[carlisle slapper]

J L's superb problem at froggatt, certainly one of the best of its grade on the eastern edges IMO.

Has this been repeated at all? Farrar? especially by moyenne doigts people?

Does it start with whatever you can reach?

I got on it yesterday expecting the usual 7c gritstone rigamarole. And after getting my ass handed back to the pad for over an hour i finally figured a sequence out. But didn't do it as i was too shit and it was fully amazing conditions with the Katia wind.

I ended up trying:
Start RH two finger drag with thumb catch, left foot to face on big smear, full head twisting span upto a tiny slopey crimp on the arete high up (in the brushed bit which could be a MASSIVE pinch to some people). R heel into slot below hand, spring RH upto bad undercling/ huge pinch. change right foot to bad footlock in slot and spring for top.

Anyway i'd not argue with hard 7c+ with that beta and all the other methods i tried just lead to dead ends, but could easily have missed something. Certainly seemed a good notch harder than things like Musclin' man at RHS (v similar style) Renegade, My Orange, Slingshot etc all at the same crag.

It's probably just gonna be the usual case of 6' Average Dan getting owned by the big lads but just managing to scrape my way up it. I'll probably try and add a bunched sitter to make up for it and give it 8a for an ego massage in due course. What it is is that i've probably just been on limestone too much this year and my blouse got all snagged on the pebbles...

Also there were a few big branches down about the place yesterday with the wind and the tree on LH end of Todys playground has fallen down, leaving a nice new arete/prow at 7A+ ish from sit.

[Johnny Brown]

Not done it, but...

(in the brushed bit which could be a MASSIVE pinch to some people

6' Average Dan getting owned by the big-HANDED lads

Think Banks might have done it?

[Bonjoy]

Spoke to Jamie about the sequence on this after trying it with cofe and dave. Can’t recall the exact details but think it involved getting the top on the RHS of the arete static with left hand, maybe off pinchy undercut

[cofe]

Spoke to Jamie about the sequence on this after trying it with cofe and dave. Can’t recall the exact details but think it involved getting the top on the RHS of the arete static with left hand, maybe off pinchy undercut

that's how me and dave were doing it.

in full: start LH edge on left face, right hand on low sidepull, rock RF onto smear on arete and flick RH to undercut/pinch. LF up onto nose/break, LH up to sloper/pinch, right foot up to something and go for top. me and dave both hit top in the spring before darkness/bad skin stopped play.

a brilliant problem.

[dave]

word we need to get back on that badboy for sure. Wasn't even great nick when we were on it, still felt about ballpark for 7c, but not a soft one. I remember thinking it would feel better if that high sloper on the arete was fully clean.

hopefully if some trees are down that would give us more to work with to even out the landing and hence require fewer pads.

[Johnny Brown]

Will be doing a tour of Froggage and Curbage with the EMP next week.

They are pretty keen on removing some of the scrub birch which has grown up around the crag in recent years. If anyone can think of any particularly annoying ones, post up.

[carlisle slapper]

Cheers Cofe, will try that on next visit, sounds like a bit more logical use of the holds.

Felling the Birch behind grand doigts would open the block up nicely but it might be a bit big? if people are on the prowl anyway. The only other bit i can think of is down by My Orange, the rest of the edge is relatively exposed/ free of tree infringements. Maybe that tiny shrubby one growing out of Ape Drape would be a prime candidate too.

[cofe]

I can't think of any trees in particular, but opening up some of the areas near some of this newer/more esoteric bouldering might help them stay cleaner, and/or encourage people to get on them. Like near Glass Slipper, Glorious Gritstone Mantelshelf etc etc.

[Bonjoy]

Spoke to Jamie about the sequence on this after trying it with cofe and dave. Can’t recall the exact details but think it involved getting the top on the RHS of the arete static with left hand, maybe off pinchy undercut

that's how me and dave were doing it.

in full: start LH edge on left face, right hand on low sidepull, rock RF onto smear on arete and flick RH to undercut/pinch. LF up onto nose/break, LH up to sloper/pinch, right foot up to something and go for top. me and dave both hit top in the spring before darkness/bad skin stopped play.

a brilliant problem.

No he said he got the TOP static with left hand, i.e. went again with left. I may have misremembered the sequence but he deffo said the move to get the top was static.

[cofe]

with his right hand, you dork. he did say he went static, we were a bit more springy when trying it, mainly cos you couldn't hang around on the scrittley sloper. i spoke to him not long after trying it while he was doing some plumbing shit round our crib. i'm watching you.

[Bonjoy]

Me > 

[cofe]

lick yourself off my shoe

[Johnny Brown]

Must be Chanterelle season, the Boy's gone doolally.

[Bonjoy]

Yer not wrong, and it's not just Chanterelles my friend!

[Johnny Brown]

Amazing puffball that! I had the privilege of munching a bit down raw too.

[SA Chris]

It's as large as a child's head. Amazing. All the ones i've seen up here have puffed already.

[cofe]

Yer not wrong, and it's not just Chanterelles my friend!

you've shaved your beard!

[Dutch]

Was trying this with big cofe today. As much as the previous beta has been so specific we were repeatedly hitting the top again but not quite slow enough. Felt like we needed summat for the right foot other than the little pebble we were standing on. Any ideas?

[Johnny Brown]

Bunch of ascents today, including the sit. Good problem. Full beta as per Cofe:

start LH diagonal slopey sidepull bump on left face, right hand on low sidepull with thumb catch, left foot obvious diagonal edge, Pull on, RF onto poor smear on arete, rock in and flick RH to undercut/pinch.
Frog LF up onto big smear on nose/break, LH up to big sloper/pinch high on arete,
right foot up to little slot above left foot and go for nubbin just below top with right hand.

You'll need a few pads.

I imagine the tall method for the last move would be to put right foot very high onto good edge, drop left foot off to sit on it, and go for the same nubbin with right hand. For the short this just locks you in too low.

Sit beta was to start on lump on right, get right hand into normal start hold, bounce left round to funny pinch in break, frog feet out to arete then bung left heel out onto good lump/ ramp. Left hand up onto stand start hold (slopey sidepull lump). Crux for me was to bring left heel off and onto normal start foothold, then you're into the stand.

No idea what Dan was playing at. No wonder he's left town.