UKBouldering.com

Dirtnap Beta (Read 1715 times)

will_s87

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 46
  • Karma: +2/-0
Dirtnap Beta
December 24, 2011, 12:50:46 am
Hello!
Any beta for dirt nap?

thanks!

Eddies

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1245
  • Karma: +52/-6
#1 Re: Dirtnap Beta
December 24, 2011, 10:41:25 am
Bear down on the lil crimps and trav left then either use barely visable sloper out left or make a big move from the last crimp rail to the horizontal break, and victory.

will_s87

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 46
  • Karma: +2/-0
#2 Re: Dirtnap Beta
December 24, 2011, 03:22:23 pm
Thanks man....

after the the hand hold you match on sleeping with flowers you drop down to the crimps? and fight your way across? any secret footwork?

thanks! it was a cool problem but no cigars

will

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1839
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
#3 Re: Dirtnap Beta
December 24, 2011, 04:15:16 pm
after the the hand hold you match on sleeping with flowers you drop down to the crimps? and fight your way across?

From the second move on SWTF (you should have your RH on the sloper right of the arete and your LH on the decent hold at the base of the left side of the arete) you can come through with your RH to the nice sloper or shuffle around on quite a few variations using the smaller but more positive crimps around it (all within a couple of feet of the lip) to get the good crimp rail out left.

any secret footwork?

How good the footholds are depends how deep you dare placing the heel-toes in the big flake.

will_s87

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 46
  • Karma: +2/-0
#4 Re: Dirtnap Beta
December 24, 2011, 07:50:38 pm
danke!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal