[csl]

Monday - Leeds wall - doing routes, just tried to onsight all the new routes on the main wall with varying success. Need to start having more structured sessions.
Tuesday - Nothing
Wednesday - Cliff - bouldering. did Wall of horrors start - V5 in guide but prob V3, crucifix eliminate traverse thing, soft V6? and flashed the sit start without the break of crucifix. Got febs goal of 2 more V6s on the last day of feb. New goal for end of march - V6 in a session.
Thursday - Nothing
Friday - Leeds wall - bouldering - felt like shit, bad skin and sore elbows so sacked it off after an hour.
Saturday - nothing
Sunday - nothing

[tommytwotone]

Wednesday - Cliff - bouldering. did Wall of horrors start - V5 in guide but prob V3, crucifix eliminate traverse thing, soft V6?

Depends how much you eliminate...this is the Cliff of course! I did it with a toe-hook in the crack and (from what I remember) a high left heel in the scoop left of the mono pocket after that. I thought it felt OK for Font 7a, but aware I could well have been breaking a rule somewhere!
 
Anyways...on that note:
 
STG: Cliff tickage pre Easter 2012
LTG: Font 7b
 
M - Structured training session on campus board and Beastmaker - repeaters, lockoffs, few Frenchies as well.
T - Board session, went well again.
W - New Blue (V2 -V4) circuit as third day on...felt hard!
T - Nowt.
F - Nowt. Out with work, who were paying for the drinks, in the evening.
S - Hangover.
S - Lie-in followed by a bit of a random, lacklustre Depot session. Nice to see Stubbs up in the place!
 
 
 
 
 

[Oldmanmatt]

New goals...
Try and get on a real friggin rock once in a while...

Mon. - Quay, bouldering.
We'd. - Quay again...
Fri. - Quay... Again.
Sat. - Tried to go to Bone hill, wind and general family manking drove us to Dart Rock.

Feeling very weak, since the chest infection 2 weeks back. Still having coughing fits in the mornings. Couldn't even finish a set of 1-3-5-7 on the campus board at Dart rock yesterday.

Planning some repeaters later.

Maybe...

[tomtom]

M: work - hopefully wall on tues eve and window to get out fri
T: work - feel a bit coldy after work so sack off wall to get better for friday
W: work - feel shitter but forecast looking great for friday!
T: work - feel a bit better cold wise...
F: work AM, PM Cliff feel like shite.
S: rest
S: rest

Dang cold, just wont shift. Not debilitating enough to stop me getting on with work, but sapping the life out of my climbing week...

[shark]

Thanks T2T

11.3-4   

M. Day. Good Deadhang/Encore/pullup sess
T. Noon. Good enough fingery endurance session on systems board. Eve. Poppy's birthday party. 
W. Pulled out of progressing house purchase. Eve. Wave. Weighing light but felt tired - lacklustre session. Cold developing.  
T. Eve. Late session in Shed. Not really up for it but Dolly arrived with enough syke for 2. 
F. AM Mother-in-law died.  (Probably for the best).
S. AM Marky8b pulled out of going to tor. Felt too sniffly and weather looked grim so didnt go out. Poppy and Tommy competed in City Championships x country. Tom came 5th and Poppy 26th (only old enough to enter by 4 days)  Sonia lost our Lumix camera  . Had an afternoon nap. Short eve sess on Wave and worked n03 green black spots (7A) for first time and got it 2nd go.  Still cant do red with white tags 6C+ tho 
S. Boys in Pod bouldering comp. Ben came 4th (bested in a climb-off) and Tom 1st in 10-13 age.  Popped into Foundry to see if I could nail Red 6c+ whilst on a roll. No go. Eve, Shed. Did Oak AnPower session. Nearly got through the throw move from the start. 
 
Eventful week.

[fried]

So, last Sunday I tweeked my lower back doing some 'inverted Ys', I'd already tweaked it climbing on Friday. So spend the week just about being able to put my socks on!

Friday - YYFY - pick up my new car.
Saturday - Still can't bend properly but go to Canche aux Merciers, do loads of yellows to see if that's going to help. Do some  oranges, pick off a couple of blues, but after a fall I decide to call it a day. Look at 'Maurice gratton' as is traditional, Still can't get off the ground. Lovely to be outside again

Sunday- Back still tweaked, I'm getting a bit pissed off after a week of it...so, skip any shoulder stuff.

Weight 73.9kg

[Oldmanmatt]

I'm detecting a pattern here...

[Duma]

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) aero every week
- Weight consistently 68ish
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year

M - nowt, grow skin and childcare
T - nowt, grow skin. Drive to peak in eve.
W - Burbage West: failed on a damp nose at the end of my warm up, but more than made up for by WSS - I've been on it before, can't remember if it's once or twice, but certainly >5 yrs ago. First go once I got the top of the flake. Failed a lot on Famous Grouse, then over to Burbage North: The Terrace - again one or two previous sessions, many years ago, but went quick, so pleased. Also prob 54, and Striker LH. Great day.
T - Burbage South with Ben99: Hanging Prow, Violence, Electrical Storm, Desparete. Desparete both the high and low of the day for me - Badly bruised heel dropping off from the break, which is still really painful now (see below), but managed to get my boot back on after about 30 minutes and did it next go. Stunning stunning climb, very glad I didn't drop it with an already throbbing foot though... All these went in a few goes which was good from a performance perspective, but also as I had very little skin to waste.
F - nowt, rest heel
S - see above
S - ditto.
Weight 69 - 70.5 Quite suprised at how quick the weight is going, apart from a bit of running and less beer, I've not put much effort towards it.

[fried]

I'm detecting a pattern here...

O.A.Ps get injured climbing shocker

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

A week spent accumulating Dutiful Husband & Father points, hopefully convertible to climbing trips later in the year.
M-T: wife away on business: single parent
F-S: taking care of daughters of wife's training partner so that she can go ski touring with her husband. Girls in this age range (6 to turn out to be less terrifyingly Other than the relentless pinkness of every single thing they possess might lead one to fear.

M: 
T: yoga
W: Wall, Gilching: group boulder coaching session with Toni Lamprecht.
T:
F: yoga
S: DIY
S: Wall, Thalkirchen: PE boulder circuits. Tedious but hopefully effective.

[nai]

stg - narrowed down to underhand & famous grouse plus a bit of other unfinished business
summer goals - 8a & E4

M - 22 min run, 2nd in ages
t - tactical rest
W - Cliff wi Pattsy, 2x1 hour sessions on Underhand, tweaked sequence towards the end of 2nd session and was getting closer but too tired by then. Reckon it will go next time the planets align.
T - skin very sore so 30 min run
f - FG plans hijacked, had to go shopping for housey stuff.
S&S more housey stuff

Disappointed to only get one climbing session but was absolutely fooked after Wednesday.  Big bonus this week is that phase one of our building work is complete so the kids can sleep in their bedroom again, I had my first full nights sleep for six weeks last night, so looking forward to more. Should be able to get the Beast mounted again this week too, major YYFY.

[Plattsy]

Who the fuck is Pattsy? 

[robertostallioni]

Should be able to get the Beast mounted again this week too, major YYFY.

 

Who the fuck is Pattsy? 

THE BEAST!

[wsmith]

Week 8 of plan

M. Hard bouldering at Northampton followed by ancap sort of thing on the campus board. 1-3-5-5-3-1 with feet moving each move repeated for 3 mins. 5 sets with ~5 min rest between.
T.
W. Antagonistic weights and 25 min cardio in the day. Eve - 1 hour max bouldering in garage and 2 sets of 10 min continuity for aerocap. Supposed to do 4 sets but didnt due to lack psyche mainly. Should just suck it up next time and do it 
T. 10 sets of repeaters.
F. Aerocap in garage. 4 sets of 20/10s. Good.
S. Finally got round to making all the rungs for my campus board which has been rungless since I finished it last year. Made some nice tendon friendly sloper rungs which I cant hang one handed at the moment. Had a 40 min session on it in the eve mainly just playing around seeing what I can and cant do.
S. Tried some routes at warwick then did 4x4. 20 min run.

Pretty good week. Nice to be on a rope today! 4x4s are much nicer than tedious garage aerocap circuits!

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (1 done)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: Surfing in Morocco - finally back to where I should be by the end of the trip.
T: travel home
W: BM: max hangs (great session, ached for days), theraband, f.l progs & 4m run
T: nothing
F: nothing
S: Bouldering at NCC, should have been more patient and headed outside in the pm but did have a good session at the wall
S: Short BM repeaters session, theraband, f.l progs, 4m run

Hoping for some good weather next weekend.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As ever.

M: Rest
T: Fingerboard and weights - First sesion back on beastmaker after finger injury, felt ok. Did bolton complex stuff and wrist curls... Beasted!
W: Routes @ The Edge - Warmup, 2x2's (1x6c 1x6c+ 1x7a 1 x 6c+) 2x4's (6b-6c)... Trashed!
T: Tired - Stretching.
F: Chill
S: Bouldering @ The Works - Loads of new Wasps, 6 x 6c(ish) @ 2 mins rest.... Walk int Peak.
S: Nowt.

Not bad.... 1st week of 3, harder this week.

:D

[csl]

@ Tommytwotone - Did it just like the guy in this vid - http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=almscliff__crucifix_traverse#video;n=1

Only really say soft 7a cos i've only climbed a couple and other people suggested it was soft.

[shark]

S. Boys in Pod bouldering comp. Ben came 4th (bested in a climb-off) and Tom 1st in 10-13 age.

to the mini-Sharks

I'll let them know.

Ben managed to slip off an easy problem otherwise he would have avoided the climb off and come 2nd. Tom is unstoppable at the moment. I think he's forgotten how to fall off. Maybe some falling practice is required 

[i_a_coops]

M
T - indoor routes, did most of a set of 4x4s on a 6b route to warm down.
W - indoor bouldering up to V6
T
F - indoor bouldering up to V6 + stamina-y circuits with Jacob, felt very unfit.
S
S - indoor route 4x4s with Jacob. Finally starting to recover a bit on jugs, did a set of 4x(up 6c down 5+ up 6b down 6b w/extra footholds), but was actually improving by the end of the set as I started to climb better. Feel like I finally have enough stamina to start training stamina properly! 

[marky8b]

27/2/12 easy week
chapel session ANC & ARC
10 move problem with 3 mins rest for first 5 reps then down to 2min s rest then added weight on final 4 reps (2kg & 4kg)
12 sets 0f 10moves with failure on 10, 11 but 12th back to 10 with 4 kg's!
ARC 20, 10's x 3 sets 150 moves per set total of 450 moves
circuit session & core 450

29/2/12
Dead hangs/Ant work
Run 15mins
Leg Raise x 4 x 10 on the minute
Dead hangs x 3 x 1min
Shoulder Press & Up row x 4 x 20each

1/3/12
Chapel session ANC & ARC
Run 15 mins
warm up
ANC 10/12 move problem 2min to 1.30 rest with 2kg
failure on 10th 11th & 12th Total moves 110
20, 10's 3 sets of 5 reps 150 per set. Total of 450
Core work 550
Strength circuit x 1 set, 1 min on 1 min off


3/3/12
Due to go outside with The Shark but felt shit 
Did a very light Aerobic session in the afternoon (300 moves)
Sunday started off feeling ok, but by evening felt real shit..
Monday off work  training Tuesday...

[pete b]

I plan on going on a bouldering trip to various places around the UK around Easter and so want to get strong.

M: 30 minute run followed by a 1 hour campus/fingerboard session. One arm hangs with 6kg assistance.
T: Indoor bouldering at K2. Did a V6.
W: 2 hours juggling.
T: 1 hour campus/fingerboard. One arm hangs with 6kg assistance.Repeaters.
F: > 1 hour juggling (11 balls).
S: Nothing.
S: 1 1/4 hour campus/fingerboard. One arm hangs with 6kg assistance. Repeaters.

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; keep up with bouldering standards over winter, move into route training over March.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Gym - 12mins arm cycling/20mins rec cycling/12mins rowing/light weights - fine, not much weights due to going out on Tue
T - Outdoor sport @ Arbroath, just a few easy routes - okay, logistics mean I did little, but felt fine on the rock.
W - Indoor routes @ GCC, middling mileage - fine, hot and sweaty and late but pushed myself fairly well.
T - Rest / tired arms.
F - Gym - 15mins rowing/20mins rec cycling/15mins arm cycling - fine, cycling felt okay, ran out of time for weights.
S - Rest.
S - Outdoor bouldering @ Garheugh, projecting - fine no successes but plenty of moves on steep ground.

Decent but not awesome week. Gym session felt better but curtailed due to circumstances. Starting more of a transition to routes / route training, which is okay but will need some work. Elbows feeling a bit tender so will have to take care with those. Weight and fitness seem to be holding steady rather than degenerating further 

[webbo]

M. Board at Rockcity.Lat/armpit seemed ok no pain.
T. Massage rather sore
W. Very sore.
Th. Rockcity Lat thing pulled again warming up.
F. Nothing.
S. weights. Bike 2hrs 25 mins.
Su.Morning turbo 10 min w/up 8 x 5 min on 1 min off 10 minw/ down. Evening turbo 10 min w/up 15 secs on 15 secs off x3 x5 x7 x9 x11 x15 1 min rest between each set 10 min w/down.

Shoulders feel better after massage which is making me sleep better. Lat problem a bit worrying tho.