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Whalebak & McNab - Barden (Read 7627 times)

Will Hunt

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Whalebak & McNab - Barden
November 18, 2011, 10:57:50 am
Yesterday was the last day of shooting on Barden Fell and the weather has been reasonable in the past few days  :bounce:

Does anybody have beta for Whalebak or McNab? Does McNab start off boulders or is that a cop out? Any information would be appreciated!

Stubbs

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#1 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
November 18, 2011, 11:11:28 am
BOOM!


SA Chris

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#2 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
November 18, 2011, 11:48:47 am
Is that bloke wearing a woolen beard?

andy_e

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#3 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
November 18, 2011, 12:05:14 pm
Yeah!


SA Chris

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#4 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
November 18, 2011, 12:07:50 pm
Rocking!

GCW

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#5 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
November 18, 2011, 01:00:18 pm
Is it worth a visit with one pad?  Or do landings dictate a couple of pads and a spotter?

andy_e

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#6 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
November 18, 2011, 01:04:40 pm
The landings are mostly flat so if you get the position right you'd be OK with one mat, and maybe also a little mat to step off.

Will Hunt

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#7 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
November 18, 2011, 01:43:34 pm
Nice video, Stubbs, thanks. Just what I was after! Dino-mania looks very tense; I was cringing at Will's disregard for his own skin at the end there!  :bow:
Did he get it?

Stubbs

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#8 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
November 18, 2011, 02:05:44 pm
Did he get it?

No idea, it's his video, you must see him around? I live a little far away now...

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#9 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
November 18, 2011, 02:11:08 pm
Nope, he spent ages ripping off again and again, lost all his skin, and I don't think he's been back on it since. He'll piss it next time for sure.

Will Hunt

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#10 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
July 04, 2015, 11:44:44 pm
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I can confirm that the rumours are true. The chicken head starting foothold on Whaleback has gone leaving very little at all.
Does anybody know whether this has been reclimbed in its new state? I can only assume that this would be very hard now.

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#11 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
September 10, 2015, 02:00:55 pm
Does anybody know whether this has been reclimbed in its new state? I can only assume that this would be very hard now.

Yeah. It's certainly harder now, and sadly less pleasant to climb than before. It also feels much more eliminate without the missing hold; the temptation is to start RH with the arete since there's no obvious hold to pull on with.  Huge shame really.

monkey boy

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#12 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
October 17, 2015, 06:48:55 pm
We went up about a month ago. Whaleback definitely felt harder than 7a+ but not sure about a grade, maybe 7b/+, harder than McNab for sure. I didn't think it was a great problem to be honest, it's a shame I never got to try it in it's original condition as it looked much better.

Paul B

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#13 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
October 17, 2015, 09:53:45 pm
This explains a few things... I agree with SJW, it feels very eliminate. Damn.

monkey boy

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#14 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
October 18, 2015, 08:48:27 am
Yeah it felt massively eliminate but it must have felt that way before as well, you're right next to a massive crack!

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#15 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
October 19, 2015, 09:23:47 am
It always seemed rather overhyped to me mostly because it felt pretty eliminate even with the chicken head. The aretes at Hen Stones are much much better.

andyd

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#16 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
October 19, 2015, 09:34:52 am
It always seemed rather overhyped to me mostly because it felt pretty eliminate even with the chicken head. The aretes at Hen Stones are much much better.
I agree with both of these statements. I've never been convinced about the status of mcnab either...I kind of think that the setting and reputed 7b grade gives it that rose tinted appearance.

Footwork

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#17 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
October 19, 2015, 10:19:53 am
It always seemed rather overhyped to me mostly because it felt pretty eliminate even with the chicken head. The aretes at Hen Stones are much much better.
I agree with both of these statements. I've never been convinced about the status of mcnab either...I kind of think that the setting and reputed 7b grade gives it that rose tinted appearance.

I've never been convinced about the grade of McNab. It's a great problem but no harder than El Poussif in font (which is the closest thing I can relate the movement and difficulty to). The sitter is 7b+

Will Hunt

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#18 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
October 19, 2015, 12:35:18 pm
I think McNab is a fabulous problem. Its a big imposing line with sustained climbing. I never thought of it as being particularly soft at 7B but I can't think of many problems to compare it with. There are lots of 7Bs out there that aren't especially difficult but which people are happy to take 7B for because they have a little technicality about them (step forward Racing Raymond and Trust for instance).

When trying Whaleback in the past, it never felt particularly eliminate as it didn't seem right or obvious to use any other holds than those used on the problem (I'm aware I'm the exception here). It's hardly fair to compare it against the problems at Hen Stones because those problems are probably the best on grit, never mind Barden Fell or even Yorkshire! The rock is the most beautiful gritstone I've seen anywhere.

The grading in Yorkshire is all over the show anyway. This would be a perfect time for the thread you promised us, Ben, "Yorkshire's Biggest Ego Massages". I'm not going to start it because I'll get the usual grief  ;)

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#19 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
October 19, 2015, 12:57:10 pm

I've never been convinced about the grade of McNab. It's a great problem but no harder than El Poussif in font (which is the closest thing I can relate the movement and difficulty to). The sitter is 7b+

Don't compare anything with El Poussif! Classic 7b+ with a typo.

But yeah, Whaleback, really attractive boulder, problem has always seemed a bit eliminate. Doesn't matter though - it's an A lister due to looks and location.

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#20 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
October 19, 2015, 01:33:53 pm

When trying Whaleback in the past, it never felt particularly eliminate as it didn't seem right or obvious to use any other holds than those used on the problem (I'm aware I'm the exception here). It's hardly fair to compare it against the problems at Hen Stones because those problems are probably the best on grit, never mind Barden Fell or even Yorkshire! The rock is the most beautiful gritstone I've seen anywhere.

Personally I wasn't implying WB is/was log, just that it was over-hyped, compared to the Hen Aretes which were traditionally under-hyped. Looking at logged ascents on UKC it looks like attention might have caught up with merit at the Hen Stones now though so maybe my comment is out of date, or perhaps folk just can't get up WB anymore.

Footwork

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#21 Re: Whalebak & McNab - Barden
October 19, 2015, 02:11:04 pm

I've never been convinced about the grade of McNab. It's a great problem but no harder than El Poussif in font (which is the closest thing I can relate the movement and difficulty to). The sitter is 7b+

Don't compare anything with El Poussif! Classic 7b+ with a typo.

It took 3 trips to font to finally stand on top of El Poussif! One of the best :yes:

 

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