This answered my question..
Name: Tyler Landman
DOB: 22/09/1990
Interview By: Ben Moon
BM - How often do you climb?
TL - I climb outdoors 4 times a week and indoors 5. I usually go outside, climb, and then go indoors in the eve.
BM - How often do you train and for how many hours per session?
TL - I train 5 times indoors per week. Sometimes 4 if I am feeling tired. Normally 3 hours for a session.
BM - Where do you train?
TL - I train at my friend's wall. It's Theo Merrin's and Robyn Puro's. It is perfect. 5min walk from my house and perfect wall. Amazing. The best.
BM - What kind of training do you do?
TL - I warm up. Then do a circuit of warm up problems leading up to a harder one at the end. Take a rest. Then try hard boulders that I have done before but are still spice. Then I try hard problems that I have not done and try and make progress on those. If I do them, great. If I don't then I make up an easier version of the crux move and do that a couple times to get the movement. Then go back to the original. If I am working a specific proj outside, I will simulate the move and train on it. I start off with the move on better holds. Then gradually get worse until I have it about even. I try and get the move perfect so I can do it confidently. At the end of the sesh I do campus exercises on the campus board, and then on the wall on different style problems.
BM - Your top training tip or tips?
TL - Don't fall into a habit of only doing the same circuit of problems or routes everytime. Each time you repeat it, it becomes easier for you, hence less training.
If a hold hurts any muscle or finger, don't keep trying it for any reason, just move on, it won't be worth it when your finger is the size of a golf ball.
A top tip is do try and climb on all styles of problems, not just the ones of your favourite style. So make up problems of crimps, one of slopes, one of pinches, one of undercuts. Static and dynamic problems. Problems with tension too. All kinds so that you don't become a 'specific' climber. Using small feet holds is key too because if you train like this you can use small and big feet holds. If you only train on big footholds, you cant use small ones.
I also think it is beneficial to make campus problems on the climbing board. The campus board is good, but it is only one move and only helps in basic power. You fall into the habit of only being able to campus on flat edges. If you campus on the board, you get variety of holds and moves so you are working more of your weakneses and different styles of holds.
I don't think weights are necessary until you are at such a high level that this is the only way to increase strength.
BM - Your best achievement?
TL - My best achievement is Dreamtime in Switzerland in 3 days at age 16 and The Ace in 3 days at age 15. I am not sure but these seem to standout in my history I think.
BM - Your goals for 2007?
TL - There is this amazing project in Rocky Mountain National Park called 'The Green 45'. It is a green wall at 45 degrees on perfect small edges with bad feet. It will for sure be 8c and is a pretty much pefect boulder if heinous crimps are your forte. It is something that I tried last summer and got close too but no success so hopefully this year I will get closer and it will be in the satch.
I would like to try and make the second ascent of my friend, Daniel Woods hard first ascent, Ode to the Modern Man.
I would like to try and do a Monk's Life.
I would like to do 'The Fly' in Rumney.
The Swarm and Mandala sit I would like to do in bishop.
Otherwise I am just training for summer '08 when I will move out to Switzerland. This is where my main syke lies. Years of climbing on the best rock, projects and established boulders all over Europe. I can not wait!
