[ghisino]

as everyone, i usually experience a certain grade gap between my usual "quick sends" and the hadest i can boulder (or redpoint) after many tries spread over several sessions. Nothing weird.

Now, in the short period (weeks-months) i've experienced times where the difference seemed to be narrower than usual (ie i tend to be more consistent and feel more comfortable than usual on easier grades but don't seem to make progress on any "big project") and times where it seemed to be greater (a few amazing isolated sends, compared to my "average" level)

I don't think it's simply a matter of how i manage my attempts over a day, but can't come up with very convincing reasons for the two "anomalies".

Does anyone here have possible explanations, especially training-related ones?

[climbingjoe1984]

It must have been a wizard. No other explanation given the hundreds of variables in a days climbing (which problems, conditions, physical condition, what you ate last night, how quickly you walked to the crag...)

[Rocksteady]

Could this be anything to do with volume/intensity of your climbing?

For me, if I'm climbing more at grades lower in my incredibly modest spectrum, I will perform more consistently.

If I'm not climbing as much but doing quite a bit of strength training or redpointing a specific route I might get a strength/power boost that will translate to achieving a project that is usually beyond me...but my average level can defo drop.

Although, probably it was down to a wizard. 

[ghisino]

that seems reasonable and logical.


unfortunately i never kept a proper training/climbing log, so i can't remember exactly if i was training/climbing with a wizard before or during the mentioned anomalies...