[ziggytang]

Hello,

I was just wondering what the right method is for doing Kingdom of Rain at the Sheep Pen? I've been told two different ways. One which is pretty easy for V6 and the other seems pretty tough for V6.

is this the correct way - - 3min 13sec in??

Cheers

[b3n99]

I got my method (me in video above) from another north wales bouldering video by lance finlay i think. Havn't seen another method personally and the one I used felt alright for V6.

What other method were you told about?

[fatneck]

IIRC it's possible to pull into the undercuts from the dry stone wall which makes it much easier than coming in from the start of Dog Shooter. Not slighting him in any way, but I get the impression that Mr Klemmow generally looked for the hardest way of doing things rather than the easiest / most obvious way...

[ziggytang]

I've tried it your way in the video and found it tough for 7a. And I've done it my mates way using the fat slopey sidepull on dog shooter and reaching across into the undercut (I've also seen someone else do it this way) and it feels piss. Need to know which way is right for the extensions into it.

[BenF]

Almost identically to the video... I start KoR from the edges down and right as in the video, get a heel on and reach left with my lefthand to the big undercut straight away.  Then go up via the edge. 

[kc]

I get the impression that Mr Klemmow generally looked for the hardest way of doing things rather than the easiest / most obvious way...

How do you know what method was used? All I remember was walking up to a virgin bit of rock pulling on and climbing to the top, first ascent on-site. I did not record my method or really offer a grade. I suppose that's the problem. As a matter of coincidence b3n99 also has a video clip of a problam at Raven tor credited to myself. I have seen comments posted that it is soft for the grade. Well for a start I did not grade or record the problam. Perhaps the given grade is not so far of the mark when done properly ie finishing at the jugs.

[fatneck]

@KC, I have no idea what your method as the first ascentionist was and as I said, no slight was intended! Kudos to you for finding the place and developing it. I based my opinion on climbing several of your problems and speaking to other people, but obviously, this is not going to give me the true picture. And anyway new/different/more obvious sequences very often arise after a problem has first been climbed and this in no way diminishes the achievements of the first ascentionist, so please don't take my commments as derogatory!

[kc]

Cool

[BenF]

please don't take my commments as derogatory!

Actually KC, I would take them as derogatory.  Underneath his kind, sensitive exterior Fatneck's a right tw*t.  I'll punch him for you next time I see him.  Or better still I'll punch him at his wedding next month, that'll teach him.

[Pantontino]

I get the impression that Mr Klemmow generally looked for the hardest way of doing things rather than the easiest / most obvious way...

How do you know what method was used? All I remember was walking up to a virgin bit of rock pulling on and climbing to the top, first ascent on-site. I did not record my method or really offer a grade. I suppose that's the problem. As a matter of coincidence b3n99 also has a video clip of a problam at Raven tor credited to myself. I have seen comments posted that it is soft for the grade. Well for a start I did not grade or record the problam. Perhaps the given grade is not so far of the mark when done properly ie finishing at the jugs.

Wahey, bun fight!

Your method was the same as in the vid (except maybe straight into the undercut?) - I do recall a snapped hold and an unexpected dismount at some point when you showed it to me - can't remember if that was you, or maybe Gav?


As for the film - a good mix of Welsh classics there, but why no sitting start on the Toe Dragon links?

[b3n99]

Cheers for comments about film, first trip to North Wales and was stunned!

The lack of bum starts was a mixture of lack of knowledge, dampness/holds clagged with chalk and not being able to see a logical sit down alternative. Was a little disappointed when i realised it was a true sitter afterwards but doubt it adds much difficulty and thought the problems were stunning!

[ziggytang]

The first move on toe dragon from a sitter is actually pretty snatchy but it is prone to being pretty damp. Sheep Pen is one of my favourite venues though, and the Pinch is one of my favourite problems there. The walk in is however one of my least favourite walk-ins. But if it was roadside, no doubt it would be ridiculously polished by now.

[philo]

I also love the sheep pens and also flashed this problem with the same method in the video, though i think i might have watched my mate do the final move to the lip crossing over, not sure though, was a long time ago!  Need to get back there