In Yorkshire there's always Climb of the Century on the upper tier at Malham (may go to 8a+ in the new guide - Adam?)
But a 3 hour drive both ways every week isn't a hassle!!! You're bonkers Keith. You know all too well that N Wales conditions/tides ain't a problem when you're local, Kilnsey gets wet and Malham's often too hot. I concede the 8b's here probably don't suit you though. I'd say Predator and get saving up that petrol money
I'd say Youthanasia but it looks like it'll be getting upgraded
Serpent Vein: This could be the one Keith! 45 metres of beautiful dolerite, not at all conditiony (compared to LPT), close to home, one of the best 8b's in the country with a 'V8/9/font 7b+ crux'. What are you waiting for!! This, the brute or Youthanasia will be my choice for my first 8b if it's going to be in N.Wales./quote]I was just thinking the same thing....and it's only 10 mins from your house Keith, winter can be great on the slate eh, especially the friction on the dolerite, oooh....nice still day, rough dolerite, slightly overhanging, doable crux, Caff used to rave about the quality and it's still waiting for a second ascent....it's a no brainer!
Come to think of it Keith's said he's super keen to go back to Ocean of Emotion and Alberta Rose. Speaking of whom .....
Keith, what about Insomnia at Dinbren?
Look at the options for N.Wales -
Quote from: Andy F on December 05, 2011, 08:37:54 pmKeith, what about Insomnia at Dinbren? Hi Andy, Good thinking but consensus seems to be 8a+ on this and, if I'm being honest, I'm not really motivated by a few metres of climbing on the end of another route.
Quote from: ksjs on December 06, 2011, 10:59:12 amQuote from: Andy F on December 05, 2011, 08:37:54 pmKeith, what about Insomnia at Dinbren? Hi Andy, Good thinking but consensus seems to be 8a+ on this and, if I'm being honest, I'm not really motivated by a few metres of climbing on the end of another route.It may well have been down at 8a+, but hold breakage on the route it starts up has pushed it back to 8b. The 'few metres of climbing' look amazing from the ground, with no let-up to the belay.
Corinthian GrooveSUL ExtensionSeagull's DilemmaMelancholyYouthanasiaThe BruteTemple of Gloom
Holger are you still even allowed on this forum As far as I know it is only Rob Mirfin who thinks it might warrant 8a+. Hardly a consensus unless there are quite a few other people I don't know about who also think 8a+.
It may well have been down at 8a+, but hold breakage on the route it starts up has pushed it back to 8b. The 'few metres of climbing' look amazing from the ground, with no let-up to the belay.
Quote from: JohnM on December 07, 2011, 09:20:45 amHolger are you still even allowed on this forum As far as I know it is only Rob Mirfin who thinks it might warrant 8a+. Hardly a consensus unless there are quite a few other people I don't know about who also think 8a+.Maybe I was being a total idiot in taking the UKC logbook votes as anything meaningful but 4 out of 4 people apparently voted 8a+. In reality this could mean anything however, I could get my cat to vote, I could get friends to vote, I could use someone else's account to vote twice etc. Why would you do any of those things, people are strange though?Apologies if I've upset anybody's pride
Didn't a certain Ex Yorks school teacher have his whole class register on UKC to downgrade GA following Insomnia FA'ist RP of said route