finding honesty in the situation and dealing with it openly to build trust for tougher times, as they do when trying to do something exceptional. Believing that something exceptional can happen is perhaps the difference that hold things together when the apparent blockages seem un-achievable otherwise, the apparently un-achievable is just allowed  to sadly become unbelievable...

 Exception: "An action that is not part of ordinary operations or standards."



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ReAch Training and Online Documents - 6 Month Membership
18 October 2013, 7:26 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Malcolm Simth on the crux of Blood Diamond (8c+), Anvil[/td][/tr]
[/table]

We have been developing a range of climbing specific articles based on personal coaching experience, client response and other sources since the formation of ReAch Climbing Coach since 2010 and are now offering a 6 month membership to ReAch Training & Research Online Documents for £25.00.

Some examples are:
  • Training Theory: Strength > Power
  • Maximal Finger Strength Training
  • Power Endurance (Anaerobic)
  • Perdiodizing, Fatigue and Tapering
  • Over Reaching Versus Over-Training
Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to arrange access to our online training documents.



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#86 Dr Bott...
November 02, 2013, 06:00:18 pm
Dr Bott...
2 November 2013, 5:52 pm



I've been lucky enough to be coaching and training with the Doc. I don't coach many people these days on a 1 to 1 but I have always made friends with those I do. The Doc is inspirational in her pursuit to get rock climbing fit for Mexico at end of the year. A Phd and all round cool dude and new friend, it has been great working with the Doc and a big thank you from me for helping me with my own research and Phd application. Fingers crossed Doc!





[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The Doc and the silver surfing landlady![/td][/tr]
[/table]



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Llanberis Accommodation for Climbers, Surfers and other humans...
12 November 2013, 10:31 am





 If your down Llanberis way looking for a good B&B then go visit Nitas straight across from Pete's Eats. Click photo below for link to B&B... or HERE!





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Recruiting for December Team for ReAch Dual Factor Online Program...
12 November 2013, 3:10 pm



[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]'Chillin the fook out'  or freezing!

 The top pitch of Strand E2 5b, Gogarth.[/td][/tr]
[/table]If you are thinking about chilling out for Christmas then enjoy.

 If your looking to get fit for a January rock trip or longer term plan for spring trad, then the beginning of December is sensible time to act by joining our December Team...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Siurana, Espana[/td][/tr]
[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Right Wall, E5 6a, The Cromlech, North Wales UK[/td][/tr]
[/table]

We are offering a 6 week Online  Dual Factor Program for £100 starting December or a 3 month Program starting January for a spring peak for £200. Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com  for details.



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#89 Training Strategies at ReAch...
November 15, 2013, 06:00:15 pm
Training Strategies at ReAch...
15 November 2013, 3:04 pm





The ReAch Dual Factor Training Programme works along the principle of developing your power first and the maintaining of it second. So instead of performing a high volume of training at a low intensity you perform a low volume of training at a high intensity.This means a much more productive return from your training because you can't perform high intensity exercise as often as low intensity exercise. This will free up valuable days of your week.



Our innovative programme encourages you to cut out large volumes of aerobic training (except to upload towards a 'fatigue peak'). Instead you head straight into the high intensity endurance based workouts after maximal strength and power have been achieved. Its time efficient and mimics the energy requirements of our sport, allowing you to follow a more focused and rewarding programme

.Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for your own online programme.

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Online Data Bank Update: High-intensity interval training (HIIT)
24 November 2013, 2:17 pm

Members Link:

High-intensity interval training (HIIT)

 

For 6 month membership for £25 contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com

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#91 A campus strategy for power...
December 11, 2013, 12:00:20 am
A campus strategy for power...
10 December 2013, 7:55 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Campus rungs[/td][/tr]
[/table]I have began again, campus board for power and blob campusing to improve grip strength. The blobs seem to increase contact finger strength from what I can feel... like power pinching I suppose.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Blobs and rungs from Spain[/td][/tr]
[/table]None of this is worth a jot unless you go and do it, or get yourself conditioned to begin it. So It got me thinking that I should do a campus training strategy for those that have just looked but never dared!

I dare you!

contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com  if you would like a programme...





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#92 Detraining...
December 21, 2013, 12:00:35 am
Detraining...
20 December 2013, 8:17 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Detraining with mi amiga during elbow rehab in 2012 in Spain[/td][/tr]
[/table] It has been nice returning to the campus board after nearly a year off any intensive training since the Pyrenees and I was intrigued as to how long it would take to shift the sessions towards a level of intensity that felt close to previous levels. Completing campus session 4 already feels like it may only need a couple more sessions to get to last years level. It's weird how the body remembers, even after a longish break. The key now, is not to get too greedy on the board and mix it up with route climbing to allow enough recovery as the campus board is deep man! Profundo hombre!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]

[/td][/tr]
[/table]Some interesting research below for those that have been on a break...

With complete cessation of exercise training, a significant reduction in V ?O2max and a decrease in plasma volume occur within 2 weeks; all prior functional gains are dissipated within 2 to 8 months, even if routine low- to moderate-intensity physical activity has taken the place of training (Shephard 1994).

Muscular strength and power are reduced at a much slower rate than V?O2max, particularly during the first few months after an athlete discontinues resistance training (Fleck and Kraemer 1987).

In fact, no decrement in either strength or power may occur for the first 4 to 6 weeks after training ends (Neufer et al.1987).

After 12 months, almost half of the strength gained might still be retained if the athlete remains moderately active (Wilmore and Costill 1994).



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#93 Ben Moon's Evolution...
December 21, 2013, 06:00:19 pm
Ben Moon's Evolution...
21 December 2013, 1:41 pm



Ben MoonBen Moon..."Those of you who follow my Twitter/Facebook feed might be wondering how the Evolution story ended.  Unfortunately there was no happy ending but the story isn’t over yet and all being well, a new chapter will begin again in the spring.I’ve not climbed now for about 3 weeks but up until that point all my climbing days over the previous 6 weeks were spent on Evolution. That’s about 2 days a week with no training days in between. It’s amazing how quickly you can rack up the days when fully committed and Evolution in terms of days invested is now probably number 2 on my all time list behind a certain route at Kilnsey. Hopefully the outcome will be different this time around!After getting bogged down on Evolution’s second crux for several days but still doing big links I finally got the breakthrough I had hoped for and during 1 session red-pointed all the way through to the last move 3 times. Unfortunately the last hold was seeping and I got spat of while setting up for the last big move. Although frustrating I was really very happy because I was sure I could do the route, maybe even this autumn. Unfortunately, as is often the case in sport-climbing this wasn’t to be and 2 days later I popped my left knee on the crucial heel and toe lock on the lower crux. It made a sickening sound as the ligaments tore and my body suddenly felt very vulnerable. I knew immediately that was it for the year.It’s so strange being back into redpointing after so many years away. It’s so much more high pressure than bouldering, basically because you invest so much more time and energy, both mental and physical. I guess that’s why I gave it up in the first place. The flip side of this is that the rewards are huge if you do succeed. One of the most inspiring bits of news this year was Paul Reeves eventual success on Cry Freedom after many days effort over many years at the age of 51. When I bumped into him at Ravens Tor several months after his successful red-point and asked him how it felt to finally clip the belay he told me he was still basking in the glow of his success. That feeling is a big part of what’s driving me on.I know it’s not for everyone this single-minded focus but I do love to be working towards a goal in my life and I am sure Paul Reeve feels the same. Since getting back into sport climbing I have really enjoyed the mental and physical challenge of working and redpointing a hard route.  It’s a rollercoaster of a ride but you’ve just got to roll with the punches, embrace the failures, hang in there and hopefully you will get the outcome you desire. I don’t say that flippantly because I know how hard it is to do that. Another major factor driving me on is my age and not knowing how many more years of pulling on small crimps my body can take. Hopefully many more but I am not taking anything for granted.I hope you all had a good 2013 and I wish you good health and happiness for 2014."- See more at: http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/moon-blog/evolution/#sthash.wemOysj3.QIyorlrl.dpuf

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Recruiting for Feb Team for ReAch Dual Factor Online Programme..
10 January 2014, 12:20 am



 We are taking bookings for our Dual Factor Online Programme for February start. Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to join the Feb Team. It will involve a 6 week intense online training programme designed around your own goal. The cost is £100 (UK) or 100 euros. Available in English or Spanish.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td](Photo: Jon Stoelker)[/td][/tr]
[/table]



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February with a talk from top female climber Emma Twyford.
13 January 2014, 12:31 pm


  • The Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team's winter lecture series continues into February with a talk from top female climber Emma Twyford.

    With an ascent of Rare Lichen E9 6c in summer 2013 and previous ascents including a redpoint of Predator F8b at Malham and a flash ascent of Statement of Youth F8a at Lower Pen Trwyn, Emma is one of the most accomplished female climbers currently operating in the UK.

    Emma was born in Exeter in 1986, but grew up in the Lake District where she started climbing at a young age with her Dad. During the lecture, Emma will talk about her climbing through the years from growing up in the Lake District, competing in youth competitions, living in Sheffield and finally moving to North Wales where she currently resides.

    Venue: Beacon Climbing Centre

    Address: Cibyn Estate, Caernarfon, LL55 2BD

    Date: Friday 28th January 2014

    Time: 7:30pm (bar open all evening)

    Tickets: £8 donation online (available shortly through the Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team website).

    (or £10 suggested donation on the door - cash only)
Beacon Climbing CentreCibyn Industrial Estate, LL55 2BD CaernarfonView map · Get directions

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1 to 1 coaching at The Beacon Climbing Centre (North Wales, UK)
20 January 2014, 5:39 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Coaching in Montserrat[/td][/tr]
[/table]Mark McGowan will be available for 1 to 1 coaching during February at The Beacon Climbing Centre.

The sessions will specialize in sport climbing techniques and for improving your red point between F6a to F7a and supporting strategies that facilitate an increase in performance. The sessions will last around 2 hours and cost £50 per session.

Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to book sessions for February.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Coaching in Siurana

[/td][/tr]
[/table]



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1 to 1 Coaching Sessions at The Indy Climbing Wall (North Wales, UK)
25 January 2014, 10:25 pm



We are available for 1 to 1 training sessions to help lift your grade (working around the F7a to F8a grade range) using our training methods based around our online programme; Strength > Power> Power Endurance...





Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to arrange sessions.



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#98 Over trained or under trained?
January 29, 2014, 06:00:13 pm
Over trained or under trained?
29 January 2014, 5:03 pm

Dual Factory Theory (Overtraining) or  Single Factor Theory (Supercompensation)...or Both for climbing?

My experience has been to use both when training for a specific medium term goal such as 6 to 8. The over training tactic was used in the early preparatory stages of my program aimed at endurance and developing the body, ready for more intense specifics where as the Single Factor theory was used for specific conditioning of strength & power by utilizing Supercompensation in recovery to maximise quality of absolute strength sessions:



What most of us call overtraining is really over-reaching. For most of us, "over-reaching" is what we're really referring to when we say overtraining. Over-reaching-is pushing yourself into a mild state of fatigue with your training. Regression in performance sometimes does occur during an over-reaching period, yet performance rebounds back very quickly, usually above and beyond it's previous level, with a short period of rest or lowered volume (within days). It can be good or bad depending on how you use it.
Overtraining occurs when you chronically over-reach for months or years on end. This leads to performance regression that can take months to recover from. Most athletes don't ever reach a true overtrained state. Another important term is Under reaching.
Under-reaching occurs when you intentionally "take it easy". This is like taking your foot off the gas in your training intentionally. It also can be good or bad depending on how you do it.
It has been my experience that, the reason many people train hard and consistently and don't make the gains they feel they should, is because they spend too much time over-reaching and not enough time under-reaching. This doesn't apply unless you train both hard and consistent. Allot of people don't train hard or consistently and look to answers within the minutia of their or (more commonly) other's program's and they may simply find that a more consistent and focused approach to their own training would deliver far better gains.Over-reaching by design can be a very good thing.
Recovery and Supercompensation:
Recovery can be defined as - regaining what was lost - however, for the climber this is not enough as it returns us only to where we started. Adaptation can be defined as the process of long-term adjustment to a specific stimulus. This process of adaptation can include adjustment in a number of factors such as the climber's physiology, psychology and mechanics. These alterations can ultimately lead to improved performance - which is a more satisfying goal.
We train to get fitness and strength. We want to climb longer harder routes etc. In order to get fit we must stimulate some fatigue so that our body adapts. We must push ourselves beyond our limits some of the time - which is fatigue.
There must be an optimal blend of both fatiguing oneself or over reaching (in order to improve) and resting oneself or under reaching, so that you can see the gains from the over reaching you've done. Under reach too much and you won't get the results you want because you haven't forced your body to adapt; over reach too much and you won't get results because the body is knackered.We have to determine how to intelligently over reach at the beginning of a training cycle, under reach at the end of a cycle, in order to boost the overall results of each training cycle.
Dual factor theory:
The Dual factor theory represent the relationship between fatigue and fitness. One factor is fitness the other factor is fatigue.A stress adaptation model that bases a training plan around the long term relationships between stress and fatigue. When you train you accumulate both fatigue and fitness. However, what many may not realize is that the fatigue that accumulates over the course of a training cyle itself "masks" the fitness gains that you make. However it has been acknowledged, that fitness persists about 3 x longer then fatigue. This means that when all traces of fatigue are gone from a bout of exercise or a cycle of training, the fitness gained will persist for 3 x as long as the fatigue. That's why most people make gains when they take a few days off from time to time.
The Single factor theory:
Is the basic stress adaptation model that is more common, and the model used to explain high intensity training. With this theory you look at physical ability as one short term factor. You load, recover, load, recover - always recovering fully before loading again.
The problem with this approach is you are left with the problem of timing sessions to correspond to the supercompensation wave. Anything sooner or later will lead to a bad session. Another problem is there is only so much systemic stress that can be thrown on the body in one session. If you prolong the length of the stress (loading and fatigue) period by days or weeks, instead of a single workout, you increase the overall stress. Therefore, providing you do allow recovery to take place after prolonged loading, you increase the height of the supercompensation curve as well.
Recovery:
With Supercompensation, one workout represents a period of fatigue. But, in the Dual Factor Theory, up to 6 weeks would represent a period of fatigue. With Supercompensation, a day or two (up to a week) represents a period of rest. But in the Dual Factor Theory, up to four weeks may represent a period rest.


When setting up dual factor periodization for the climber, it is important to remember to plan for periods of fatigue and periods of rest. During the build up to a fatigue period (say, 3 weeks), you slowly build up fatigue, and never fully recover. Then you have a period of recovery (another 1-2 weeks) where you train with reduced frequency, volume, or intensity...



Source: Reach Climbing Coach


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