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Lunar Direct, Gentleman's Rock
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Lunar Direct, Gentleman's Rock
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tallsop
addict
Posts: 114
Karma: +7/-1
Lunar Direct, Gentleman's Rock
January 09, 2012, 02:56:45 pm
Stuck, not sure which two gash mono pockets to use. Is the cluster of pebbles high and left in?
Cheers,
Tom
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measles23
stalker
Posts: 264
Karma: +45/-1
#1 Re: Lunar Direct, Gentleman's Rock
January 09, 2012, 10:17:12 pm
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13050.0.html
Mike Adams describes it half way down this page.
I interpreted this as LH gaston the left pocket (just takes 2 fingertips), RH takes the right mono (as a crimped mono is less painful!), right heel on break, lurch for sidepull with RH then pop for letterslot with LH - don't remember any pebbles being within reach but then I don't have much reach!
Proviso - I haven't done the problem, but I have done the crux moves like this..
It used to start off a big sidepull which I pulled off, but as I'm sure you've found there are some small undercuts which allow the pockets to be reached without too much drama - good luck!
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tallsop
addict
Posts: 114
Karma: +7/-1
#2 Re: Lunar Direct, Gentleman's Rock
January 11, 2012, 02:12:31 pm
Nice one, cheers for that, so basically its just a HUGE move from where i can get to, wow. Will be keen to try that again when i go back. I got stuck looking for another move/hold in between the pockets and the side pull, by the sounds of it there aint one?
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measles23
stalker
Posts: 264
Karma: +45/-1
#3 Re: Lunar Direct, Gentleman's Rock
January 11, 2012, 07:28:07 pm
Mr Adams doesn't give away 7C for nothing - it's a hard move!
He's also tall, but having said that I did the move and I'm only 5'9" so its not a reach thing; if i remember I really had to focus on pulling down with the right heel, while pushing off with my left foot, and focusing on keeping both feet on so there was some way of generating tension when you hit the side-pull - I've got a crap stitched beta video somewhere if you want me to dig it up?
Intermediates? - stop looking and MTFU!
Hmm unfinished business - now you've reminded me I might get back on it if its in condition..
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tallsop
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Posts: 114
Karma: +7/-1
#4 Re: Lunar Direct, Gentleman's Rock
January 11, 2012, 09:25:43 pm
Youre right about mannin up i guess! Its just so far between those holds i just assumed there must be another move inbetween the pockets and the sidepull! Its huge! Well im 6ft5 so it should suit me fine-ish. Spoke to a mate about this today, he says mike is a big fella - and a beast! Would love to see a clip of your beta if you wouldn't mind diggin it up! Thanks!
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tallsop
addict
Posts: 114
Karma: +7/-1
#5 Re: Lunar Direct, Gentleman's Rock
January 11, 2012, 09:31:05 pm
BTW - conditionswise, it was ok on lunar direct except the jug (on electrofly) was a touch greasy, not soaked, just a tad wet. The only problems being affected by seepage or rain are the ones on the right hand side - the nose etc...
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jowgli
player
Posts: 79
Karma: +1/-0
#6 Re: Lunar Direct, Gentleman's Rock
January 24, 2012, 10:25:01 am
definately keen to see the footage you've got measles if it finds its way onto tinterweb
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